Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[friendlygoz]

Mid 1980s AE St Denis with patina by yours truly.

 

[ojaw]

Mid 1980s AE St Denis with patina by yours truly. View attachment 1809832 View attachment 1809833 View attachment 1809834

You’ve had them since new?!

 

[friendlygoz]

If the soles don't have soft spots, I would recommend a rubber sole protector over it. This upgrade will extend the life of the soles a bit more and add some grip.

@friendlygoz has installed his own rubber sole protectors, so perhaps you can chat with him about the options and process.

Happy to help

 

[friendlygoz]

You’ve had them since new?!

No. I got them about 8 months ago. They were in near NOS condition when I got them.

 

[ojaw]

No. I got them about 8 months ago. They were in near NOS condition when I got them.

Oh, I thought that was 30+ years of your good usage!

 

[Satoman1]

New pair found today, vintage 1960s (?) Crosby Square, the shoes are in pretty good condition ,added to my collection

 

[ZePrez]

Hi

Back in the days when I didn't care about shoes, I "just" bought anything 10 D.. then I noticed these were too big, flopping around... About 8 years ago when I began to be more serious about shoes, I realized that 9.5 D could be my shoe size... thus most of my shoes are 9.5 D.... then, a couple of years ago, I started noticing 9E shoes fit me better than most 9.5D . 9E became my size .. I thus buy my shoes, new or vintage in that size, for vintage, I prefer 9E but will for the right shoe and availability get a 9.5D or E .. mind you 9.5D still fits me well enough but 9E is what I find most comfortable in a variety of lasts...
This week, on a stay in NYC, I went to a show store and had my feet measured on a Brannock Device.. multiple measurements later, the device says, I am a 10.5 D on both feet... I was wearing an Allen Edmonds Strandmok 9.5D , comfortable as it can be and had been walking for some miles (seriously) shopping around...
Whaaaat ...

What gives? I have kept only one 10.5D and it is too big, a Meermin, I have had 10 D Florsheim 93602 (too big), Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, (same), Mostly any shoes, I have tried in 10 D, let alone 10.5 D were too big... yet the device proclaimed my feet to be 10.5D... while I was wearing a pair of 9.5D shoes, with no discomfort...
Any explanation?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Question is a bit general but this group is so friendly and knowledgeable ...

 

[sam67]

Hi

Back in the days when I didn't care about shoes, I "just" bought anything 10 D.. then I noticed these were too big, flopping around... About 8 years ago when I began to be more serious about shoes, I realized that 9.5 D could be my shoe size... thus most of my shoes are 9.5 D.... then, a couple of years ago, I started noticing 9E shoes fit me better than most 9.5D . 9E became my size .. I thus buy my shoes, new or vintage in that size, for vintage, I prefer 9E but will for the right shoe and availability get a 9.5D or E .. mind you 9.5D still fits me well enough but 9E is what I find most comfortable in a variety of lasts...
This week, on a stay in NYC, I went to a show store and had my feet measured on a Brannock Device.. multiple measurements later, the device says, I am a 10.5 D on both feet... I was wearing an Allen Edmonds Strandmok 9.5D , comfortable as it can be and had been walking for some miles (seriously) shopping around...
Whaaaat ...

What gives? I have kept only one 10.5D and it is too big, a Meermin, I have had 10 D Florsheim 93602 (too big), Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, (same), Mostly any shoes, I have tried in 10 D, let alone 10.5 D were too big... yet the device proclaimed my feet to be 10.5D... while I was wearing a pair of 9.5D shoes, with no discomfort...
Any explanation?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Question is a bit general but this group is so friendly and knowledgeable ...

Could you have trained yourself to wear shoes that are too tight? Does your big toe joint look prominent in the shoe? Of course there will be a lot of variations with shoe lasts but I’m just guessing here.

