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W.W. Chan's New Website

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by JLibourel, Jul 1, 2010.

  1. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    I think you are off base on the pink one, particularly since it has no buttons

    +1
     


  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  3. George

    George Senior member

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    [​IMG] - B
    Ahhh.....a soft shoulder...
     


  4. Bounder

    Bounder Senior member

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    I disagree. There is certainly commonality: very lean overall (never any drape), medium-to-high buttoning points, a preference for closed quarters (unless you count 'really ugly open quarters' as a preference), moderate lapel width, medium-high-to-high gorge, moderately structured shoulders with very straight shoulder lines, moderate waist suppression. Overall, it's very nice. It's only bad when the quarters open up or the buttoning point climbs upward.
    I disagree with your disagreement. In the website pictures, they have everything from near-sack to near wasp-waisted. As you note, the quarters are all over the place. The lapels seem to vary a fair amount as well, though not as much as the quarters. I happen to know that Chan shoulders also vary considerably, though you can't really tell from the tiny pictures. I suppose, left to their own devices, they will produce a middle-of-the-road unoffensive, though unmemorable, suit. But I'm not sure that "blah" really counts as a house style. Chan's forte, and weakness, is that they are amazingly flexible -- probably more flexible than any Italian or SR house, bar none. The can do a credible job at almost anything, though not, obviously, up to the standards of some house that specializes in whatever look it is you want. I've never compared all three on this point, but I bet, for example, that they can do drape better than Huntsman but not as well as AS. I do know that they are happy to accomodate somewhat unusual requests -- requests that might get you ejected from a lot of other houses -- and that they do a very acceptable job of implementing them. All of this discussion as to whether Chan is as good as someone else is both beside the point and the ultimate testimonial. No, Chan does not do Rubinacci or Huntsman or whatever as well as Rubinacci or Huntsman does. But you can go to HK for a week, get measured and two or three fittings, and come back with a perfectly acceptable suit that you can wear with confidence anywhere, even a room full of Rubinacci or Huntsman. And all for a quarter of the price. So Chan can't do everything that Rubinacii does as well as Rubinacci. But Rubinacci doesn't do everything that Chan does as well as Chan, either.
     


  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    I disagree with your disagreement.

    I disagree with you disagreement with his disagreement.


    - B
     


  6. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    - B


    I think vox is dropping this hilarious doozy of a pic in each and every thread. Awesome.
     


  7. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    I disagree with your disagreement.

    In the website pictures, they have everything from near-sack to near wasp-waisted. As you note, the quarters are all over the place. The lapels seem to vary a fair amount as well, though not as much as the quarters. I happen to know that Chan shoulders also vary considerably, though you can't really tell from the tiny pictures.

    I suppose, left to their own devices, they will produce a middle-of-the-road unoffensive, though unmemorable, suit. But I'm not sure that "blah" really counts as a house style.

    Chan's forte, and weakness, is that they are amazingly flexible -- probably more flexible than any Italian or SR house, bar none. The can do a credible job at almost anything, though not, obviously, up to the standards of some house that specializes in whatever look it is you want. I've never compared all three on this point, but I bet, for example, that they can do drape better than Huntsman but not as well as AS. I do know that they are happy to accomodate somewhat unusual requests -- requests that might get you ejected from a lot of other houses -- and that they do a very acceptable job of implementing them.

    All of this discussion as to whether Chan is as good as someone else is both beside the point and the ultimate testimonial. No, Chan does not do Rubinacci or Huntsman or whatever as well as Rubinacci or Huntsman does. But you can go to HK for a week, get measured and two or three fittings, and come back with a perfectly acceptable suit that you can wear with confidence anywhere, even a room full of Rubinacci or Huntsman. And all for a quarter of the price.

    So Chan can't do everything that Rubinacii does as well as Rubinacci. But Rubinacci doesn't do everything that Chan does as well as Chan, either.


    +1. I would like mafoofan to provide a photo of a weak soft shoulder attempt from Chan. This would vindicate his claim that Chan's soft shoulder execution is unreliable and that they can only reliably do their house style well.
     


  8. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    +1. I would like mafoofan to provide a photo of a weak soft shoulder attempt from Chan. This would vindicate his claim that Chan's soft shoulder execution is unreliable and that they can only reliably do their house style well.

