*** Visvim thread: Dissertation on a Japanese Holy Spirit ***

[norigim]

Any thoughts on the ICT capsule? Sorta meh for me.

 

[Watty]

Jesus, I already have two pairs, but would have snagged another for that price...and it was even my size.

 

[LantonMills]

I have no problem giving you or anyone interested a heads up if they work out or not. I just realized these are size 12 (marked 11 UK) - I just grabbed a pair of TWO boots in size 12 that I thought would work but are slightly bigger than I’d like them to be with the heel slip and am hoping these fit better since it’s not slipper like, but if they don’t work I’ll let yall know.

 

[Watty]

@LantonMills - Appreciate that, but I thought they were US 11. UK 11/US 12 is probably too large for me. If somehow that ends up being incorrect and they are a US 11 that doesn't work for you, drop me a line!

 

[Blancpain]

Any thoughts on the ICT capsule? Sorta meh for me.

I am not really into it either. Summer colors but down filled coats. I skipped the original Macray but wish this was a lined coverall vs the winter parka version. Also "Perfectly Harmonized" is still dumb -- Hiroki please stop.

Latest pickup from Exposition. I usually dislike text but I do like old cars soooo...

 

[RaiseThePrice]

I have no problem giving you or anyone interested a heads up if they work out or not. I just realized these are size 12 (marked 11 UK) - I just grabbed a pair of TWO boots in size 12 that I thought would work but are slightly bigger than I’d like them to be with the heel slip and am hoping these fit better since it’s not slipper like, but if they don’t work I’ll let yall know.

Which TWO*s did you picked up?

 

[LantonMills]

Which TWO*s did you picked up?

Mr porter flash sale. Gorgeous details and so comfortable.

 

[discobobulated]

Not really feeling the ICT either. Would love to have a Macray but they fluffed it with these ones. Not liking the lining in this and doesn't match the crash finish, unlike the original one.

 

[grs]

Im very on the fence with the Alcan JKT. I like the cut and that it's close to a swing top, but text on the back is making me reconsider. I feel like Perfectly Harmonized I.C.T. isn't the worst because it seems more vintage. better than PEERLESS VISVIM at least. Reminds me of an FFA jacket. I wish it was easier to find the peyton dry denim swing top from 2020.

 

[maxfax]

I am not really into it either. Summer colors but down filled coats. I skipped the original Macray but wish this was a lined coverall vs the winter parka version. Also "Perfectly Harmonized" is still dumb -- Hiroki please stop.

Latest pickup from Exposition. I usually dislike text but I do like old cars soooo...

Is the ICT macray for this capsule collection a down parka???

 

[elongatedskull]

Im very on the fence with the Alcan JKT. I like the cut and that it's close to a swing top, but text on the back is making me reconsider. I feel like Perfectly Harmonized I.C.T. isn't the worst because it seems more vintage. better than PEERLESS VISVIM at least. Reminds me of an FFA jacket. I wish it was easier to find the peyton dry denim swing top from 2020.

I was prepared to risk it all for the Macray until seeing it was down insulated, just unnecessary for my wardrobe right now, i'm hoping to try on the Alcan as it seems like a really nice lightweight jacket, also looking at a Ketchikan though from FW at another retailer

 

[Fycus]

Is the ICT macray for this capsule collection a down parka???

Correct, its their coverall but down filled with the rayon ict liner. Looks dumpy to me, apparently hottest item for Chinese buyers. Also recommended to size down. Not super useful in California so am going to pass. Am getting hellion since I'm currently kerchief-less and I loved the lookbook styling, will also consider denim and wallis but might need to check out in person.

 

[Blancpain]

Yep as Fycus said same down fill and liner as the kerchiefs. Which is cool there but agree it doesn't match here - silky and puffy doesn't give the feeling of a very well used vintage farm jacket and feels inauthentic.

Hellion seems like the best of the bunch to me too. Post photos when you get it!

For reference, here's the new Macray info from IG:

 

[elongatedskull]

For my first 9 years following the brand (2011-2020) - visvim nailed their stuff in terms of trim, fabric, and aesthetic but the arms were so high and tight it was impossible to wear comfortably unless you have tiny shoulders and arms. This required almost all western buyers to size up, resulting in excessively long arms. Worst offenders were the noragi, but also the 101 jkt. The barnstorm varsity is another example that looks ridiculous by modern standards, it was so stupidly cut. This also made pre-orders even more of a gamble, because you'd be stuck with sleeves that go past your fingers, or an item that wont fit in the arms/pits.

I think with the rise of the baggy trend they were able to pivot, and redo their patterns that cater to a broader audience, but not necessarily alienate existing buyers (the patterns still work on skinnier frames). Now I can often fit a 3 or 4 without much guesswork, and don't feel like I'm taking a massive gamble with pre-orders. I did overhear a lot of visvim's older clientele isnt happy about the oversized garments (since it comes off as more street/casual), but in general it seems that people are more receptive to the change. Not to mention customers can likely size down to achieve a closer-to-body fit if they so desire.

As far as the brand getting better, that is up for interpretation. They are one of the few brands constantly pushing the needle every season, and there are a lot of misses, but as disco highlighted there are also a lot of hits. The prices are still eye-wateringly high, even despite the weak yen, and I find that there are more limited releases now than ever before, but they don't get the same publicity as before. Its not uncommon to see a limited item release with little to no fanfare, such as that ICT sashiko wallis shirt. Before you could reach out to a proxy with a shot at getting, but usually you're SOL if you slept on the release. That leads me to believe they are as popular as ever, or their production runs are so limited that there is little stock to go around.

I would appreciate if they release more of their historical staple items at a reasonable price point with basic washes (kilgore, minie hunting jkt, 101), but it seems doing that would be antithetical to what the brand is. And I think that is what tends to resonate with people who follow the brand, its very much a take it or leave it attitude, and they continue to operate at their own altitude.

I had a couple shirts and such back in the early 10s and always dreamed after a 101, as a smaller guy I could fit a 2 back then but a 2 now is such an elegant baggy cut compared to the trim and tight fit. I was just trying on a couple blazers today and loved the elegant and unassuming tailoring.
An OG kilgore or even some of those welded pocket oxford shirts would be super nice in an updated fit block...

 

[Fycus]

So they actually released the kilgore with the updated fit as a spot release in 19ss, unfortunately they made the collar huge so overall it was a miss, but agree in general it would be cool to see some staples get retro'd