Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Beardman, Jun 11, 2012.
I may have something to report on a new tux in the near future. No Chan; a new experiment.
I have a dinner suit in a superb 50mohair-50wool blend from Ariston, very light (220-230g), breathes beautifully, and wonderful at resisting creases, I'm not sure if Chan has that book but if yet do its worth a look into - Summer Uniti book iirc.
Other than that all I really have to add is that despite what Lee says under certain artificial lighting conditions, especially light with a yellow cast, midnight blue will look black.
The only real problem with midnight blue IMO is that the lapel facings are hard to match - midnight blue grosgrain or satin is not easy to find.
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I thought it was common to still do black facings with a midnight blue tux?
Either is fine, except for the fact that black is safe and midnight blue facings can go wrong if you select poorly.
Thanks to all. I'm seeing Patrick from WW Chan in New York on July 16 and I'll report then on what he talks me into (and out of).
Right now, I'm traveling so I only have the suit I'm wearing with me. But I'll be home this weekend and will take some photos to share. My choices have been quite conservative, since I mostly hobnob with bankers, lawyers, government types and other similarly boring people. So you'll see that the Chan suits are orthodox double-vented notch-lapel SBs with level flap pockets (my only indulgence on some of the suits were colorful linings). I'll also try to post a few other things from Chan -- a quarter-lined navy Fresco blazer, a Donegal odd jacket, and a cashmere topcoat.
BTW, in the not-recent past, I did a few suits and a blazer with Benson & Clegg. In retrospect, I think Ken Austin plunged my lapels a little too low in an attempt to make me look longer and leaner. I think the Chan suits and jackets have better vertical balance.
A little story and a question: a few years later I lost weight and needed to have the Benson & Clegg suits altered. I didn't want to hassle going to London or waiting for Ken to visit the States. Since I live in Philadelphia, I went to Joseph Centofanti in Ardmore to do the work. Centofanti spotted the quality of the suits from twenty paces, which was cool. Interestingly, Joe's alterations left lots of extra lining visibly wrinkling on the inside of the jackets. I didn't ask him about it, since I didn't pick up the suits in person afterwards. I assumed this was done intentionally, so as to enable undoing the work if/when I would gain the weight back. Or am I wrong?
Vertically along the center back seam?
I don't remember. I'll look when I get home and let you know.
Looking forward to hearing updates!
Nothing to report until July 10, when I see WW Chan in New York to place my order. So far, the dinner suit fabrics I'm considering are Scabal Festival 852054, a midnight blue barathea which I've seen, and these, which I've only heard about and don't know much about:
H. Lesser midnight blue barathea in the No. 312 Formal Wear line
Thos Fisher Cape Breeze (70% 8 oz Super 100 + 30% kid mohair) midnight blue
Dugdale Brothers 11 oz midnight blue
Any suggestions or insight on these or other fabric choices? I usually go into my meetings with Chan well-briefed on fabrics rather than sit and only then begin to pore over books, even though Patrick and his assistants are usually quite willing to explore fabrics with me. (They will sometimes gently try to offer alternatives to my requests -- for example, once I wanted Golden Bale and Patrick said it was hard to get in HK from his distributor and would result in a very long wait. I took their advice in that instance.)
BTW, I'm also doing a navy herringbone business suit. Since I have easy access to the Scabal online catalogue, I'm looking at Riverside 751905, and Royal 702635, 702636 and 702637.
The 702636 is a vibrant dark blue, the others are all dark navy. Somewhere once I was told that the narrower the herringbone, the more refined the look. Do you all agree? Any other suggestions for fabric choices from other houses? (Super 120 and below, please. I wear these suits for work, travel extensively, and am not a Russian kleptocrat, so I can't replace garments every few months.)
The center back seam of the lining is an open pleat. The pleat edge shifts and distorts from wear, usually opens due to expanding from movement. Many tailors don't resize the pleat after reducing a jacket and it can look sloppy but it's normal to look loose. It can be resized if necessary.
Here's an update. I finally sat with Patrick yesterday in New York. We settled on:
Scabal Festival 852054 midnight blue barathea at 280 grams (I was considering others, too, but they all were heavier cloths, and I will always be indoors in civilized countries with interior climate control, and I may even be forced to step onto the dance floor once or thrice)
Peaked lapels in black grosgrain, single button, double vents (I put my hands in my pockets), besom pockets with grosgrain piping, purple lining (as befitting my royal ego), inside breast/pen/phone pockets, grosgrain covered sleeve and front buttons
Uncuffed trousers with black grosprain stripe, side tabs (no loops), side pockets on the seam, normal rear pockets (usable handkerchief and my *$#!@ wallet)
U-shaped waistcoat, black grosgrain shawl lapels, three buttons, inside lining same purple, outside lining in back matches midnight blue
I also ordered an ordinary suit in a nice, small, navy herringbone: Scabal Triple A 752178, which is a 320 g Super 120 withs 2% cashmere. I've had a couple of suits before in this range and they seem to drape and wear well. I came in thinking something from Scabal's Riverside book, but Patrick talked me into this instead.
I should have both sometime in October.
Oh, and the bottom front of the waistcoat is finished in points, which Patrick and I both think is slimming.
Would not get shawl lapels on the vest. Just don't.
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