W.W. Chan: Fabrics for Blazer

[JLibourel]

Calling all Chanfans: One of the two items I am going to be ordering from W.W. Chan when Patrick comes through next month is a 6x2 DB navy blazer. I am a little uncertain about fabrics. I note that the "special" fabric is Loro Piana Super 120. Many forum regulars seem to hold this fabric in low regard as being too delicate and insubstantial, and it seems better suited to a suit than a blazer in any event.

The two blazers Chan has made for me have been from VBC Super 130, which Patrick recommended to me. I have had no problems with them so far, but I have only had the blazers for a year and six months, respectively.

Of the fabrics regularly carried by Chan, would VBC Super 130 be my best bet for all-year wear in Southern California, or does anyone have any better ideas? I would not be averse to going to a higher quality fabric, but I'd kind of like to keep the price of the completed garment under about $800. Any suggestions?

 

[Vintage Gent]

Jan, I just took delivery on a SB navy blazer from Chan, and I ended up choosing the VBC 120 in 10oz. Price was around $700.

 

[retronotmetro]

I have a navy 120s VBC suit from Chan that has had one dry cleaning and about 50-60 wearings on it. No snags or shine anywhere, and it makes a very good year-round cloth in LA. With the exception of really hot days, that is. To wander off on a tangent, in my current job I walk a lot more during the day than I used to, and have been considering whether to order all of my suits (except flannels or heavy winter cloths) with skeleton-lined coats.

Compared to the Clayton 150s suits I have, the VBC materials tend to have a bit rougher hand but a nicer drape, especially noticed in the trousers.

The nicest material I have used for my Chan orders is the Scabal 120s and cashmere blend, but that one caused a serious wound to my wallet.

 

[Vintage Gent]

Originally Posted by retronotmetro

Compared to the Clayton 150s suits I have, the VBC materials tend to have a bit rougher hand but a nicer drape, especially noticed in the trousers.

Agreed. I have Chan suits in both the Clayton and the VBC, and the VBC has the kind of "surface interest" that works better with a blazer.

 

[itsstillmatt]

I don't know what Chan stocks, but a hopsack is nice for a blue blazer and will wear quite nicely in California.

 

[JLibourel]

Thanks for the information, gentlemen. Is there much difference between the VBC Super 120 fabric and the VBC Super 130 which Patrick recommended for my blue blazer? It was the only fabric available in green for my green blazer. I really have no complaints with the latter so far.

 

[retronotmetro]

I find that the super number is less relevant than the weight. I think that with the VBCs there are some variations in gram weight among the same group, such that you may find a 130s that feels heavier and a touch rougher than some of the 120s, the difference being that the 130s might be 10 or 20g heavier than the 120s.

I've had plenty of garments made from VBC (both custom and OTR) and have always been pretty happy with them. The only ones I've ever had a problem with are the ones with a more open weave. Those tend to go shiny faster than one would expect, unfortunately.

 

[Girardian]

He has an amazing VBC Super 160s that must be a 2 by 2 weave that I saw when I was there. Big bucks but a brilliant drape (I saw it in a completed jacket), very soft hand, and it *didn't* wrinkle when bunched up. Patrick himself was impressed and surprised by the fabric. If it were less dear and I had seen it before I picked mine (VCB 130s) I would have gone with that one -- even though I would normally not consider Super 160s (a little impractical).

 

[whoopee]

I recommend the Holland & Sherry 12 oz. blue fresco, or the 9.5 oz mohair/wool bright navy or navy if you run warm. You can also try to source your own cloth.