*** Visvim thread: Dissertation on a Japanese Holy Spirit ***

[dieworkwear]



I've owned boots that were done by machine and by hand, and the handstitching is much less precise and more organic, but the machine sewn boots were much more sterile, and dare I say argue the end shape of the footwear. I would agree that functionally the shoes are the same, but the handsewn last seem does to have a level of character not present on the machine stitched footwear.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Lastly, I don't know how people say quality is underwhelming for the price. The footwear made this season, kngr boots specifically are only $709 after tax after JPY conversion and feature:
-Handsewn goodyear construction which we already agreed is timely and time=money
-Kangaroo leather (which usually always warrants a higher price on viberg or other brands like russell)
-Partially lined interior with cork footbed (most vibergs are entirely unlined)
-Three piece hand-shaped sole, with handsewn reinforcement stitching at the toe (The sole is a combination of vibram anti slip sheeting and foam, the foam is done in two pieces and hand shaped then adhered to the rubber sheet)

I don't want to go in depth, but if you look at the level of work that goes into a pair of shoes, then compare it to something put out by viberg, the price/quality ratio is up there. Sure there are some brands that can do more for less, but visvim usually adheres to standard apparel margins even with their more expensive items..

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What's a hand shaped sole?

 

[LA Guy]

The stitchdown construction has nothing to do with the shape of the toebox and how that evolves. That has to do with the conscious choice to combine an unstructured toe on a boot that already has a shallow toe. However, Viberg is more than capable of making boots that keep a high. rounded toe box, like in this rather popular makeup that 3Sixteen just did:


A lot of the boots Viberg did earlier for the Japanese market had a more traditional workboot toe, which Visvim favors.

I think that it's fine to prefer the look and probably branding of Visvim (I like the hype, for sure), but it's a mistake to feel that you have to justify it against another brand's offerings. I personally like both Visvim and Vibergs. Actually, the first pair of Vibergs I got custom made was based on a pair of taupe/grey Virgils frim about 2011.

Re. the price. Both brands charge a premium because they can. If you want to look at material and construction costs, and knowing a fair bit about the factory that does the Visvim boots, I would say that Viberg's (which are unlined only for their heavier leathers, and for specific styles) prices are more "justified". But that's a stupid line argument that I'd rather leave in CM.

 

[Fycus]



What's a hand shaped sole?

They literally sand down foam shims to fit the shape of a traditional single piece vibram sole, but instead of a single piece its done in 4.

 

[dieworkwear]



They literally sand down foam shims to fit the shape of a traditional single piece vibram sole, but instead of a single piece its done in 4.

None of this seems different than what you'd typically do on a GY welted boot though. They seem to hand sew the GY welt, but that seems more of a marketing point than an issue with construction quality.

Anyway, I buy Edward Greens for dress shoes. They cost about the same as Visvims in the US, and they're also just GY welted. I'm not knocking them, just saying I wish they offered handwelted shoes instead of "handwelted GY," which seems kind of silly.

 

[Fycus]



The stitchdown construction has nothing to do with the shape of the toebox and how that evolves.  That has to do with the conscious choice to combine an unstructured toe on a boot that already has a shallow toe.
A lot of the boots Viberg did earlier for the Japanese market had a more traditional workboot toe, which Visvim favors.

I agree that it is more of a function of last rather than construction, but the stitchdown method makes the footbed/toe area look really flat, particularly after wear:

 

[dieworkwear]



I agree that it is more of a function of last rather than construction, but the stitchdown method makes the footbed look really flat, particularly after wear:

That has to do with the toe puff, not the method of attaching the soles to the uppers. The top boot is unstructured at the toe (no celestic or leather toe puff). The ones at the bottom have a toe puff (probably celeastic -- a plastic impregnated fabric). Most stitched down boots have toe puffs (the method comes from a NW tradition of making logger boots). Viberg will do it upon request. They just don't sometimes for stylistic reasons.

 

[LA Guy]

They literally sand down foam shims to fit the shape of a traditional single piece vibram sole, but instead of a single piece its done in 4.

This is actually standard for pretty much all wedge soles. By this criteria, the prototype of that 3Sixteen is the best thing ever, since instead of a foam wedge, Viberg had to shape and cut each leather piece of the wedge by hand, then compound them together.

Or my double midsole Viberg, in which there is a second lather midsole, then a foam wedge, and then the outsole.

Like Visvim products (I do, and have too many of their footwear). But don't drink the koolaid. It's just nice marketing.

 

[LA Guy]

I agree that it is more of a function of last rather than construction, but the stitchdown method makes the footbed/toe area look really flat, particularly after wear:

This is simply not true.

I will say that Visvim does some cool stuff that I wish that Vierb would do, though, like putting zippers on their boots. And I will say that Visvim actually makes decent quality boots, unlike, say, Sophnet, which I like, but honestly, uses a ****** salpa in their toebox.

