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Voxsartoria's Weekly WAYWRN Subjective and Totally Unfair Digest

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by voxsartoria, Feb 13, 2009.

  1. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    As you recall, the Eloi first serve as food for the Morlocks, and then devolve over time into plant eaters who hop...much like, uhm, rabbits. Then, they are snuffed out by creatures that look like giant centipedes. Good times. - B
    Trained to react to the smell of fresco [​IMG]
     
  2. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    I like, FNB, the idea that the 30's was "the first time there was a dynamic international exchange of styles, fabrics, colors" but why then, during a great downturn in international trade? By the way, eg1, I think the Brits get Morlocks, Americans get zombies: [​IMG]
    Well, the people depicted were living the good life and images of that were the narcotics of the thirties. That and retailers had to compete for fewer dollars. There were a lot of fads in the thirties that didnt exist in the 1920s; Alpine/Tyrolean culture, South American, Moroccan, even Chinese. Some of them were a result of ocean going tourists returning with trinkets, others were in sympathy such as with China engulfed by a rising sun.
     
  3. binge

    binge Senior member

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    Well, the people depicted were living the good life and images of that were the narcotics of the thirties.

    Umm..narcotics were the narcotics of the thirties...
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    And I think that fundamentalness is all in the mind- not yours, but in the thinkers of the last couple of decades.

    At least I'd like to argue it- objectively, the most radical changes to the world happened in the first half of the 20th Century, not the second. Postmodernism might be a reaction to those changes, but it wasn't the cause of them. To make a caricature of it: Modernism as the single guiding idea of (my version of) the upper class died in the fires of WWI and WWII, not the heat of Vietnam or the Cold War.


    I think there is a difference between sociopolitical change and intellectual change. They don't always match up, and great magnitude in one doesn't necessarily correlate with great magnitude in the other. Confusing the two, well, confuses things. Postmodernism may have arisen in tandem with less traumatic or significant sociopolitical changes than those that preceded it, but I would argue that its effect on popular intellectual thought has nonetheless been profound.

    Anyway, regardless of the historical significance of postmodernism, it is undoubtedly the dominant form of intellectual analysis in the West today. Every major American university is testament to that. And Fuuma. [​IMG]
     
  5. RyJ Maduro

    RyJ Maduro Senior member

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    Maybe a turquoise Dupioni, or Goering powder-blue.

    As in, Hermann? You're thinking Feldblau.
     
  6. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    I wouldnt do a mohair blazer a duppioni silk one would be very stylish. Umm, err, I wonder if Scabal or Dormeuil dont carry something like this, give em a call. They may not sell toy uo directly but theyll check for you. Holland and Sherry do a very nice navy duppioni in their formal book, too dark for your needs but still very nice.

    You might want to wait for Harrison's Sunbeam which wont look a thing like silk but will be a great summer blazer fabric.


    Scabal sent me their dupioni samples, and the only blue was a navy. I'll keep an eye out for the Sunbeam. Thanks.

    --Andre
     
  7. eg1

    eg1 Senior member

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    By the way, eg1, I think the Brits get Morlocks, Americans get zombies: [​IMG]


    Could be -- I suppose we Canuckistanis, being neither fish nor fowl, must get our own nemesis -- giant, subterranean, undead beavers, perhaps? [​IMG]
     
  8. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    Scabal sent me their dupioni samples, and the only blue was a navy. I'll keep an eye out for the Sunbeam. Thanks. --Andre
    Hmm, I like a challenge. Let me see if I can track down this make of silk for you. The colors were incredible. I might even get some for a bright blue jacket myself.
     
  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    An abbreviated cross-post from WAYWRN today, just to muse over the last full-scale attempt to bring a bit of Apparel Arts into modern reality: Ralph Lauren's Purple Label line at its inception.

    Faux Apparel Arts Tuesday:

    At work one day this week for meetings.

    [​IMG]

    Ralph Lauren Purple Label (by Chester Barrie) wool and cashmere 3 roll 2 flannel chalk stripe suit (c.1995 from the first season of RLPL)

    Closeup of the jacket:

    [​IMG]

    When RLPL was created, it was a big Ralph Lauren FU to the Italian RTW houses, particularly Armani. (Tom Ford is attempting to do the same now at a much lower level of impact.) The looks from the first few years, executed for him by the defunct Chester Barrie, borrowed heavily from 1930s Apparel Arts and, imho, Blades of Savile Row. Shoulders were often heavily padded and extended. There was often a slight bit of drape to the chest. Waists were nipped. Trousers were full. And in the first few years, RL seemed to spare no expense in the fabrics. RLPL reinvigorated RL as a RTW brand that could make some claims on a luxury product, an area in which RL had previously be faltering.

    What we see today, of course, is heavily Italianized RLPL, with much of that unabashed Anglo-American design verve stunted. I sometimes read comments that Anglo-American style is sober and Italian more exuberant...but I think that the reverse was true for most of the past.


    - B
     
  10. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Voxsartoria's Weekly WAYWRN Subjective and Totally Unfair Digest for the week ending 02/20/09.

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    We end the week strongly with my favorite, another Agnelli inspiration look just like last week:

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    Even though we should deduct for the plastic cup, we won't.


    - B
     
  11. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    You should start a new thread.
     
  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    You should start a new thread.

    What should I call it? Voxsartoria's Weekly WAYWRN Subjective and Totally Unfair Digest II?


    - B
     
  13. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Sure- or just post "for the week of"
     
  14. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Sure- or just post "for the week of"

    Too much work.

    - B
     
  15. Fuuma

    Fuuma Senior member

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    Baron has a stache now, wow!
     
  16. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Too much work.

    - B


    Lay-zee
     
  17. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Lay-zee

    I can barely type.


    - B
     
  18. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I can barely type.


    - B


    You do fine.
     
  19. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Vox, this thread has jumped the shark. Your attempt to return it to its roots will be unavailing.
     
  20. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Vox, this thread has jumped the shark. Your attempt to return it to its roots will be unavailing.

    Next week will feature not only another update, but also the first edition of the monthly WAYWRN Looks Gone Wrong: Photographs Cropped to Protect the Guiltyâ„¢ post.

    - B
     

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