Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Leiker]

I just picked up these 1983 AE McGregor model 0660 off of David’s list. Thank you, sir @davidVC . Love the pebble grain & 7 eyelets. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find them in 82, 83 or 84 AE catalog. Maybe it was for a trunk show.
Gotta love 80s AEs. They are cool!
View attachment 1605528 View attachment 1605529 View attachment 1605530

Great color

 

[stook1]

I just picked up these 1983 AE McGregor model 0660 off of David’s list. Thank you, sir @davidVC . Love the pebble grain & 7 eyelets. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find them in 82, 83 or 84 AE catalog. Maybe it was for a trunk show.
Gotta love 80s AEs. They are cool!
View attachment 1605528 View attachment 1605529 View attachment 1605530

Those are an awesome pickup. Coincidentally, I was just looking at that pair on his sold list and was wondering who might have snagged 'em.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Here are my first Stuart Macquire Shell.

@sam67 offered them at a bargain price. The quality is better than I expected as some SM that I have seen are pretty cheaply made. I am pleased.

The Shell uppers don’t have much wear. But, there is some mysterious spotting.

I used some Renovateur and then followed it up with Saphir cream. When I put on the cream, the spots almost disappeared. But, after bushing the spots returned. These are not like typical lighter colored areas on Shell. These are like a spot that was caused by something like a stripper? What could cause this on Shell?


Other than using Cordovan cream (with lots of pigment) is there anyway to address this?

The sizing is really odd too. @sam67 noticed it too. The size shows “4105”. Which would equate to a 10.5D. But, they feel like an 11+ and at least E.

 

[stook1]

Here are my first Stuart Macquire Shell.

@sam67 offered them at a bargain price. The quality is better than I expected as some SM that I have seen are pretty cheaply made. I am pleased.

View attachment 1605661 View attachment 1605662

The Shell uppers don’t have much wear. But, there is some mysterious spotting.

I used some Renovateur and then followed it up with Saphir cream. When I put on the cream, the spots almost disappeared. But, after bushing the spots returned. These are not like typical lighter colored areas on Shell. These are like a spot that was caused by something like a stripper? What could cause this on Shell?


Other than using Cordovan cream (with lots of pigment) is there anyway to address this?

The sizing is really odd too. @sam67 noticed it too. The size shows “4105”. Which would equate to a 10.5D. But, they feel like an 11+ and at least E.


View attachment 1605693 View attachment 1605695

That's pretty strange looking and I'm not going to hazard a guess as to the cause. I don't recommend trying to use tinted creams since I don't think the results will be nearly as good as stripping and re-dye them. It's not difficult. I just went through this with a pair of AEs that I posted here a couple weeks ago and they really came out pretty great.

This is the pair I was talking about...

Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Alden shell chukkas for the trip to the farmers market, on my birthday.

www.styleforum.net

 

[Oshare]

I just picked up these 1983 AE McGregor model 0660 off of David’s list. Thank you, sir @davidVC . Love the pebble grain & 7 eyelets. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find them in 82, 83 or 84 AE catalog. Maybe it was for a trunk show.
Gotta love 80s AEs. They are cool!
View attachment 1605528 View attachment 1605529 View attachment 1605530

Wish I didn't need to sleep. I would just refresh David's list and eBay constantly all day.

Nice score!

 

[sam67]

These have been resoled but was the new sole glued since you can't see any stitching or its it hidden? My guess is glued. I guess once a shoe is resoled you can't tell how many lives it has left, right? Any info appreciated.

 

[Nealjpage]

Wish I didn't need to sleep. I would just refresh David's list and eBay constantly all day.

Nice score!

22 minutes! That's pretty close to a record.

 

[Quantum17]

These have been resoled but was the new sole glued since you can't see any stitching or its it hidden? My guess is glued. I guess once a shoe is resoled you can't tell how many lives it has left, right? Any info appreciated.

View attachment 1605849

It’s been half resoled. Since heels are original, I’m sure the soles are still original. I think it’s a little bit better than putting on plastic sole protector since it’s leather.

