1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 10: A full set of Aesop's Fables pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing

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    The 10th auction of the year is for a full set of Aesop's Fable's pocket squares from Vanda Fine Clothing. Please bid often and generously here

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W.w. chan & sons

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by vc2000, Oct 19, 2004.

  1. vc2000

    vc2000 Senior Member

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    Gentleman:

    I have already made my appointment for a USA fitting for W.W. Chan but today in the mail I received a promotional letter from them advertising their USA trip.  I was surprised by two things:

    Raymond Kiang has left the company per the letter "to pursue other tailoring ventures after serving out organization for 13 years."  Patrick Chu formerly Chief Cutter now promoted to GM of Hong Kong will represent WW Chan on the USA trip.  Have any of the members dealt with Patrick Chu?  What is Raymond Kiang doing now?

    Finally I noted that their advertised price for a suit has jumped by 15%.  (From $733 to $845)  This seems a fairly hefty hike?  Perhaps some of the members in the industry can comment.  Are fabric prices or materials increasing?  I wouldn't think that labor costs would be increasing at 15%?  I normally don't buy a suite at the advertised price as I add a second pair of pants and designer fabric which increases the price.  Perhaps WW Chan is target marketing me for a higher $ or all the great press on this forum have allowed them to increase prices? Even at the higher price a suit is still a deal.

    Regards
     


  2. FCS

    FCS Senior Member

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    Well, HKD is pegged to USD, and we all know what has happened to the Greenback wrt EUR recently.
     


  3. FCS

    FCS Senior Member

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    Still though, I thought they had access to (cheaper) skilled labours in Guang Dong.
     


  4. vc2000

    vc2000 Senior Member

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    Hmm I understand the move in the US dollar v. the Euro in Europe where WW Chan might be buying fabric but the exchange rate was actually worse 8 months ago when they advertised suits for $733 so.... Perhaps Hong Kong is coming back? I know that China has been growing at 10% but I thought labor rates were staying level.
     


  5. dah328

    dah328 Distinguished Member

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    I think a significant portion of the price change is due to the fabric.  Last time around it was Vitale Barberis Canonico Revenge 130's and this time it's Loro Piana.  Their special generally offers a different fabric during each of their trips.

    Also, Patrick fitted me for the tuxedo I had made at Chan while I was in Hong Kong.  I'm not too worried about his ability to take over for Raymond.

    Regards,

    dan
     


  6. Horace

    Horace Distinguished Member

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    I didn't know that WW Chan uses the tailors in GuangZhou (capital of Guang Dong province). Usually, the better tailors keep things in HK -- or at least that used to be the case.

    I think Sam's Tailor (popular with expats) moved some of their stuff -- or rather outsourced it to Guang Dong.

    But, unless I am mistaken (and please correct me if I am), the top-notch firms still do everything in HK.

    Whether this makes a difference or not, I don't know.

    I would imagine (a wild guess) that given the history of the mainland, that there can't be much of a tailoring tradition in the terms that we think of it. And I would think that quality control could be a concern.
     


  7. dah328

    dah328 Distinguished Member

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    I didn't tour their entire HK facility while I was there, but it was clear that there was a considerable amount of work done there. Clearly my tux was made entirely in HK as they delivered it in 10 days with 3 different fittings. If you have questions about their work, I'm sure they would be more than happy to address them: [email protected]
     


  8. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Distinguished Member

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    The price difference is because the special they are running is for Loro Piana Super 120s, as opposed to the VBC Super 130s. The VBC fabric was terrific to be sure, but after having felt a swatch of the Loro Piana, I can tell you without reservation that it is a better fabric (a bit more body IMO, such that it won't be as fine but will give a better visual texture and, probably, last longer). Both the VBC and the LP specials offer about 1/3 off normal price. Raymond Kiang was a nice guy, but Patrick is just a nice. He's been nothing but pleasant and prompt in my emails with him (and I sent some annoying emails trying to get the fit perfect [​IMG] ). He was master cutter prior to his new position, so I would think he'll be a fantastic measurer and will be even more knowledgeable about all thing cut. So long as you are assertive in telling what style suit you want (this includes shoulder cut, button stance, etc.), I absolutely recommend going to Chan. Even if you don't know what you want, the house style is very elegant and the quality of the suit is VERY high.
     


  9. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    I had one experience with Chan, in HK itself. We were discussing jacket style and I said, casually, that I wanted to look like the model he had on display (which did look quite sharp). The tailor looked a little startled, but they did indeed make that sort of jacket-- which makes me look like a gangster. VERY square and elongated shoulders. So make sure everyone knows what is up before starting. Quality was very good for the price, however, and one of these days I will ask him to copy an Anderson & Sheppard DB suit for summer. I'd bet that they would do a great job. One other little-known speciality of theirs-- they do cheongsams (the heavy silk brocade wrap dresses for ladies). If you ask, they might pry loose some of that silk for a waistcoat. They did one for me in royal blue/black, and except that it has 4 buttons (not 3 [​IMG] ) it is terrific.
     


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