Visit to Chan for first real suit

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Apr 2, 2006.

  1. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I think that's known as the "belly" of the lapel. The roll in on your jacket is to the second button. In either case, I would think it's a function of the stiffness and stitching of the canvas used in the lapel. I'm not sure why the belly is not as pronounced as those I've seen in pictures. Although, I've never really seen as dramatic a lapel belly in person as I have in photos. Maybe it's similar to the pinning that always occurs on jackets on mannequins.

    dan

    If I may nitpick, "belly" refers to the shape of the edge of the lapel between the top button and the gorge. A lapel that curves outward is said to have belly.
     


  2. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I see, and lapel roll is as I described above. So is there a term for the "roll" of the lapel as Kent uses it?
     


  3. j

    j (stands for Jerk) Admin

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    I see, and lapel roll is as I described above. So is there a term for the "roll" of the lapel as Kent uses it?
    I don't know, I was trying to think of one too. Maybe we should make one up. Roll radius? Sinus lapeli?
     


  4. Maggio

    Maggio Member

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    Kent,

    I liked what I saw so much I finally decided to register onthis board and post. Nice suit. I think the fit is great.
     


  5. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    Thank you everyone for your kind words.
    I dunno if it was brought to your attn before, but your left shoulder drops much more than your right.
    Yes, Chan already made some modifications on both the jacket and the shirt to compensate for my posture.
    What kind of lapel roll did you ask for? It looks like it was rolled to the 2nd button, rather than 2 1/2. Anyway, I had the same comment about my suit. give the lapel a good steaming and it should pop right out.
    I told them to roll it to the 2nd button but I didn't even realize 2 1/2 was an option. Now that you mention it, it does seem obvious and I think I would have preferred that. I would've really liked it if instead of the top button being on the underside of the lapel, if the lapel rolled to a degree that would position the button perpendicular to the body. I suppose that would both require a higher roll to 2 1/2 and a larger roll radius.
    The shirt looks pretty good, but a little too trim around the midsection for my taste.
    Yeah, I know, gotta lose some weight. Maggio, welcome to the forum.
     


  6. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    I told them to roll it to the 2nd button but I didn't even realize 2 1/2 was an option. Now that you mention it, it does seem obvious and I think I would have preferred that. I would've really liked it if instead of the top button being on the underside of the lapel, if the lapel rolled to a degree that would position the button perpendicular to the body. I suppose that would both require a higher roll to 2 1/2 and a larger roll radius.
    I only know because I almost made the same mistake. Here's what my 2 1/2 looked like:
    [​IMG]
    My suit is currently with Chan to remedy the shoulder issue, among other things.
     


  7. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Excellent suit
     


  8. kcgreg

    kcgreg Senior member

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    Nice suit and shirt Ken!!![​IMG] Cool - looks very sharp. Can't see the shoes though? What are you wearing?
     


  9. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    Looking good! I like the cut of the suit a lot.
     


  10. Fabro

    Fabro Senior member

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    Really nice Kent. This is the second recent Chan suit I've liked a lot. I must get to HK or Shanghai soon.
     


  11. aportnoy

    aportnoy Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Very nice Kent, it fits you well.

    Though I must admit that I prefer my jackets to be cut a little longer.
     


  12. Get Smart

    Get Smart Don't Crink

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    Kent, top gear there fella!

    and I like the slimness of the shirt, it will keep you motivated to not get fat
     


  13. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    An interesting feature that I've never seen before is that although the trousers are flat front, darts were added to the front, one on each side. Renault78law: That's exactly what I wanted. Oh well, next time.
    Nice suit and shirt Ken!!![​IMG] Cool - looks very sharp. Can't see the shoes though? What are you wearing?
    Corrected grain Cole Haans, nothing to see here. My next acquisition will be a pair of proper shoes.
     


  14. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Kent

    It is a few years (1997) since i have had a Chan suit - i use gordon Yao currently whose quality is the equal. However three points come to mind.

    1 Did Chan put a concealed watch pocket in the waistband automatically. This was the first time I had one like this and I have done so ever since.

    2. The quality of the linings offered was very poor - far too thin and lightweight. Have they improved their offer now?

    What inside pockets did you get - I found them very willing to meet my unusual requirements.
     


  15. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    1 Did Chan put a concealed watch pocket in the waistband automatically. This was the first time I had one like this and I have done so ever since.
    I don't think so. Where would it be located?
    2. The quality of the linings offered was very poor - far too thin and lightweight. Have they improved their offer now?
    I'm not sure, but all the ones they offered me were fairly thin. I happen to prefer that. I was a little disappointed that they didn't have more interesting linings. I wanted to get a really boldly striped lining for the sleeves but could only find one with conservatively colored stripes. I still think they're a nice personalization though. [​IMG]
    What inside pockets did you get - I found them very willing to meet my unusual requirements.
    I went with their default which includes a pen pocket and another lower pocket. What inside pockets do you get? I hear the RJMan likes to add a hidden cat treat pocket.
     


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