 

[smfdoc]

Hi

Back in the days when I didn't care about shoes, I "just" bought anything 10 D.. then I noticed these were too big, flopping around... About 8 years ago when I began to be more serious about shoes, I realized that 9.5 D could be my shoe size... thus most of my shoes are 9.5 D.... then, a couple of years ago, I started noticing 9E shoes fit me better than most 9.5D . 9E became my size .. I thus buy my shoes, new or vintage in that size, for vintage, I prefer 9E but will for the right shoe and availability get a 9.5D or E .. mind you 9.5D still fits me well enough but 9E is what I find most comfortable in a variety of lasts...
This week, on a stay in NYC, I went to a show store and had my feet measured on a Brannock Device.. multiple measurements later, the device says, I am a 10.5 D on both feet... I was wearing an Allen Edmonds Strandmok 9.5D , comfortable as it can be and had been walking for some miles (seriously) shopping around...
Whaaaat ...

What gives? I have kept only one 10.5D and it is too big, a Meermin, I have had 10 D Florsheim 93602 (too big), Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, (same), Mostly any shoes, I have tried in 10 D, let alone 10.5 D were too big... yet the device proclaimed my feet to be 10.5D... while I was wearing a pair of 9.5D shoes, with no discomfort...
Any explanation?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Question is a bit general but this group is so friendly and knowledgeable ...

It sounds as if you have a single measurement against multiple examples of well fitting shoes of a different size. I suggest getting measured again by several other people. But no matter the numbers, the proof is what fits well and feels good on the feet.

 

[ccpl14]

Hi

Back in the days when I didn't care about shoes, I "just" bought anything 10 D.. then I noticed these were too big, flopping around... About 8 years ago when I began to be more serious about shoes, I realized that 9.5 D could be my shoe size... thus most of my shoes are 9.5 D.... then, a couple of years ago, I started noticing 9E shoes fit me better than most 9.5D . 9E became my size .. I thus buy my shoes, new or vintage in that size, for vintage, I prefer 9E but will for the right shoe and availability get a 9.5D or E .. mind you 9.5D still fits me well enough but 9E is what I find most comfortable in a variety of lasts...
This week, on a stay in NYC, I went to a show store and had my feet measured on a Brannock Device.. multiple measurements later, the device says, I am a 10.5 D on both feet... I was wearing an Allen Edmonds Strandmok 9.5D , comfortable as it can be and had been walking for some miles (seriously) shopping around...
Whaaaat ...

What gives? I have kept only one 10.5D and it is too big, a Meermin, I have had 10 D Florsheim 93602 (too big), Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, (same), Mostly any shoes, I have tried in 10 D, let alone 10.5 D were too big... yet the device proclaimed my feet to be 10.5D... while I was wearing a pair of 9.5D shoes, with no discomfort...
Any explanation?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Question is a bit general but this group is so friendly and knowledgeable ...

If you can get measured again - be sure to get the heel to ball measurement, not just the heel to toe measurement. They can be, and often are, different from each other.

 

[sam67]

92604

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Late 60s Florsheim Bourbon Windsor calf today.

View attachment 1809744

New pair found today, vintage 1960s (?) Crosby Square, the shoes are in pretty good condition ,added to my collection
View attachment 1809875 View attachment 1809876 View attachment 1809877 View attachment 1809878

Hi

Back in the days when I didn't care about shoes, I "just" bought anything 10 D.. then I noticed these were too big, flopping around... About 8 years ago when I began to be more serious about shoes, I realized that 9.5 D could be my shoe size... thus most of my shoes are 9.5 D.... then, a couple of years ago, I started noticing 9E shoes fit me better than most 9.5D . 9E became my size .. I thus buy my shoes, new or vintage in that size, for vintage, I prefer 9E but will for the right shoe and availability get a 9.5D or E .. mind you 9.5D still fits me well enough but 9E is what I find most comfortable in a variety of lasts...
This week, on a stay in NYC, I went to a show store and had my feet measured on a Brannock Device.. multiple measurements later, the device says, I am a 10.5 D on both feet... I was wearing an Allen Edmonds Strandmok 9.5D , comfortable as it can be and had been walking for some miles (seriously) shopping around...
Whaaaat ...

What gives? I have kept only one 10.5D and it is too big, a Meermin, I have had 10 D Florsheim 93602 (too big), Allen Edmonds Park Avenue, (same), Mostly any shoes, I have tried in 10 D, let alone 10.5 D were too big... yet the device proclaimed my feet to be 10.5D... while I was wearing a pair of 9.5D shoes, with no discomfort...
Any explanation?