 

[Fycus]



This is actually standard for pretty much all wedge soles.  By this criteria, the prototype of that 3Sixteen is the best thing ever, since instead of a foam wedge, Viberg had to shape and cut each leather piece of the wedge by hand, then compound them together.  

Visvim makes hand-dyed pizi fabric, wraps it around a leather shim, and fits in between two dainite soles. I agree the argument is fruitless but in terms of working time I get tired of hearing the same "its overpriced" argument. Very few other makers on the market offer the same type of boot for the money.

 

[dieworkwear]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

Visvim makes hand-dyed pizi fabric, wraps it around a leather shim, and fits in between two dainite soles. I agree the argument is fruitless but in terms of working time I get tired of hearing the same "its overpriced" argument. Very few other makers on the market offer the same type of boot for the money

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Rumor is, if you buy at US prices, you'll also get a hand-written invoice.

 

[LA Guy]

Visvim laos puts hand-dyed pizi fabric, wraps it around a leather shim, and fits in between two dainite soles. I agree the argument is fruitless but in terms of working time I get tired of hearing the same "its overpriced" argument. Very few other makers on the market offer the same type of boot for the money.

Well, no one makes the same product. It's pretty awesome. But I hate, hate, hate, most "this is quality and thus not overpriced" arguments. The boots are priced they way that they are priced because the market can bear it. That's the truth. The 3 part sole, gimme a break. Look at the Bison Vibergs I just showed you. You can easily see the 3 parts of the wedge sole. And yes, a guy sands them down by hand. It's actually Glenn Viberg, for Viberg. For some people this has additional storytelling value. Not to discount the value of storytelling, but let's all just recognize that we pay for that.

 

[winston86dit]

I own multiple pairs of Visvim boots and have owned tons of other manufacturers over the years and I would say they are all pretty comparable to one another. Although I have never bought boots thinking I need something to dredge through the apocalypse.

On the above, the Viberg leather wedge is pretty cool and yea, it is definitely more costly than what Visvim has chosen to do on the Virgil but not by a huge margin. The Virgil uses stacked EVA which is cheaper than leather but also needs to be cut, skived, and buffed and then glued together. Also, EVA as a material is nowhere near as durable as leather but what Visvim is using it for is for weight reduction, forgoing the durability for a lighter product. They still utilize vibram outsoles which is of course a top notch product.

Honestly I could never really imagine going through my Visvim boots unless really trying to push it. I have needed to resole one of my Vibram soles before but that was a cinch and the cost is relatively inexpensive and the boot is like new again.

Overall I would say the price is warranted for Visvim and not because you have a boot for life or any of that madness but because there is nothing else like it on the market. I'd like to think most of what your paying for with Visvim is the uniqueness, the details, design, durability, and the story.

 

[Emixam]



Thinking about buying my first pair of KNGR folk Virgils or aged bark Viberg 1930 captoe boots and god I am so torn btw the 2. Both are obviously different in terms of styling, but can anyone comment on the quality of the newer Visvim Virgils and their durability?

Visvim are more comfortable than viberg, Goodyear construction allows better flexibility. Viberg are more durable, they're basically indestructible. I owned the service boots on dainite and the scout boots on Christy sole, I sold them because they were not so comfortable and super heavy compared to brigs on dainite or virgil on christy (viberg uses heavier/stiffer Hides). I also prefer the visvim aesthetic but that's up to you.

As for the country of origin, why would you care if they are as well made if not better than made in USA shoes?

 

[ultraman982]

So I'm new to Vis, and I've noticed releases are generally on Tuesday (right?).

I'm curious though, is there a calendar of some sort to know what's coming out every week? Really want the upcoming plain color Sanjuro Bomber...but I have no idea how to get it. Do I just check every Tuesday and hope I can get it before it sells out? Also curious because I figure I'd use a proxy for something like this, as it'd be significantly cheaper than buying direct in USD.

Any help here appreciated!

 

[LA Guy]



I own multiple pairs of Visvim boots and have owned tons of other manufacturers over the years and I would say they are all pretty comparable to one another. Although I have never bought boots thinking I need something to dredge through the apocalypse.

On the above, the Viberg leather wedge is pretty cool and yea, it is definitely more costly than what Visvim has chosen to do on the Virgil but not by a huge margin. The Virgil uses stacked EVA which is cheaper than leather but also needs to be cut, skived, and buffed and then glued together. Also, EVA as a material is nowhere near as durable as leather but what Visvim is using it for is for weight reduction, forgoing the durability for a lighter product. They still utilize vibram outsoles which is of course a top notch product.

Honestly I could never really imagine going through my Visvim boots unless really trying to push it. I have needed to resole one of my Vibram soles before but that was a cinch and the cost is relatively inexpensive and the boot is like new again.

Overall I would say the price is warranted for Visvim and not because you have a boot for life or any of that madness but because there is nothing else like it on the market. I'd like to think most of what your paying for with Visvim is the uniqueness, the details, design, durability, and the story.

Mostly you are paying for the design and the story, which is more than enough justification, really. Why do you need any justification other than that it's an affordable luxury?