Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[smfdoc]

Have you noticed any minor fit differences across your 8 pairs. I currently have 1 pair of each but I have had another couple of pairs of 93602s in the past. I am about to resell my 97625s since they are a hair narrow for me. I should caution that they are a width narrower than my ideal size in Florsheim. However, I have worn this size in much more heavily worn in 93602s in the past. My 97625s are almost new so I am not sure if there is a slight size difference, it's a wear issue, or just unit variation irrespective of model.

I haven't noticed a leather thickness difference, although I have to admit that I hadn't thought to compare. The 97625s seem to more commonly have great color depth in the grain, which I am quite fond of.

I think the only constant in the construction of shoes is the solid last. Slight variations can occur in the uppers during construction and sewing on the sole. Then, with vintage shoes especially, time passes and drying of the leather with time can result in slight differences. Finally, we as humans, gain and lose weight and develop lower extremity edema that fluctuates with age, activity, circulation and other factors. If those were not sufficent variables we also wear socks different of differing thicknesses and some people are more sensitive to slight pressures and differences in the fit on our feet. It ends up a crap shoot shometimes and you keep the ones that you like and move the others on down the road.

 

[sam67]

Found a Florsheim Royal imperial saddle for flip. I’m pretty confident these are polished cobbler ,but I would say, in good shape

 

[Thomas Crown]

There are mixed blessings to having a large shoe collection (some would argue too many). One negative is sometimes I forget about a pair because I can’t keep all of them in one closet. However, the positive side is when I do pull out a pair I haven’t worn in a while, it’s a great surprise and almost a “rediscovery.”

That’s what happened with these AE Shark Shelton Saddle. They are vintage depending on how broad your definition of vintage. Either way, I figured this group would appreciate them.


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I want those socks!💀

 

[smfdoc]

Happy Thursday forum pals.

 

[smfdoc]

Just wondering… what’s with presenting your specific model code for the Florsheim longwings? I think the v-clear searcher is a cool idea, but… it’s basically the same shoe for 30+ years. The earliest models were definitely nicer (better leather, more exacting manufacture), but you’ve got to really hold them in your hands to see the difference. I’ve also seen what looks to be people that own the same identical shoe, but from different model years. Can someone explain that to me? Thanks.

Such an excellent question that I have decided to explore the subtle differences a bit further. Can any changes be seen between the 97625 Royal Imperial LWB from the early 1990s and the 97625 from the latter half of of 1990s that was rebadged as an Imperial? I'm not willing to do a teardown of two good shoes, but I shall assess as many external changes as I can find, if there is any interest.

 

[Jiqea]

FYI, there is no such thing as “Florsheim by McHale”. Except for the very first pairs made after Florsheim purchased McHale, they are Florsheim shoes being made in a former McHale factory. Materials, quality control, all that was made to Florsheim standards.

This is actually not the case for a couple of reason, and in my opinion it is quite reasonable to describe the Canadian made Florsheim Imperials as "Florsheim by McHale"..

First, it is inaccurate to state that Florsheim purchased McHale. In the first quarter of 1959 Scott-McHale was bought by the Canadian subsidiary of the Interco Company, Savage Shoes, of Cambridge Ontario. Savage had been purchased by Interco in the early 50's; 1954 I think. Interco also owned Florsheim, but it is incorrect to state that Florsheim bought McHale. The factory in London, first at the old Richmond and Horton location, and then later in the 60's at the new facility at Wellington and Exeter Road were both still branded as the "McHale". .

Second, while from 1959 until 1989 Florsheim shoes were made at the McHale factory based on US designs, they were given a unique McHale twist, which makes it very fair to describe them as Florsheim by McHale. On a closer inspection you will note that the McHale Florsheim Imperial will either have no nails in their soles, or seven nails, just like the John McHale custom shoes. The Imperials will always lack a V-cleat and will also have a doubled and stitched sock-liner edge just like the the top-line John McHales. Some runs of the Canadian made shoes are also beefier than their American counter parts with wider out soles and deeper fudging that is quite distinctive.

It is also interesting to note that while in my opinion the Canadian made Florsheim were a slightly better shoe than their American counterparts, they sold at a lower price point than the top line John McHale Custom shoes made in the same factory by the same skilled McHale craftsmen.

 

[ccpl14]

Does anyone know if Allen Edmonds ever made shoes for Marshall Fields back in the day?

 

[isshinryu101]

This is actually not the case for a couple of reason, and in my opinion it is quite reasonable to describe the Canadian made Florsheim Imperials as "Florsheim by McHale"..