    I think Foo is right. The soft shoulders that I have seen from Chinese makers can be nice, but they are one rung or two down from SR and Italian softies.

    It doesn't make them crap, though...unless you put one against the other, only the most attentive and finicky ( [​IMG] ) would notice.

    I also suspect that sometimes there is too much focus on per-unit economy (i.e. this suit is less expensive that that suit) when a whole-wardobe approach might make more sense. Instead of three Chan, let's say, two SR, etc.


    - B
     


  9. George

    George Senior member

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    It doesn't make them crap, though...unless you put one against the other, only the most attentive and finicky ( [​IMG] ) would notice. - B
    ...
     


  10. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    +1

    Asking a tailor to deviate substantially from his house stlye will often lead to lackluster results.


    +1. Find the house style you like and tell the tailor to do his thing.
     


  11. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    +1. Find the house style you like and tell the tailor to do his thing.

    Btw I have to confess, the man in your avatar (Justice Ginsburg's husband) died this past week, and I didn't know that the avatar wasn't you.

    So I thought, "Oh shit, taxgenius was Ginsburg's hubbie, and he posted on SF! And...he's dead."

    But then I saw you were back to selling Tom Ford ties the next day and all was right with the world.

    Or you're selling Tom Ford ties from the grave.

    In either case, cool beans.
     


  12. taxgenius

    taxgenius Senior member

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    Btw I have to confess, the man in your avatar (Justice Ginsburg's husband) died this past week, and I didn't know that the avatar wasn't you.

    So I thought, "Oh shit, taxgenius was Ginsburg's hubbie, and he posted on SF! And...he's dead."

    But then I saw you were back to selling Tom Ford ties the next day and all was right with the world.

    Or you're selling Tom Ford ties from the grave.

    In either case, cool beans.


    [​IMG] Funny. Only one other poster ever mentioned to me that he knew who my avatar was. Now that makes two!
     


  13. Bull

    Bull Senior member

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    [​IMG] Funny. Only one other poster ever mentioned to me that he knew who my avatar was. Now that makes two!

    Full disclosure: I'm a lawyer.

    *sees SF'ers throwing eggs, tomatoes and peices of charcoal*

    *ducks*
     


  14. alebrady

    alebrady Senior member

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    i always find the forum rallying to the Chan defense as amusing. just like favorite posters, the forum clearly has its preferred tailors as well.
     


  15. sellahi22

    sellahi22 Senior member

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    I think Foo is right. The soft shoulders that I have seen from Chinese makers can be nice, but they are one rung or two down from SR and Italian softies. It doesn't make them crap, though...unless you put one against the other, only the most attentive and finicky ( [​IMG] ) would notice. I also suspect that sometimes there is too much focus on per-unit economy (i.e. this suit is less expensive that that suit) when a whole-wardobe approach might make more sense. Instead of three Chan, let's say, two SR, etc. - B
    Yeah I already acknowledged that for some of the more complex detailing, e.g. spalla camicia, you have to go to the expert tailors. I'm only talking about soft shoulders. The examples I've seen on this board have been quite good. I don't even think it's that hard to pull off. I have a BB suit (that I bought in college when I didn't know the first thing about suits) that has quite flattering soft shoulders. My issue is that my shoulders are fairly square and built up, and therefore a padded shoulder will make me look like a linebacker. BTW, the argument I'm having with Foo isn't that Chan's soft shoulders are as equal to or better than Steed's or Rubinacci's, but rather that it's not necessary to stick with Chan's "house style" of padded shoulders, when in fact they are happy to make soft shoulders, make them frequently, and the examples of soft shoulders posted on this board have been quite good. Also, I agree with your point about per-unit economy vs. whole wardrobe approach. My own approach is to buy workhorse business suits from Chan and then go to e.g. Rubinacci and get some indulgences (a linen suit, a grey flannel suit, a dinner jacket) and/or staples that I wear all the time (a couple of tweed jackets or navy blazers). Another reason for my using Chan early on in the process is that I can experiment and develop my tastes. I order get a suit in July, order another in November with some tweaks, and then order another in March with some more tweaks, and then by next May I'll have 3 workable suits plus a fine-tuned pattern from which I can continue to order workhorse suits at $1500-$1700 a pop.
     


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