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Vitale Barberis Cahttp://www.vitalebarberiscnonico

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Millerp, Mar 18, 2005.

  1. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    It's not low quality cloth by any means. Lisapop was just noting that it isn't Lessor/Barbera quality. I think VBC is great -- it has a nice hand, they have some great patterns, its got a pretty tight weave, and I haven't noticed any flaws in the fabric I have. VBC doesn't hype itself, or charge, like Loro Piana. I think that's the real gripe here -- that Loro Piana prices itself consistent with the higher quality English fabrics and its really just a charade that is built upon their very high quality cashmere and LPs penchant for buying the finest bundles of Tasmanian wool for publicity purposes.
     
  2. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    Guys, VBC cloth is perfectly fine cloth for your purposes with Chan or another tailor.  My tailor in NY, who gets upwards of $4K for a suit, has VBC swatch books at his shop.  When I originally posted it is "inferior", the context of that perhaps glib judgement was in comparison to Lesser, which to me is among the very best.  Still, being down a few notches from the best ain't bad.  It's all relative. Ask a Ferrari owner about Maserati and he'll scoff. Still, I wouldn't mind having a Maserati,which is generally less expensive than its cousin. And, truth be told, a case can be made that Lesser cloth, which can cost as much as a Chan suit itself, might be overkill, with VBC cloth being more appropriate.  I just happen to put my clothes through the paces each day and so the added strength of a "2x2" cloth is more durable for my purposes.  Also, candidly, I'm older than many of you, and you're way ahead of where I was at your ages, so a custom Chan suit, or one from another moderately-priced tailor, using VBC cloth is something I was just dreaming about back then.    Wear your VBC suits with pride.      
    Grayson
     
  3. johnnynorman3

    johnnynorman3 Senior member

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    May I ask the obvious question at this point:

    How the hell did Mr. Grayson get banned? Is he not the kindest, most learned gentleman on this board?

    I would like to toast the return of Mr. Grayson to our Forum.
     
  4. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    Thanks, but, truth be told, I should have been banned. Trying for a little redemption now [​IMG] Grayson
     
  5. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    I might add quickly that my tailor in NY, whose impeccable taste in cloth and vast experience in tailoring I greatly admire, has access to literally dozens of cloth companies, but due to the constraints of space in New York, combined with the demands of a selective clientele, and, finally, a price point that commands only the finest cloth, he has edited out all but the best names in cloth.  The fact that VBC passes muster with him, among just a small handful of other resources, is indicative of VBC's quality.  That some of their cloth has one fewer strand in a 2x1 weave configuration vs. a 2x2 weave is so esoteric and far afield for normal, everyday use that the vast majority of people should not be concerned about it.  It's an issue more of relevance to someone in the textile sciences.  
    Grayson
     
  6. NBankston

    NBankston Member

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    I second your toast.
     
  7. Alias

    Alias Senior member

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    It is a long, sordid tale best left to the Ask Andy archives.

    Anyways, I'm sitting here bored at work, trying to untwist fibers off a cloth sample. I'm not getting anywhere. All I'm getting are thick yarns of wool, one going lengthwise, and one going widthwise. But this is pretty lightweight fabric, so I'm guessing that maybe with heavier fabrics it will be easier to tell the whole 2x1, 2x2 thing.
     
  8. Smooth Jazz

    Smooth Jazz Well-Known Member

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    Nov 9, 2004
    Couldn't agree more on the Carlo Barbera/Lesser range. I recently took delivery of a suit in that fabric that I had ordered four months back. It is far and away my favorite fabric for suits. Unfortunately, they do not have many designs left in that range.
     
  9. lisapop

    lisapop Senior member

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    Enjoy your Carlo Barbera suit. Reflective of the prestige and exceptional quality behind the Carlo Barbera name is the fact that H. Lesser and Sons have made the *exception* of disclosing and, indeed, promoting, Carlo Barbera as the source of that range of cloth. As a distributor, Lesser's don't normally disclose the names of their sources of cloth. Another exceptional range distributed by Lesser's (Reid & Taylor, as well) is the Golden Bale cloth from Joseph Lumb. Makes up a nice blazer. Closely approximates the softness of cashmere without the drawbacks.
    Grayson
     
  10. clothman

    clothman Member

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    Sep 21, 2011

    There are a respectable mill in the industry and a big contender but they tend to be overpowered by the likes of Zegna and Lora Piana. Stay away from merchants like Scabal, Dormeuil and Holland and Sherry as they don't weave cloth and just buy and raise the prices. Go direct to a mill like William Halstead www.williamhalstead.co.uk as their prices will be cheaper and the quality the same. Vitale Barbaris copy William Halstead mohair cloths because they are superior. The Owner of Barbaris said he prefers Halstead Mohair to his own at a fabric show in Milan Fbebruary 2011. Barbaris make a good 130's cloth but there is also another English mill called John Foster who run bunches in most qualities and even Charles Clayton for your super luxury cloths.
    It comes down to whether or not you want to buy British or Italian. I would say being British to buy Made in England cloth. Either will be a very good quality suit.
     

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