Visting Chan's Shanghai shop on 4/27

[R111]

Hey guys,

This is my first post. I'm heading to Shanghai on vacation next week, so I setup an appointment with Chan's shop. I'm starting this thread to talk about my experience. This will be my first MTM or Bespoke suit.

I'm choosing Chan's shop based upon the numerous reviews here and on the AAAC forum. I rarely hear about Dave's shop, and haven't seen any pictures or in depth experiences. Since I'm only going to be in town for three and a half days, I'm going with what I can read and see online.

Another thing, Dave's shop said they could turn out a suit in three days, but Chan said it wasn't realistic, and that three days would be enough for 2 fittings.

All of my suits are OTR, but I'll be wearing my favorite. It's a Belvest 3pc SB, 2 button made in Birdseye Tan/Olive color. I forgot the thread count or the fabric maker. I just love how the Belvest pants drape. It beats out my Corneliani and Canali. Of course, it's 2-3 times the price.

Can anyone help me with the fabics that Chan offers? I've read a couple of names, if you have any general positive/negatives summaries of those brands, it would help.

Also, has anyone used Chan's tour vistis for a final fitting? Chan's folks will be in San Francisco in June. By then I'm my suit can be brought with them, or I can bring my Chan suit for a check.

Lastly, I'll use this thread to post any updates I get from my trip. This feels like when I did a European Delivery on my car last November. The process to receive the final product is [a seratonin] rush. <-- fill in your own word.

 

[JLibourel]

Chan's folks are actually going to be in San Francisco on JULY 20 and 21, not June. I know because I am going to being seeing them in Beverly Hills on the 18th of July.

I will follow your reports with interest. I can only hope that your relationship with Chan will be as satisfying to you as it has been to me. I hope to keep ordering garments from Chan for the remainder of my active existence...which in my case probably won't be too long, unfortunately.

 

[whoopee]

What's Dave's shop?

Anyway, two proper fittings actually should get you a fine suit. The third one is usually a check up and more often than not you walk away from that one with the suit.

Chan have Scabal, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Zegna, Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis, Charles Clayton, and some randoms. I think the best are the Scabal Super 100s and the Holland & Sherrys, though I don't remember exactly which they have. Probably 9/10 oz 100s. They also had, IMMSMC, the Victory book - S140 wool/cashmere/mink. Not a good choice for a first suit, but beautiful stuff; I'd drop money on that before Loro Piana again.

Anyway, I think the H&S and Scabal are the best choices, with Vitale Barberis (VBC) 120s and maybe the Charles Clayton (not familiar with Chan's selection) very fine and less expensive options, too.

 

[whoopee]

Oh, also, the HK shop conduct the tours, so I'm not sure what obstacles you'd have getting the Shanghai suit coordinated with them. Probably not a problem though.

 

[R111]

Dave Tailor is another tailor shop, along with WW Chan, that is well listed on Shanghai guidebooks and expat forums. I've seen a dozen references of them as a reputable shop, but only two blogs contained nothing more than a picture or two of their fittings. The big thing to know is that he apprenticed in Taiwan, and returned to his roots in Shanghai. An email inquiry found that suits range from 487 to 2500 USD and shirts at 45 to 100 USD. I have a feeling the lower spectrum of prices are Chinese fabrics. For tourist and locals who choose to buy fabric and use the tailors at the fabric market, suits range in couple hundred range. I was ready to go to them until I found more info here.

If you want to look at his site, try http://www.tailordave.com




Update from W.W. Chan:

There should be time for two fittings to be done during your stay. Our Maoming staff will discuss with you in details regarding arrangement for fittings.

As for the "buy two get one free" offer for shirts, we will still have it on when you arrive. So please feel free to take this advantage to get yourself a free shirt.

We look forward to seeing you soon.

Best regards,

Arnold Wong
Sales Department​

Yippee! Free shirts. I might be inclined to buy half dozen now. I like it.

 

[R111]

Originally Posted by JLibourel

Chan's folks are actually going to be in San Francisco on JULY 20 and 21, not June. I know because I am going to being seeing them in Beverly Hills on the 18th of July.

I will follow your reports with interest. I can only hope that your relationship with Chan will be as satisfying to you as it has been to me. I hope to keep ordering garments from Chan for the remainder of my active existence...which in my case probably won't be too long, unfortunately.

I stand corrected. I quoted the wrong J-month. It almost seems liked he has a tour once a quarter. It's nice that they swing through SF.

 

[R111]

Originally Posted by whoopee

What's Dave's shop?

Anyway, two proper fittings actually should get you a fine suit. The third one is usually a check up and more often than not you walk away from that one with the suit.

Chan have Scabal, Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry, Zegna, Loro Piana, Vitale Barberis, Charles Clayton, and some randoms. I think the best are the Scabal Super 100s and the Holland & Sherrys, though I don't remember exactly which they have. Probably 9/10 oz 100s. They also had, IMMSMC, the Victory book - S140 wool/cashmere/mink. Not a good choice for a first suit, but beautiful stuff; I'd drop money on that before Loro Piana again.

Anyway, I think the H&S and Scabal are the best choices, with Vitale Barberis (VBC) 120s and maybe the Charles Clayton (not familiar with Chan's selection) very fine and less expensive options, too.

