Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Quantum17]

For something that carries such lofty naming, and claims of hand lasting (which can mean different things to different shoe makers) the upper workmanship is not stellar. I’d also expect, for a top-of-the-line shoe from the late 70’s, full leather linings (something you got with Florsheim Imperials and LB Sheppard’s).

The other thing that concerns me is I can’t see the outline of a welt channel for the outsole top-stitch (though it might just be carefully channeled) and that sole doesn’t really look like it’s closed channel stitched to me.

Usually, even if it’s very faint, you can see the outline of where the feather was cut and the channel underneath:

The soles on those Cole Haan’s are just too smooth, especially given the rest of the shoe doesn’t scream George Cleverley or John Lobb from an execution standpoint.

You might be right about the close channel. It’s hard to tell from the post. However, seller has a similar pair in black size 13B with better sole pics, and they look too smooth. I wonder why trouble through “hand lasted” only to get glued on soles. Maybe I’m taking their advertising gimmick too literally. And full leather lining should be expected at that level (even though there are some great 50s 60s pairs that used cloth lining too).

 

[Oshare]

Here's the second pair of new arrivals that was recently caught by spousal customs. They are worth the probation period. I'll do my time -- hopefully finishing before the next scheduled pair arrives from Canada in a few weeks

The new arrivals on the left -- camel skin LWBs made in England by Stuart McGuire. These are probably vintage, again just a hunch judging by their construction and details rather than any date code. Full leather lining and quite nicely executed broguing and stitching... although, disappointingly, the welt and sole are vinyl. Style-wise I prefer an almond-shaped toe (like the miCanada Hartt camel skin PTDs on the right that I've had for a few months) but I can live with the occasional squared off toe box. Interestingly, both pairs have 4 eyelets.

The footbed is heavily indented, but pretty much conforms to my own feet. I gave them a thorough wiping inside and out with Lysol wipes, a good scrubbing with saddle soap and an electric toothbrush, followed by several rounds of Bick 4, and finally a coat of neutral Saphir cream polish. I think they are ready for their debut.

 

[suitforcourt]

Florsheim by John McHale. @CWOyaji gave the heads up on this pair. And @Jiqea advised these are one of the premier lines.

The gunboat welts are awesome.

 

[friendlygoz]

Wow, I’ll have to hunt those posts down, as that’s really neat!!

For your convenience

Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

How is the length/width relative to Florsheim? I'm wondering if these might work for me. I only have one pair of American made Florsheim; 93602's. I find them very comparable in terms of their fit with my McHales on the Bomber last. @Quantum17 might have a more informed opinion, as he has a...

www.styleforum.net

 

[happypebble]

New acquisition: "Roblee" brown single monk straps in 12D, original heels and soles. Any guesses as to age? Fit not bad. Will go well with my black City Club single monks.

 

[wasmisterfu]

Here's the second pair of new arrivals that was recently caught by spousal customs. They are worth the probation period. I'll do my time -- hopefully finishing before the next scheduled pair arrives from Canada in a few weeks

The new arrivals on the left -- camel skin LWBs made in England by Stuart McGuire. These are probably vintage, again just a hunch judging by their construction and details rather than any date code. Full leather lining and quite nicely executed broguing and stitching... although, disappointingly, the welt and sole are vinyl. Style-wise I prefer an almond-shaped toe (like the miCanada Hartt camel skin PTDs on the right that I've had for a few months) but I can live with the occasional squared off toe box. Interestingly, both pairs have 4 eyelets.

View attachment 1610091

View attachment 1610092

View attachment 1610093

The footbed is heavily indented, but pretty much conforms to my own feet. I gave them a thorough wiping inside and out with Lysol wipes, a good scrubbing with saddle soap and an electric toothbrush, followed by several rounds of Bick 4, and finally a coat of neutral Saphir cream polish. I think they are ready for their debut.

It’s interesting, when done with a wedge toe, a squared-off toe-box doesn’t look bad at all. I think those LWB’s are quite handsome. The AE 4 last (seen here on a funky color Polo) had a similar profile:

 

[wasmisterfu]

New acquisition: "Roblee" brown single monk straps in 12D, original heels and soles. Any guesses as to age? Fit not bad. Will go well with my black City Club single monks. View attachment 1610199 View attachment 1610200 View attachment 1610201 View attachment 1610202

Style says mid to late 1970’s, IMHO.

 

[happypebble]

Style says mid to late 1970’s, IMHO.

Thank you! The shape is pretty identical to my aforementioned City Clubs:

 

[wasmisterfu]

Thank you! The shape is pretty identical to my aforementioned City Clubs: View attachment 1610232

Ummm... errrr... sooooo... uhhhhh... I gotta ask, why U like square toe monk straps?

 

[happypebble]

Ummm... errrr... sooooo... uhhhhh... I gotta ask, why U like square toe monk straps?

Oh, I just haven't seen any other style around. I figured since I already had the black pair, a similar brown pair would complement them. They were both available and not excessively pricey, so why not.

 

[barutanseijin]

Ummm... errrr... sooooo... uhhhhh... I gotta ask, why U like square toe monk straps?

They go so well with puffy shirts.

 

[wasmisterfu]

They go so well with puffy shirts.

 

[Nealjpage]

Oh, I just haven't seen any other style around. I figured since I already had the black pair, a similar brown pair would complement them. They were both available and not excessively pricey, so why not.

This is a good as reason as any. Buy what you can and what you like.

 

[wasmisterfu]

Oh, I just haven't seen any other style around. I figured since I already had the black pair, a similar brown pair would complement them. They were both available and not excessively pricey, so why not.

 

[right_hook]

I already have a pretty nice pair of 93605s, but this seller has made a very fair offer on these. Not sure I need another pair of shell LWBs. Does anyone see anything particularly troubling on these?

Florsheim Imperial Shell Cordovan Oxford Wingtips Shoes 93605. SZ 13 A | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Florsheim Imperial Shell Cordovan Oxford Wingtips Shoes 93605. SZ 13 A at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

Current inventory:

• Cordwainer Wright shell LWB - #8
• Keith Highlander shell LWB - #8
• Florsheim 93605 shell LWB - #8
• AE MacNeil shell LWB - #8
• AE MacNeil shell LWB - black

Also shortwings:

• E.T. Wright shell SWO - #8
• Alden shell SWO - #8
• AE Cambridge shell SWO - #8
• AE Cambridge shell SWO - #8
• AE Cambridge shell SWO - #8

I imagine I've missed an additional pair or two of wingtips. My memory isn't what it used to be, and I'm too lazy to walk to the other side of the house to confirm.

You should expect such answers asking us about buying another shoes:
- "of course you need one more pair of shoes";
- "always buy lwb's if you see them";
- "it doesn't matter that you already have a pretty nice pair of 93605";
- "you'd better to be always sure that you need another pair of shell lwb";
- "you have only 10 pairs of shell shoes and this should be fixed immediately";
- "if it fits - it ships!" finally!