Waistcoat for bespoke tuxedo

[Amdis]

So I'm having a 3 piece tuxedo made in midnight blue mohair. The jacket is one button with peak grosgrain lapels.

I don't know anything about waistcoats - if to go for a horseshoe waistcoat or a traditional waistcoat; if the bottom if the waistcoat should be flat or v shaped. Any suggestions?

 

[Anachronist]

Traditionally the waistcoat for a tuxedo would be a U-shaped (I believe this is the same as the horseshoe waistcoat you mention) and will be flat at the bottom to cover the trouser's waistband as no belt is worn (if at all, then braces).

 

[Amdis]

Thanks for the help.

I'm seeing conflicting advice online about the waistcoat though. Some guides say it should be tall enough to just peak out of the jacket when buttoned, other's say it shouldn't be seen when buttoned.

Also, should the U shaped waistcoat (paired with a peaked lapel jacket) have lapels itself? It's made of the same material as the jacket but I don't know if it should have grosgrain lapels like the jacket or no lapels at all.

 

[Stuart Midgley]

My tux, with U-shaped waistcoat, is coming back from my tailor on Saturday. I'll see if I can take some decent photos and you can decide for yourself if you like the shape.

I find the U-shape looks very good. There's a reason it was the classic standard.

 

[Anachronist]

Will you dance at the event you are planning to wear the tuxedo to? If yes, go with a U-shaped waistcoat as it allows for more ventilation and you don't get as hot in it as with higher buttoned ones. Whilst I have frequently seen people wear colorful, sometimes even patterned higher buttoned waistcoats with a tuxedo especially as wedding attire, I still think that the U-shaped waistcoat is the traditional and by far more elegant version to be worn with a tuxedo.