W. Bill Tweed from Hemrajani (mytailor)

[papertiger26]

I am looking to get a tweed odd jacket made up next, as I have a relatively well built up suit wardrobe (what I wear every day for work), but have not needed spot coats and thus neglected them. I currently have a classic blazer and a brown herringbone with a light orange and rust overcheck. I have a tan linen coat that goes with a summer suit that can be used in a pinch as well, but not ideal. Perhaps it is not realistic, but I feel that the various color notes that tweeds provide will give it some versatility and look at home equally over light grey flannels and chinos alike, and something that can be used from late fall through early spring. I was looking at the fabric below and looking for any thoughts and guidance. Looking forward to your thoughts and any suggestions for things I may be missing.

 

[OlSarge]

All three are fine, by me. I prefer the top with the hint of orange in it but that's neither here nor there. However, you need to be aware that Joe has a lot more tweeds than W. Bill available. The fabrics on the website are merely a teaser. Going into their HQ in Costa Mesa is fabric overload. If you live anywhere in SoCal, you really need to visit them before committing to one particular suiting.

 

[papertiger26]

Thanks, OlSarge. I know Joe has an abundance of fabrics, but I am in OH, so giving the associate that travels here (Ram) an idea of a fabric and book I would like to see and request he bring similar stuff is usually my best bet at getting a good selection as they do not carry every book with them for obvious reasons.

My inclination toward W. Bill is based simply on the fairly high praise it receives and the fact that I am lookin for something that really does look, feel and wear as a true tweed. If you have suggestions for other books I should request them to bring I am all ears. Thanks again.

 

[emptym]

I have a couple herringbone tweeds from WB, I think in 14 or 15 oz. Both machine woven. I think they're great.

 

[JLibourel]

Frankly, all three of those tweeds looks a bit boring to me. I know that Hemrajani has many more interesting tweeds among his options.

 

[papertiger26]

Are there specific books I should request? I am aware of some of the bigger names, but am happy to expand my horizons.

 

[OlSarge]

Well, there's Dormieul naturally, and Porter & Harding have herringbones to die for. The P&H are listed on the website but to look at the Dormieul (however it's spelled!) you'd have to be there in person. Of course, if you will be meeting Joe for measuring and to place the order, email them and have him bring up all the tweed books he has. That will have two effects. 1) It will keep you out of trouble for an entire afternoon. 2) You will get an idea of just how many fabulous tweeds there are.

Now one more thing. Jodek International, which is based in Beverly Hills, is the sole importer of Breanish's wonderful, part cashmere Harris tweed. MyTailor is supposed to be getting their sample book for this fall's orders. If he has it by the time you talk to him do not fail to look it over. You will swoon. You will spend too much money. You will look fabulous and all the women will hang on you.

 

[papertiger26]

Looking more for a solid or barleycorn, but it is obviously difficult to get a good feel for how these look from online samples. I reached out to the representative that comes to these parts hoping he will bring a variety to choose from. The part cashmere Harris Tweed sounds great, but I think that will be stretching it for me from a cost stand point. I don't wear sport coats enough to justify paying the equivalent of what I would normally spend on a suit I can put into my regular rotation.

 

[OlSarge]

Not having the foresight to know that I would be in the position to be attempting advice, I didn't write down the names of the books I drooled over. Sorry. Just tell Ram what you want. He'll know to bring the right books.