1. And... we're back. You'll notice that all of your images are back as well, as are our beloved emoticons, including the infamous :foo: We have also worked with our server folks and developers to fix the issues that were slowing down the site.

    There is still work to be done - the images in existing sigs are not yet linked, for example, and we are working on a way to get the images to load faster - which will improve the performance of the site, especially on the pages with a ton of images, and we will continue to work diligently on that and keep you updated.

    Cheers,

    Fok on behalf of the entire Styleforum team
    Dismiss Notice

Vittoria Fluido - camiciaia Napoletana - (a Neapolitan shirtmaker) EDITED title

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by marcodalondra, Jun 29, 2013.

  1. comrade

    comrade Senior member

    Messages:
    5,875
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    Yes. it is. Could it be a more subtle instance of sprezzatura?
     
  2. EliodA

    EliodA Senior member

    Messages:
    3,762
    Joined:
    Apr 6, 2013
    Location:
    Jakarta, Indonesia
    Maybe it is, but personally I would be less than pleased that the fabric on the collar isn't aligned symmetrically, for instance...
     
  3. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

    Messages:
    1,128
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    I
    this is not a jacket or has pockets to match, the panels are well aligned but the overlapping "squares" are slightly enlarged. It looks ok to me that way considering the absence of front placket. The pattern was indeed challenging by itself, also considering the short time available I asked to complete the shirt in, and for the fact this was a 90cm wide fabric, which she commented looked cut to 90cm (selvedge is only on one side, oddly) and made it challenging to cut the pieces from.

    As I said I am still "studying" the shirt, and EliodA thanks for spotting the collar asymmetry, as had not yet noticed myself. Will ask her to re-cut and swap the collars when I am next in Naples.

    Yasu, she is home based, so normally people will bring in the fabrics, although she mentioned to hold some cuts there (I guess basic pattern/colours). Do not believe she speak English (T4 may know more) but her son was there and he is studying languages and wishes to move to London, so I guess he can help the process, and as I understand will answer email enquiries in English.
     
  4. mactire

    mactire Senior member

    Messages:
    367
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2011

    Do you have her email address? I'm with you on the pattern matching, fit is the most important consideration in bespoke.
     
  5. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    Marco-
    Is this the same Vittoria as the lady near Piazza Trieste e Trento? Bounanno uses her and she is recommended by a few folks I have talked to in Napoli.
    I'm taking a piece of Riva to her next month sometime.

    Camiceria Vittoria Di Francesca Smorra
    Via Carlo de Cesare, 18

    Thanks
     
  6. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

    Messages:
    1,128
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    No, Vittoria Fluido works from home. I have heard mix reviews about Camiceria Vittoria.
     
  7. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    OK, thanks. Could you send me contact info for this Vittoria?
    What is your final analysis of Fluido's work?
     
  8. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

    Messages:
    1,128
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    She cut a nice fitting shirt. My first shirt was delivered in less then a week (special request) and in hindsight was too a short time, so i would give it enough time. I have not yet been able to return to have the collar re-cut but she has actually contacted me few times asking when I can visit her or send the shirt to get it fixed. Will send you a PM.
     
  9. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    OK- thanks Marco.

    I went over to Via Duomo yesterday and stopped in at Cacciopoli. Sadly I got there late and they were closing up, so I will have to make the trip back down. It's a sucky walk from Chiaia.
     
  10. Rafael44

    Rafael44 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Hi, Thanks for the blog.
    I'm quite interested in having something made with her, at 100EUR its sounds really reasonable.
    I'm based in London and have no interest in making the trip to Naples though. Do you think it would be possible to send over an old shirt (bespoke) for her to copy ? With some shirting of course.
    Secondly, does anyone know where to buy some good shirting in London ?
    Thanks,
     
  11. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

    Messages:
    1,128
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    Hi Rafael,

    I think if you want to just copying existing shirts at a low cost would not be worth it to send this type of commission to an Asian operation?

    I say this all the time, the reason to choose a bespoke shirtmaker is for their ability to fit your body and Cut therefore a great pattern.

    Regarding shirting in London, I have only come across Joel fabric in Edgware Road, just outside the Bakerloo Underground station. They have the Sic Tess books to order cuts from and some rolls in stock. Otherwise, you would be surprised that most shirtmakers in Jermyn streets will also sell fabrics to individuals (mostly from Albini group brands and Acorn; Acorn can be also bough directly from their website).



