Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[sam67]

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[JohnMRobie]

For 99% of my leather rebuilds, I ask for JR. I will only ask for a cheaper house leather if I am having a sole protector added. Having shoes rebuilt is my second hobby.

Fear not - There are great alternatives out there. Check out Bakers out of the UK and Garat out of France. I prefer Bakers to JR and opt for them on shoes I have made if given the choice.

Interestingly JR seems to have the most popularity and notoriety amongst enthusiasts who are having shoes re-crafted but Bakers would likely beat them out among those placing new bespoke orders. Give them a shot.

 

[VAvintagewatches]

Since we discussed them recently, I’ve chosen the Mason Velvet-Eze today. Rock solid construction. Materials a notch below the better brands. Very comfortable, thanks to the velvet-eze cushioned insole.

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Mason really did have something going. Never handled a pair of Hanover or Florsheim (which I'm sure are significantly nicer) but my Executive Imperials feel every bit as solid as the Allen Edmonds I've handled, and are much more heavily built. I agree that the materials aren't great all around but they've got it where it counts. The uppers on mine are full grain, decent linings, soles seem pretty good, and the O'Sullivans heels are really durable and have great traction. They made a quality shoe for the everyman and I think that's more than respectable.

 

[CWOyaji]

Wore Hanover LB Sheppards for good luck, then a Salvation Army coughed up some AE MacNeils (9D) and catch and release on vintage Church’s black shortwings.

Let the Church’s go due to condition, price ($20) and black shortwings being slow movers in my experience.

 

[Nealjpage]

Taylor made imperial cleaned up well. I think it might be dinosaur leather. That might be the two mixed drinks talking it’s taken me to get this far though.
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I have a pair of TM Imperials. Nice shoe. My size, too. . .

 

[Nealjpage]

I picked up a few pairs of slacks today at Goodwill. One pair has cuffs. They all need to be hemmed.

What's the general rule on cuffed slacks these days?

 

[CWOyaji]

I'm a non-cuff guy for dress pants. Also, definitely non-pleats.

 

[sam67]

I picked up a few pairs of slacks today at Goodwill. One pair has cuffs. They all need to be hemmed.

What's the general rule on cuffed slacks these days?

I wear both.

 

[Nealjpage]

I'm a non-cuff guy for dress pants. Also, definitely non-pleats.

Non-pleated is hard to find around here, unless you're talking Dickies or Dockers.

 

[suitforcourt]

Fear not - There are great alternatives out there. Check out Bakers out of the UK and Garat out of France. I prefer Bakers to JR and opt for them on shoes I have made if given the choice.

Interestingly JR seems to have the most popularity and notoriety amongst enthusiasts who are having shoes re-crafted but Bakers would likely beat them out among those placing new bespoke orders. Give them a shot.

Other shoe enthusiasts have mentioned Baker. I will definitely give them a try. Garat as well.

Cobblers have mentioned Black Forest ans GR from Germany as decent.

 

[Nealjpage]

I wear both.

Do you pair cuffs with a certain type of shoe?

 

[suitforcourt]

I picked up a few pairs of slacks today at Goodwill. One pair has cuffs. They all need to be hemmed.

What's the general rule on cuffed slacks these days?

The universal rule: There are no rules. Wear what you want.

 

[sam67]

Do you pair cuffs with a certain type of shoe?

I wouldn't say so. Also has to work with whatever else I have on.

 

[Nealjpage]

The universal rule: There are no rules. Where what you want.

 

[friendlygoz]

Dack’s kudu wholecuts.