First, it is inaccurate to state that Florsheim purchased McHale. In the first quarter of 1959 Scott-McHale was bought by the Canadian subsidiary of the Interco Company, Savage Shoes, of Cambridge Ontario. Savage had been purchased by Interco in the early 50's; 1954 I think. Interco also owned Florsheim, but it is incorrect to state that Florsheim bought McHale. The factory in London, first at the old Richmond and Horton location, and then later in the 60's at the new facility at Wellington and Exeter Road were both still branded as the "McHale". .

Second, while from 1959 until 1989 Florsheim shoes were made at the McHale factory based on US designs, they were given a unique McHale twist, which makes it very fair to describe them as Florsheim by McHale. On a closer inspection you will note that the McHale Florsheim Imperial will either have no nails in their soles, or seven nails, just like the John McHale custom shoes. The Imperials will always lack a V-cleat and will also have a doubled and stitched sock-liner edge just like the the top-line John McHales. Some runs of the Canadian made shoes are also beefier than their American counter parts with wider out soles and deeper fudging that is quite distinctive.

It is also interesting to note that while in my opinion the Canadian made Florsheim were a slightly better shoe than their American counterparts, they sold at a lower price point than the top line John McHale Custom shoes made in the same factory by the same skilled McHale craftsmen.

There’s quite a bit wrong about this. McHale designs and Florsheim designs are easily distinguishable. Florsheim making Florsheim shoes out of the McHale factory is NOT a McHale shoe. Because of the equipment being used in that factory, there were some small differences between those shoes and the other Florsheims, but that was more based on the EQUIPMENT in the factory. When we see a longwing gunboat, that’s pure Florsheim.

 

[hamercha]

There’s quite a bit wrong about this. McHale designs and Florsheim designs are easily distinguishable. Florsheim making Florsheim shoes out of the McHale factory is NOT a McHale shoe. Because of the equipment being used in that factory, there were some small differences between those shoes and the other Florsheims, but that was more based on the EQUIPMENT in the factory. When we see a longwing gunboat, that’s pure Florsheim.

From my very small size sampling of 3 McHale and 7 Florsheim longwing gunboat, I noticed that McHale has much thicker leather, and feels substantially heavier. So, either McHale have different suppliers there or have different construstion?

 

[Jiqea]

There’s quite a bit wrong about this. McHale designs and Florsheim designs are easily distinguishable. Florsheim making Florsheim shoes out of the McHale factory is NOT a McHale shoe. Because of the equipment being used in that factory, there were some small differences between those shoes and the other Florsheims, but that was more based on the EQUIPMENT in the factory. When we see a longwing gunboat, that’s pure Florsheim.

I don't think anyone here has any difficulty distinguishing between Florsheim and McHale design, nor do I believe anyone has said that a Florsheim shoe made in the McHale factory was anything other than a Florsheim. When some of us use the term "Florsheim by McHale" we are just using the term to distinguish between the Canadian and American made versions, as there are some interesting differences that appeal to some collectors.

I would love to learn more about your information regarding the equipment in the McHale factory. From what I have been able to learn it was the same United Shoe Machine Co. equipment that was standard in American factories. If you have any additional information please feel free to DM me.

Additionally if you would like to learn more about the dates of the Canadian shoes in your collection I would be happy to help out. I noticed some understandable inaccuracies in several of your past listings. We can certainly get closer than 15-20 years of the actual date of production.

 

[suitforcourt]

Evening event calls for shell. 97627s rebuilt with a package named after me - JR soles, cat paw heels, grommets, and toe taps.

 

[isshinryu101]

Does anyone know if Allen Edmonds ever made shoes for Marshall Fields back in the day?
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No. They did not

 

[isshinryu101]

I don't think anyone here has any difficulty distinguishing between Florsheim and McHale design, nor do I believe anyone has said that a Florsheim shoe made in the McHale factory was anything other than a Florsheim. When some of us use the term "Florsheim by McHale" we are just using the term to distinguish between the Canadian and American made versions, as there are some interesting differences that appeal to some collectors.

I would love to learn more about your information regarding the equipment in the McHale factory. From what I have been able to learn it was the same United Shoe Machine Co. equipment that was standard in American factories. If you have any additional information please feel free to DM me.

Additionally if you would like to learn more about the dates of the Canadian shoes in your collection I would be happy to help out. I noticed some understandable inaccuracies in several of your past listings. We can certainly get closer than 15-20 years of the actual date of production.

It’s Wishful Thinking. It’s a Florsheim shoe, made by Florsheim, in a formerly McHale factory. That’s not the same as McHale making a shoe for Florsheim. That would be like a Peal shoe by Edward Green.

that said, I do agree the Florsheim shoes made in the McHale factory were generally nicer than their US counterparts.

 

[isshinryu101]

1960’s Footjoy Turtle and Calf.

 

[memoriastoica]

Is anyone in love with Florsheim Varsity's? Model number 20686. NOS.