    Ciao
     
    Last edited: Dec 29, 2013
  12. Rafael44

    Rafael44 Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2013
    Hi Marco,
    You make a good point, of course it makes sense to have a shirt copied more cheaply as a MTM in a factory (especially in the far east) than to have it done with a proper hand made bespoke.
    Problem is, that the factory MTM shirts are really expensive these days, I see prices of more that $150 and up. So VITTORIA FLUIDO at EUR100 + cloth seems like good value next to that, no ?
    I'm not sure why factory MTM is so expensive.

    My only reservation with Asian tailors (HK tailors) is that the quality isn't anywhere near as nice as Italian made shirts (just my personal experience) so If anyone can find a good Italian shirt factory that would copy existing shirts, or even a highly recommended HK factory I would be happy to try. But again, if prices aren't much better than Vittoria does it make sense to go down the factory route ?
    Thx, Rafael
     
  13. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    Just returned from picking up my first shirt from Vittoria. It is a soft Italian linen, loads of hand work. Pretty nice so far.
    I'd like to wash and wear a few times before I offer any further opinions.

    Here are some pics:
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    [​IMG][​IMG]
    ^^ Anna, Victoria's assistant.

    Sorry- it's rainy here today and not much light coming in the window, so the pictures are a little dark.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I requested unfused collar and cuffs. This will be for hot Florida weather so I wanted soft and airy.


    [​IMG][​IMG]
    I need a macro lens!


    Switched to my little Canon Elf from 2004. Much better Macro!
    [​IMG]
    ^ MOP button, hand attached
    [​IMG]
    ^Collar hand-attached
    [​IMG]
    ^ Inside view of sleeve head - hand attached
    [​IMG]
    ^ Gauntlet button and bar tack
    [​IMG]
    ^Grosgrain reinforcement on gusset.


    This shirt is the model with the most hand-sewn bits. She offers machine made, 4 hand-sewn steps, and 14 hand-sewn steps.

    My wife is having a shirt made as well with some Carlo Riva I bought.

    My friend had a shirt done too, perhaps he can post a few pics too.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  14. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

    Messages:
    1,813
    Joined:
    Dec 17, 2007
    Location:
    Hong Kong / Darien
    Nice - pls let us know your impressions once you've worn the shirt a bit.
     
  15. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    Will do GC. I ordered 2 more shirts for next month as well, these ones will be normal, cotton, fused collars, etc, so I'll have updates on those too.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. BWV988

    BWV988 Senior member

    Messages:
    134
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    I'm loving mine so far. It's headed for the wash cycle now, so we'll see how much it shrinks. Fit pics after that, but here are some close-ups of the shirt turned inside-out.

    One nice aesthetic touch that I noticed was the inside of the sleeve placket. I'm new to tailored shirts, so I'm not sure how common this is or what it's called:

    [​IMG]



    Compare that to another shirt showing what I consider a more typical placket construction:

    [​IMG]

    Too bad this will never be seen by anyone, not even myself when I'm wearing it.



    Crow's foot stitching:

    [​IMG]



    I paid for completely machine-made, but it looks like there's still handwork where the sleeves attach. Perhaps that's an obligatory sort of thing, as handwork here is actually functional:

    [​IMG]



    Stitching along the shoulder (again, shirt turned inside-out):

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Senior member

    Messages:
    1,128
    Joined:
    Nov 15, 2007
    Very nice. So on the completely made by machine model you still get the "giromanica" felled by hand? I wanted to order a sort of safari shirts, short sleeves, for my next holidays, and was thinking to order them fully machine made.
     
    Last edited: Jan 20, 2014
    1 person likes this.
  18. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    Nice close-ups. My camera sucks up close.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

    Messages:
    667
    Joined:
    Dec 30, 2012
    Location:
    Florida, unfortunately
    Added some more pics, used my little Canon- much better macro.
     
  20. BWV988

    BWV988 Senior member

    Messages:
    134
    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2013
    I'm not sure what her usual practice is, but I definitely only paid for completely made by machine and got what you see here.
     
    1 person likes this.

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by