Vittoria Fluido - camiciaia Napoletana - (a Neapolitan shirtmaker) EDITED title

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by marcodalondra, Jun 29, 2013.

  1. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Hi Rafael,

    I think if you want to just copying existing shirts at a low cost would not be worth it to send this type of commission to an Asian operation?

    I say this all the time, the reason to choose a bespoke shirtmaker is for their ability to fit your body and Cut therefore a great pattern.

    Regarding shirting in London, I have only come across Joel fabric in Edgware Road, just outside the Bakerloo Underground station. They have the Sic Tess books to order cuts from and some rolls in stock. Otherwise, you would be surprised that most shirtmakers in Jermyn streets will also sell fabrics to individuals (mostly from Albini group brands and Acorn; Acorn can be also bough directly from their website).



    Ciao
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2013


  2. Rafael44

    Rafael44 Member

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    Hi Marco,
    You make a good point, of course it makes sense to have a shirt copied more cheaply as a MTM in a factory (especially in the far east) than to have it done with a proper hand made bespoke.
    Problem is, that the factory MTM shirts are really expensive these days, I see prices of more that $150 and up. So VITTORIA FLUIDO at EUR100 + cloth seems like good value next to that, no ?
    I'm not sure why factory MTM is so expensive.

    My only reservation with Asian tailors (HK tailors) is that the quality isn't anywhere near as nice as Italian made shirts (just my personal experience) so If anyone can find a good Italian shirt factory that would copy existing shirts, or even a highly recommended HK factory I would be happy to try. But again, if prices aren't much better than Vittoria does it make sense to go down the factory route ?
    Thx, Rafael
     


  3. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Just returned from picking up my first shirt from Vittoria. It is a soft Italian linen, loads of hand work. Pretty nice so far.
    I'd like to wash and wear a few times before I offer any further opinions.

    Here are some pics:
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    ^^ Anna, Victoria's assistant.

    Sorry- it's rainy here today and not much light coming in the window, so the pictures are a little dark.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I requested unfused collar and cuffs. This will be for hot Florida weather so I wanted soft and airy.


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    I need a macro lens!


    Switched to my little Canon Elf from 2004. Much better Macro!
    [​IMG]
    ^ MOP button, hand attached
    [​IMG]
    ^Collar hand-attached
    [​IMG]
    ^ Inside view of sleeve head - hand attached
    [​IMG]
    ^ Gauntlet button and bar tack
    [​IMG]
    ^Grosgrain reinforcement on gusset.


    This shirt is the model with the most hand-sewn bits. She offers machine made, 4 hand-sewn steps, and 14 hand-sewn steps.

    My wife is having a shirt made as well with some Carlo Riva I bought.

    My friend had a shirt done too, perhaps he can post a few pics too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014


  4. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Nice - pls let us know your impressions once you've worn the shirt a bit.
     


  5. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Will do GC. I ordered 2 more shirts for next month as well, these ones will be normal, cotton, fused collars, etc, so I'll have updates on those too.
     


  6. BWV988

    BWV988 Senior member

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    I'm loving mine so far. It's headed for the wash cycle now, so we'll see how much it shrinks. Fit pics after that, but here are some close-ups of the shirt turned inside-out.

    One nice aesthetic touch that I noticed was the inside of the sleeve placket. I'm new to tailored shirts, so I'm not sure how common this is or what it's called:

    [​IMG]



    Compare that to another shirt showing what I consider a more typical placket construction:

    [​IMG]

    Too bad this will never be seen by anyone, not even myself when I'm wearing it.



    Crow's foot stitching:

    [​IMG]



    I paid for completely machine-made, but it looks like there's still handwork where the sleeves attach. Perhaps that's an obligatory sort of thing, as handwork here is actually functional:

    [​IMG]



    Stitching along the shoulder (again, shirt turned inside-out):

    [​IMG]
     


  7. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    Very nice. So on the completely made by machine model you still get the "giromanica" felled by hand? I wanted to order a sort of safari shirts, short sleeves, for my next holidays, and was thinking to order them fully machine made.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014


  8. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Nice close-ups. My camera sucks up close.
     


  9. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Added some more pics, used my little Canon- much better macro.
     


  10. BWV988

    BWV988 Senior member

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    I'm not sure what her usual practice is, but I definitely only paid for completely made by machine and got what you see here.
     


  11. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    . Thanks good to know
     


  12. PSNY

    PSNY Senior member

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    Has anyone recently gotten shirts made by her? Has she expanded her operation? Does she stock fabrics? What are current prices?
     


  13. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

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    I spoke to her recently has I wanted to check availability for few summer casual shirts. She has a dedicated workshop now, a walking distance from her home in the centre of a town call Casoria (5-10 minutes drive from Capodichino Naples airport), but I think she still only meet clients upon appointments. She may carry very few shirting but have some comprehensive option on fabric books. I have only used her as CMT so did not really bother going through these books. Not sure about latest pricing, sorry.
     


  14. PSNY

    PSNY Senior member

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    Great, thank you for the response! I bookmarked her website.
     


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