Thank you for the information. I'm a dolt when it comes to this. I'm afraid I might get a fabric that doesn't drape well. The second concern is that I pick a pattern that'll get dated quickly. That won't be anyones fault but mine.

Would cashmere or part cashmere blend be ok for a three season suit ( spring/summer/fall)? If so, should it be a higher thread count so it's thinner?

I checked my Belvest last night. It only had a label " Super 120s" It didn't have a fabric manufacturer's label. I bought this suit from Barcelino in SF; so it has a "Belvest made for Barcelino" label inside.

 

[progressive]

I saw your price quotes from Dave's, what are Chan's for comparison?

 

[whoopee]

Funny, my father has a couple of htose Belvest for Barcelino suits, but 150s, I think. The fabric is commensurate with a Zegna super, a bit nicer than LP supers.

For a first suit you shouldn't go for a luxury fabric. Wait until you're sure the tailors can do what you want.

I don't know if you could comfortable wear cashmere in the summer, maybe in San Francisco. If you are indeed looking for a versatile suit, go for one of the 9-10 oz. Scabal or Holland & Sherry worsteds (or VBC). If you like the slicker Zegna or Loro Piana, I think the former are a little better. If you really need a little cashmere (though it doesn't do much unless it's a significant percentage), the Scabal Super 120 wool & cashmere fabrics (10 oz) are just a bit pricier than the standards and Italian supers. Nice stuff, actually.

Solids, basic stripes and windowpanes won't be dated.

 

[R111]

Originally Posted by progressive

I saw your price quotes from Dave's, what are Chan's for comparison?

Arnold quoted the starting prices of suits at 6000 RMB ~ 750 USD and 680 RMB ~ 85 USD for shirts. Dependant on materials. He made no mention of the shirt sale until I asked in another email. It's possible that Arnold is quoting book prices, and the shirt promotion might be local.

I'll ask in 6 days! (5, if you count the timezone difference)

 

[R111]

In the middle of searching about those manufacturers, I stumbled upon a MTM company in NL called Possen. They made a midnight blue suit with a "ferrari red" lining.

i wonder how this turned out. Could this be too daring?

 

[whoopee]

Daring, but not too daring if you like it and aren't a flasher.

 

[pkincy]

The beauty of SF is that the weather is virtually the same year round. From a low high of 50's in Jan to a high of 70's most days in July, with only the occasional scorcher when the wind is out of the East.

So a 10 oz will work virtually year round. I used to wear my winter suits in the summer. It felt hot getting on (and worse getting off in the evening) the BART in Walnut Creek but by the time I detrained in SF it was again cool and comfortable.

Natural AC is wonderful.

The heavier fabric will give you the drape you look for. Go to Barcelino's (Tell Reggie, if you are on Montgomery, that the suit he sent me this week is wonderful!) and ask for him to show you suits and explain the fabric finish a bit as well as estimate the cloth weight. Do wear your Belvest and as a customer he will happily give you some of the info you need to pull a great fabric off a swatch. Which, by the way, I find the most intimidating thing about bespoke.

I would concentrate hard on the finish you want. That will make a huge difference in the final product. After fabric finish, concentrate on weight. That is the second most distinguishing characteristic of the final suit. Than 3rd look for fabric composition and color.

I second the use of a fairly standard 100-120's to begin with in a very stock fabric book. Armed with the finish, and weight from your visit to Reggie (or Steve if you are up at the Post Store), coupled with your fabric composition and color from the swatch, you will have a great first suit.

I think the beauty of bespoke is its wonderful fit which makes it wear so well for the whole day. So I would get a very mainstay suit color, finish and fabric. Say a navy or gray in a relatively hard finish for durability and standard 100% wool composition and 9-10 oz (300-320 gm) weight.

Perry

 

[Kent Wang]

You may be interseted in my Chan thread as we seem to be going through similar experiences. I believe in another thread I read that Chan usually has one or two fabrics at a special price and that is what they offer first to customers. At the time that I ordered my suit this included the Zegna Trofeo worsteds (RMB 7500 for 2pc suit), which I chose. Freddy at the Maoming store explained that they are able to offer these fabrics at a lower price because they are very popular with customers and they are therefore able to buy larger quantities and hence a lower price. The shirt offer is indeed for the Shanghai stores only. Oddly enough, when I placed my order I was told that the price was RMB 680 and was not offered a lower price for lesser fabrics.

 

[R111]

Originally Posted by Kent Wang

You may be interseted in my Chan thread as we seem to be going through similar experiences.

I believe in another thread I read that Chan usually has one or two fabrics at a special price and that is what they offer first to customers. At the time that I ordered my suit this included the Zegna Trofeo worsteds (RMB 7500 for 2pc suit), which I chose. Freddy at the Maoming store explained that they are able to offer these fabrics at a lower price because they are very popular with customers and they are therefore able to buy larger quantities and hence a lower price.

The shirt offer is indeed for the Shanghai stores only. Oddly enough, when I placed my order I was told that the price was RMB 680 and was not offered a lower price for lesser fabrics.


Kent

your thread is where I got wind of the sale on shirts. I seriously need an education on materials. I've been doing as much reading as I can with my free time on suiting fabrics. How did you fittings go? Aren't you about done?

Thanks. 3 days and counting...