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Visit to Chan for first real suit

Kent Wang

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This is similar to Brian SD's post on AAAC. I will be going to Shanghai and Hong Kong in a few days and visiting Chan. I only own one suit now, picked up from eBay, so I will be commissioning my first "real" suit. Here are the details that I have already decided upon: solid charcoal worsted very close, slim fit, tight waist 3 button rolled to 2 notch lapels lapels on the thin side side vents high gorge ticket pocket regular flap pockets no roping light shoulder padding trousers: flat front side tabs button-through rear pockets I am uncertain about the openess of the front quarters. I do feel that my current suit is too open and am annoyed by the way the quarters flop around. Is there a particular disadvantage to more closed quarters that I should be aware of? For the trousers, are side tabs as opposed to belt loops a good idea? I have only owned belt loop trousers but from the photos I've seen side tabs are so much more clean and elegant. Braces, I do not wish to tangle with yet. What other details should I consider? Brian, it sounds like we are both getting fairly similar suits. Have you gone to your fitting yet? How did it go?
 

whoopee

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Closed quarters lack dash IMO and create an imbalanced appearance between the opening above the button and lack thereof below. I don't understand what quarters flopping around means, but would think the additional fabric on closed quarters would make that occurence more likely. Anyway, a well fitted skirt might eliminate the problem, too (I think). They also lengthen the leg (instead of the coat bisecting the body). Chan's house style is for rather closed quarters would look dumpy, so you should ask for them to be more opened no matter what.

Side tabs sound good.

Consider inside pockets; the position of the outside pockets, including the breast pocket; the depth of the vents; the width and shape of the sleeves and trousers; the rise; side pockets.

If you can, go for the nicer English fabrics in a medium weight. They tailor better and it shows. Take time with your fittings, be precise and definite about your specifications, and don't be put off by how little time it may take for the measuring and fitting to take, on Patrick's part.
 
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give some thought to sleeve hole height and sleeve width.

my most recent suit (the one i posted at AAAC while the lights were out here) looks great largely because of the very high sleeve holes and very thin sleeves.

also - you getting horizontal or hacking pockets?

presumably no cuffs on the pants since you going for flatfronts?
 

Kent Wang

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Originally Posted by [email protected]
give some thought to sleeve hole height and sleeve width. my most recent suit (the one i posted at AAAC while the lights were out here) looks great largely because of the very high sleeve holes and very thin sleeves. also - you getting horizontal or hacking pockets? presumably no cuffs on the pants since you going for flatfronts?
Good points. High armholes, thin sleeves just like yours. Horizontal pockets. No cuffs on the trousers.
 
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btw Kent, just another consideration - what is better, your Mandarin or your Cantonese? You may let that be the decision maker between whether you do it in HK or SH.

Im sure the Chan guys in both cities have functional enough English, but having Chinese on your side will make you much better equipped to discuss details than we lao wai
 

Kent Wang

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Originally Posted by [email protected]
btw Kent, just another consideration - what is better, your Mandarin or your Cantonese? You may let that be the decision maker between whether you do it in HK or SH.
Good point. Mandarin. No Cantonese at all. I'll respond in the other thread but I'm currently leaning towards SH.
 

Kent Wang

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I went to the Maoming Lu location.

I went with a medium charcoal Zegna Trofeo fabric and have already gone to my first fitting. My second fitting is in late April and I should have the final suit finished by the end of the month. Needless to say, I'm very excited.
 

DocHolliday

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Originally Posted by Kent Wang
I went to the Maoming Lu location.

I went with a medium charcoal Zegna Trofeo fabric and have already gone to my first fitting. My second fitting is in late April and I should have the final suit finished by the end of the month. Needless to say, I'm very excited.


How did the fitting go? Did you drill them about proper sleeve length?
 

whoopee

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Honestly, I've personally never had the long sleeve problems. If anything they are too short.
 

Kent Wang

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Originally Posted by DocHolliday
How did the fitting go? Did you drill them about proper sleeve length?
This must vary from tailor to tailor and shop to shop because their default length was to show 1/8". I told them I liked 3/8" and they did not hesitate at all. What I did have to be firm on was the slimness of the trouser leg and openness of the front quarters. I also ordered three shirts. The Shanghai shops are currently having a sale for RMB 680 each and buy two get one free, so that comes out to about USD 56 per shirt. I believe Vintage Gent said shirts from the Hong Kong shop were USD 100 a shirt so this is quite a good sale and I would recommend everyone to take advantage of it if you can get yourself to Shanghai. They might handle mail order too, especially if they've already measured you for suits. As far as the shirt fitting process, I had to be very firm about getting a slim sleeve. The shirting fabrics they have on hand seem to be on par with the JKT fabrics from Jantzen but they have about three times as many. The buttons are not as nice, they have big MOP ones but not ones with the self-shank that Jantzen has that I order for all of my shirts.
 

dah328

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You must be getting different MOP buttons than me. The thick MOP buttons I have on my Chan shirts from HK are significantly nicer than the thick MOP buttons from Jantzen.
 

Kent Wang

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Originally Posted by dah328
You must be getting different MOP buttons than me. The thick MOP buttons I have on my Chan shirts from HK are significantly nicer than the thick MOP buttons from Jantzen.
It may be possible that the Shanghai shop has different buttons than the HK one. I am referring to these buttons from Jantzen:
Do your Chan buttons have a self-shank? I'm not even sure this is the right term for it; I'm referring to the way the button has a cylindrical protrusion to distance itself from the buttonhole so that it lies more smoothly. It's not easy to see from the above photo but you would know immediately what I'm referring to if you saw them in person.
 

drake

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Whose your cutter? This is weird because all the clothing Patrick has made for me I didn't have to be firm at all. I said high armholes and I got nice slim arms and didn't even have to ask for shanked buttons that's how they came. Patrick was also very willing to open up the front quarters of my suit and I think he said it would look better that way on me anyway. He was pretty willing to do whatever I asked him but did steer me away from some bad choices I was thinking of making. Congratulations on your first bespoke suit Kent
Originally Posted by Kent Wang
This must vary from tailor to tailor and shop to shop because their default length was to show 1/8". I told them I liked 3/8" and they did not hesitate at all. What I did have to be firm on was the slimness of the trouser leg and openness of the front quarters. As far as the shirt fitting process, I had to be very firm about getting a slim sleeve. The shirting fabrics they have on hand seem to be on par with the JKT fabrics from Jantzen but they have about three times as many. The buttons are not as nice, they have big MOP ones but not ones with the self-shank that Jantzen has that I order for all of my shirts.
 

Kent Wang

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Originally Posted by drake
Whose your cutter? This is weird because all the clothing Patrick has made for me I didn't have to be firm at all. I said high armholes and I got nice slim arms and didn't even have to ask for shanked buttons that's how they came. Patrick was also very willing to open up the front quarters of my suit and I think he said it would look better that way on me anyway. He was pretty willing to do whatever I asked him but did steer me away from some bad choices I was thinking of making.
We're talking about the same guy, very skinny, right? Maybe he second guessed me more because I am young. Have another fitting in a week. Looking forward to it.
 

Vintage Gent

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Originally Posted by Kent Wang
I believe Vintage Gent said shirts from the Hong Kong shop were USD 100 a shirt so this is quite a good sale and I would recommend everyone to take advantage of it if you can get yourself to Shanghai.

Maybe on special they are, but the HK shirts seem to be running anywhere from $108 to $124, depending on the fabric.
 

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