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Vintage Italian Tailor Mystery Sartoria Bacigalupo - Bespoke Raglan Coat?

Baron

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I found this overcoat on ebay on the cheap. The pictures were bad and the sizing was not very specific, but I was intrigued by the label and I've always wanted a raglan donegal/herringbone coat. As it turns out, this is both heavier and larger than I thought, so I'm not sure that I'll keep it, but I'm wondering if anyone can help me figure out the provenance. The label is for Sartoria Bacigalupo in Lavagna. I think this coat may be bespoke - there is no other label and it appears to be completely hand made. It also looks like it might be old, but I have no idea really. Google didn't turn up anything on the tailor. The stitching isn't particularly fine or tight, but I don't see any evidence of machine work. Anyone know anything about the maker or have any notion of the age? The other question I have is about whether it's something that would be worth tailoring to fit, or if it would even be possible. It seems to fit me in the shoulders and length, but it's hard to tell with a raglan sleeve, and it's really quite voluminous in the body. I don't have fit pictures yet so we'll just concern ourselves with the provenance for now.
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comrade

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Originally Posted by Baron
I found this overcoat on ebay on the cheap. The pictures were bad and the sizing was not very specific, but I was intrigued by the label and I've always wanted a raglan donegal/herringbone coat. As it turns out, this is both heavier and larger than I thought, so I'm not sure that I'll keep it, but I'm wondering if anyone can help me figure out the provenance. The label is for Sartoria Bacigalupo in Lavagna. I think this coat may be bespoke - there is no other label and it appears to be completely hand made. It also looks like it might be old, but I have no idea really. Google didn't turn up anything on the tailor. The stitching isn't particularly fine or tight, but I don't see any evidence of machine work. Anyone know anything about the maker or have any notion of the age?

The other question I have is about whether it's something that would be worth tailoring to fit, or if it would even be possible. It seems to fit me in the shoulders and length, but it's hard to tell with a raglan sleeve, and it's really quite voluminous in the body. I don't have fit pictures yet so we'll just concern ourselves with the provenance for now.

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It's a beautiful Coat. A Classic that you won't find in most stores.
I suggest that you have it pressed and or cleaned to see how it hangs.
Winston Churchill often wore a similar coat:

http://reddiablo.files.wordpress.com...-churchill.jpg
 

emptym

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Very nice! Too bad the weight and fit aren't right, since the style would suit you well.

If it were me, I'd be tempted to wash it in warm water w/ shampoo and conditioner, particularly if I wanted it to shrink... But it may ruin it. I've done that to some thrift store finds w/ mixed results.
 

Baron

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Originally Posted by emptym
Very nice! Too bad the weight and fit aren't right, since the style would suit you well.

If it were me, I'd be tempted to wash it in warm water w/ shampoo and conditioner, particularly if I wanted it to shrink... But it may ruin it. I've done that to some thrift store finds w/ mixed results.


I have to say that the fit isn't horrific - just spacious. Then again, the pockets seem a bit low - like the coat is too long for me (though the overall length seems correct.) I'm not gonna wash it - I've done that with sweaters but I don't want to do it with this. I'll post more pics later to get some feedback on the fit.
 

nioh

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The fabric looks great. As the shoulders and length is fine, you should try to have it altered.
 

comrade

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Originally Posted by emptym
Very nice! Too bad the weight and fit aren't right, since the style would suit you well.

If it were me, I'd be tempted to wash it in warm water w/ shampoo and conditioner, particularly if I wanted it to shrink... But it may ruin it. I've done that to some thrift store finds w/ mixed results.


Bad idea. It has a lining, etc . It should be dry-cleaned at a better dry-cleaners.
Such coats are very full. No contempo slim cut dreck here.

BTW, Do you travel to colder climates? I can't imagine ever wearing on in LA,
or the Bay Area, for that matter.
 

Baron

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I don't really have the need for a true overcoat, but I thought I could use a 3/4 length raglan coat like this, though this one is pretty heavy.

Anyone have any idea about the provenance or tailor or age?
 

RJman

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Nice coat.


Cue voxxx to chime in about UFT (Unidentified Florentine Tailor) Mario Zuccala.
 

radicaldog

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I looked up the address in Google Streetview: Via Edoardo Riboli 16033 Lavagna GE, Italy. Lavagna is a small town near Genoa. Judging from the neighborhood it's unlikely that there could have been a factory there, though I can't pinpoint the exact door because the numbers in the pictures are too small (and often a sartoria would be simply an apartment, without a shop front). And it's clearly hand stitched. So I'd say it's almost certainly bespoke. Good find. Coats in the 50s were cut quite roomy, or maybe this was for a paltry gentleman. Try to have it taken in at the sides and back.
 

emptym

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Originally Posted by Baron
I have to say that the fit isn't horrific - just spacious. Then again, the pockets seem a bit low - like the coat is too long for me (though the overall length seems correct.) I'm not gonna wash it - I've done that with sweaters but I don't want to do it with this. I'll post more pics later to get some feedback on the fit.
Originally Posted by comrade
Bad idea. It has a lining, etc . It should be dry-cleaned at a better dry-cleaners.
Such coats are very full. No contempo slim cut dreck here.

BTW, Do you travel to colder climates? I can't imagine ever wearing on in LA,
or the Bay Area, for that matter.

You guys are right. I know it would probably drastically alter the fit and that things may shrink at different rates. I've tried it three times. Twice it had no consequences, other than making the jackets a little smaller and a little slouchier. The third time it shrank the jacket a bit and the lining a lot. A tailor was able to let out the lining though.

Btw, my dad has a similar coat, but w/ a slightly louder pattern. He's had it since high school in the early 50's. I need to wear it and take a pic someday.
 

Baron

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I think I'm going to take it to Enzo Caruso and see if he thinks it can be altered successfully.
 

greekonomist

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It's a great style. Raglan coats are underrated IMO. I hope you can get it altered to fit. And I love that donegal tweed.
 

comrade

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Originally Posted by Baron
I think I'm going to take it to Enzo Caruso and see if he thinks it can be altered successfully.

Now you're talking.
I wish we had someone like him in the Bay Area.
 

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