*** Visvim thread: Dissertation on a Japanese Holy Spirit ***

[Hanto]

A hand stitched goodyear welt is an oxymoron. A goodyear welt is done by a machine that was invented by a guy named Goodyear. That's the whole point.

Oh, and no way Visvim is doing hand welted welts.

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[hoodog]

?

I stand corrected. Seems as though, in that video, they are doing hand welts. I am not persuaded that they do it in general stock footwear though.

Anyway, thats still not a goodyear welt, it's a hand sewn welt.

 

[hoodog]

Seems like this has been up for debate before:

*** Visvim thread: Dissertation on a Japanese Holy Spirit ***

Last sentence is so over the top. It reads like a sketch out of Seinfeld. Imagine sitting there with a pocket knife cutting up 1,000 pairs of shoes while Chinese workers around you are crying. Lol. If this is Visvim though, why are they even using a factory in China that would have a 66%...

www.styleforum.net

 

[PinkuMan]

Seems like this has been up for debate before:

*** Visvim thread: Dissertation on a Japanese Holy Spirit ***

Last sentence is so over the top. It reads like a sketch out of Seinfeld. Imagine sitting there with a pocket knife cutting up 1,000 pairs of shoes while Chinese workers around you are crying. Lol. If this is Visvim though, why are they even using a factory in China that would have a 66%...

www.styleforum.net

This is honestly great info, I didn't think to look that far back into the thread. I thought Goodyear welt just referred to that welt in general, didn't think a certain kind of machine had to be involved in order for it to be considered a "Goodyear welt".

 

[hoodog]

This is honestly great info, I didn't think to look that far back into the thread. I thought Goodyear welt just referred to that welt in general, didn't think a certain kind of machine had to be involved in order for it to be considered a "Goodyear welt".

Well, as people already pointed out back then, the GYW could in theory of course also be done by hand. But in that case the handmade variable doesn't add anything more in terms of construction or quality compared to the standard machine made GYW.

 

[Fycus]

If you owned a pair it's pretty obvious the welt is done by hand. The spacing is too sporadic to be machine controlled. And yes, back to the other comment, is why they still manufacture the boots in China

 

[hoodog]

If you owned a pair it's pretty obvious the welt is done by hand. The spacing is too sporadic to be machine controlled. And yes, back to the other comment, is why they still manufacture the boots in China

Again, yeah it might be done by hand, but if it's the same construction as a regular GYW then the handmade component doesn't add more quality.

 

[pastrystar23]

visvim hand welts their shoes. anything after 2012, which is why they're so expensive, the process itself may the same as goodyear machinery but of course you're paying a human being to do it so it's not quick and that all adds to the price and prestige, it's why a Patek cost more than a Timex. yes, I agree, the use of "goodyear" is bit of a misnomer, in this case I think it is simply describing the fact their is a leather welt that's stitched, I suppose goodyear name has some cache? in any case...

in terms of where the shoes are made, as we all know hiroki makes a point of visiting every factory that produces his items, now being in China, can we be 100% certain that work isn't being subcontracted to places with less attractive working conditions as the one in the video? no, of course not, but I think we can assume hiroki has developed a close relationship with his factories over the years, and I'm sure he's not one to use sweatshop slave labor in the name of profit, of course being made in China in itself is not a bad thing, you just have to find the right people who care about what they make and do it in a transparent fashion, there are good craftsmen all over the world and if they can't hack it, then he'll look somewhere else. I've noticed the new skagways being made in Taiwan. That's a good move.

 

[hoodog]

We're all here reading and posting about Visvim because we're fans of the brand. You don't need to deliver a rebuttal every time anything remotely critical is said.

See above quote.

 

[hoodog]

Meanwhile, Hiroki on his way to the bank:

 

[Emixam]

The welt is handmade on every folk models while it may not add anything in terms of solidity and clearly adds to the final cost, it allows to use waxed thread and the uneven/spaced out stitching adds to the look that I personally favor.

 

[Emixam]

I stand corrected. Seems as though, in that video, they are doing hand welts. I am not persuaded that they do it in general stock footwear though.

Anyway, thats still not a goodyear welt, it's a hand sewn welt.

The good year stitching is done by hand, you are confusing it with the welt stitch to the outsole. Goodyear stitch is the one linking the welt to the upper/insole and that is done by hand in all folk models (without canvas rib which is necessary when stitched by machine) . On top of that, they do the welt stitch by hand as well (rapid stitch is done by machine).

It is very hard to find workshops or small factories able to do such handstitching at a "big scale" and all year long for one brand. Vis releases around 10-15 models per season with 300-500pcs/model, so it seems this Chinese factory (owned by the bearded Taiwanese guy we often see on pics during their exhibition shows) is their best option. Factory has 100pers and also produces for other brands (I discussed twice with the Taiwanese guy). While there are many small handstitched Goodyear workshops in Japan they usually produce their own brands only or cannot handle such big qty for another brand.

 

[Hanto]

As much as I turn my nose up at 'Made in China', all pairs of Vis footwear I have have been excellent quality. Let's not forget that China has a history of producing some of the finest pieces in history, Jade, Porcelein etc. I appreciate recent history has somewhat tarnished this, but with a population that large, surely there will be people who still produce quality.

Same here in England, we have factories in Leicester producing crap for Boohoo, as well as world class cobblers in Northampton and tailors on Savile Row. Nowhere is perfect.

I appreciate not everyone is having a pop at the 'Made in China' tag as part of this conversation, but just wanted to add my two pence.

 

[Emixam]

pay peanuts get monkey, apply everywhere around the world.

 

[PinkuMan]

Sorry for starting a civil war on the topic of China and Goodyear welts lmao. I have just another general knowledge inquiry: why and when did visvim stop calling their denim "fluxus denim" and start calling it "social sculpture denim". Is there a difference between the two? Or is it all just name?