Thanks in advance.

P.S. Question is a bit general but this group is so friendly and knowledgeable ...

It sounds as if you have a single measurement against multiple examples of well fitting shoes of a different size. I suggest getting measured again by several other people. But no matter the numbers, the proof is what fits well and feels good on the feet.

If you can get measured again - be sure to get the heel to ball measurement, not just the heel to toe measurement. They can be, and often are, different from each other.

@Hotel Cali. That’s a great color and relatively rare by comparison!

@Satoman1 Those are spectacular! Love them.

@ZePrez I feel your pain!

I wore 11-11.5 for years. I lost weight and my size changed. I always needed a slightly narrow size. Usually a C. I had been measured several times and was told I was about a 11C. But, within the last couple years I was able to wear 10.5D. The difference between an 11C and 10.5D is pretty minimal.

I was measured again for some Hoka Tennis Shoes and they told me 11.5-12. I know athletic shoes fit differently, but that was definitely too big. They did educate me on heel to ball measurement — essentially the length of the arch. I learned that the total length of the foot can measure a difference size than the arch length. My total length measures about an 11C. But, my arch length is more like 11.5C. I have discovered if I try to wear an 11.5, it is too long and I will trip going upstairs.

I think the bottom line is exactly what @smfdoc said. Use the brannock measurement as a GUIDE. But, rely on comfort and fit the most. I have finally figured out that while my arch length points to the next size up, I have to size down most of the time.

And as we always say, the last makes all the difference. In vintage Florsheim, Nettleton, and sometimes AE, I wear 11C. For modern AE I can go between 10.5D and 11C. For the larger Alden lasts I’m 10.5C or D and some of the narrrow lasts like Hampton and Aberdeen, I’m 11D.

 

[suitforcourt]

New pair found today, vintage 1960s (?) Crosby Square, the shoes are in pretty good condition ,added to my collection
View attachment 1809875 View attachment 1809876 View attachment 1809877 View attachment 1809878

What a fantastic pair!

 

[suitforcourt]

@Hotel Cali. That’s a great color and relatively rare by comparison!

@Satoman1 Those are spectacular! Love them.

@ZePrez I feel your pain!

I wore 11-11.5 for years. I lost weight and my size changed. I always needed a slightly narrow size. Usually a C. I had been measured several times and was told I was about a 11C. But, within the last couple years I was able to wear 10.5D. The difference between an 11C and 10.5D is pretty minimal.

I was measured again for some Hoka Tennis Shoes and they told me 11.5-12. I know athletic shoes fit differently, but that was definitely too big. They did educate me on heel to ball measurement — essentially the length of the arch. I learned that the total length of the foot can measure a difference size than the arch length. My total length measures about an 11C. But, my arch length is more like 11.5C. I have discovered if I try to wear an 11.5, it is too long and I will trip going upstairs.

I think the bottom line is exactly what @smfdoc said. Use the brannock measurement as a GUIDE. But, rely on comfort and fit the most. I have finally figured out that while my arch length points to the next size up, I have to size down most of the time.

And as we always say, the last makes all the difference. In vintage Florsheim, Nettleton, and sometimes AE, I wear 11C. For modern AE I can go between 10.5D and 11C. For the larger Alden lasts I’m 10.5C or D and some of the narrrow lasts like Hampton and Aberdeen, I’m 11D.

I have shoes and boots in 8.5ee, 8.5eee, 9E, 9EE, 9.5D, 9eee. Depending on the last, shoe, design, I can fit into different sizes comfortably.

 

[ZePrez]

Could you have trained yourself to wear shoes that are too tight? Does your big toe joint look prominent in the shoe? Of course there will be a lot of variations with shoe lasts but I’m just guessing here.

Nope... very sensitive feet, can't tolerate tight shoes... Throughout the years no bunions, corns or hammer toes... I've been lucky , perhaps. A bit flat footed though.

I am just curious about the discrepancy. I have settled on 9E as my size, but also am comfortable wearing 9.5D or E, if needs be, mostly old shoes I've had or vintage.. Not 10 though, that size, flexes, in an awkward fashion on my foot...