 

[JFWR]

Here they are, American Gentleman 11D. Looks like the same medallion design as yours. They're corrected grain, but you can see how they're breaking in after 5 wears, and I walk a lot. Seems to be a decent qualilty CG.

Question for you: these fit higher than any of my other shoes around the ankle; I suppose I might need a half size bigger, or one size wider, but they fit great other than that. It's not a big problem, just has caused some rubbing that is getting better as they break in. View attachment 1605466

Put a bandaid on your ankles to avoid blisters.

 

[MontyLo]

Anybody know if there’s a way to replace faux lacing that’s been ripped out of a pair of lazyman oxfords without extensive deconstruction ?

 

[davidVC]

I just picked up these 1983 AE McGregor model 0660 off of David’s list. Thank you, sir @davidVC . Love the pebble grain & 7 eyelets. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find them in 82, 83 or 84 AE catalog. Maybe it was for a trunk show.
Gotta love 80s AEs. They are cool!
View attachment 1605528 View attachment 1605529 View attachment 1605530

Glad you bought them. I have the same pair. Great shoes. Classic Allen Edmonds.

 

[Sartoriamo]

This seller has some crazy prices. I have watched a couple pairs of his for a long time. I have always figured, if he can get crazy prices for them, good for him.

But, I still don’t understand this pair.

NEW- FLORSHEIM IMPERIAL Full Brogue Derby Budapester (Brown) Cir.1985: 11D-44.5D | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for NEW- FLORSHEIM IMPERIAL Full Brogue Derby Budapester (Brown) Cir.1985: 11D-44.5D at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

He describes them at a Budapester. I think that is sort of an apocryphal name for the style. I think there are other brands where a gunboat and a Budapester might be different. These do not show the style number. But, aren’t these just a 93602?

Yeah, here's the lowdown on the Budapester:

Leather shoes: all about the "Budapest" model

With small perforations and open lacing, here's a handy guide to recognising the brogues and "Budapest" shoe model.

www.melvin-hamilton.com

Interesting that those who live in Budapest call them "Karlsbaders". As regards earlski, that's Earl Adkins, who appears to be am SF, US-based proxy for Sevan Minasian, the proprietor of classicshoesformen.com. Yeah, they get great prices, and Sevan knows his stuff as well as any of us. Impeccable management and knowledge commands stellar pricing for those for whom price is not an object. I would never pay these prices but I recognize that there are those who do. Good for him! And yes, full disclosure: as a reseller, there are certain shoes that are best placed with Sevan, and when it makes sense, I will do it. YMMV. of course.

 

[friendlygoz]

Dack’s camel ? short wings today.

 

[JFWR]

Here are my first Stuart Macquire Shell.

@sam67 offered them at a bargain price. The quality is better than I expected as some SM that I have seen are pretty cheaply made. I am pleased.

View attachment 1605661 View attachment 1605662

The Shell uppers don’t have much wear. But, there is some mysterious spotting.

I used some Renovateur and then followed it up with Saphir cream. When I put on the cream, the spots almost disappeared. But, after bushing the spots returned. These are not like typical lighter colored areas on Shell. These are like a spot that was caused by something like a stripper? What could cause this on Shell?


Other than using Cordovan cream (with lots of pigment) is there anyway to address this?

The sizing is really odd too. @sam67 noticed it too. The size shows “4105”. Which would equate to a 10.5D. But, they feel like an 11+ and at least E.


View attachment 1605693 View attachment 1605695

What causes the discolouration of the shell like that? Is it fixable with cordovan polish?

 

[Nobleprofessor]

That's pretty strange looking and I'm not going to hazard a guess as to the cause. I don't recommend trying to use tinted creams since I don't think the results will be nearly as good as stripping and re-dye them. It's not difficult. I just went through this with a pair of AEs that I posted here a couple weeks ago and they really came out pretty great.

This is the pair I was talking about...

Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Alden shell chukkas for the trip to the farmers market, on my birthday.

www.styleforum.net

I remember seeing that post. I presume you used Acetone to strip them. What did you use for the burgundy/#8 dye? I have used Fiebings and Angelus. I’m sure one of them makes a #8 type color.

OR, maybe I should try a different color Shell! I have many #8. Perhaps it’s time for something different.