Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Nealjpage]

Not the highest quality box but now I have one.

 

[Nealjpage]

OK, who bought these? I was just on my way to pull the trigger and they're gone. ?

Probably just as well--I was probably pushing my luck smuggling two pairs through spousal customs this week.

 

[Nealjpage]

After the fourth application of neatsfoot oil, and brushing.

I decided to use some Bick 4 on them. I think "slather" is the proper verb. Here's an interesting observation. I figured that all of the NF would've saturated the shell and that the Bick would just sit on the surface, slowly soaking in. But it didn't. The shell sucked it right in; the outside was almost totally dry by the time I finished the interior. Here it is after a second slathering.

And the control shoe is on the right. Notice the dab of Bick on the vamp?

I put that there when I put the first coat on the experimental shoe. It didn't soak in much.

Hypothesis: dried out shell doesn't readily accept leather creams. The shell must first be rehydrated with NF for Bick to be effective. Thoughts?

 

[Oshare]

Sure, it's scientific! Recording your observations will only help you refine your process. I found it interesting that you are avoiding the shoe tree at this time. I had no idea that could be enough force to cause a crack. So, thanks for writing out your process. Best of luck!

Putting shoe trees in old and dry shell can definitely cause cracks — speaking from experience.

I put trees into a NOS pair of Hanover shell PTBs and the heel cracked. Still regret that to this day

 

[CWOyaji]

Horween takes six months to prepare shells for use in making shoes, and as I recall it involves soaking in vats of oils for much of that time how they do it. If a shoe has dried out it's going to be tough to penetrate deep into the membrane from just the outside since it's not porous. I've had the best success keeping the shoes warm with a heating pad set to low and rubbing in NF oil and the like over a week, all wrapped up in a towel and a plastic bag to keep the moisture in. Don't let pigmented plastic bags touch the shell with moisture present or there could be color transfer, so I've heard.

 

[Nealjpage]

Horween takes six months to prepare shells for use making shoes, and as I recall it involves soaking in vats of oils for much of that time how they do it. If a shoe has dried out it's going to be tough to penetrate deep into the membrane from just the outside since it's not porous. I've had the best success keeping the shoes warm with a heating pad set to low and rubbing in NF oil and the like over a week, all wrapped up in a towel and a plastic bag to keep the moisture in. Don't let pigmented plastic bags touch the shell with moisture present or there could be color transfer, so I've heard.

I wonder if the soaking method @davidVC illustrates on his blog could be improved with the addition of glycerin to the soaking water when dealing with extremely dry shell.

 

[Quantum17]

In coming camels; oddly from the west not the east. A bit of Bicks and some black edge dressing and these shoes will pop. The plastic Dack's trees will be my first in this style. Laugh if you will, but plastic and metal trees are great for travelling to keep the weight down.

View attachment 1501782 View attachment 1501783

Somehow, I am always wary when hear "In coming camels" in a crowded forum. These camels are gorgeous, however.

 

[Quantum17]

After the fourth application of neatsfoot oil, and brushing.
View attachment 1502015

I decided to use some Bick 4 on them. I think "slather" is the proper verb. Here's an interesting observation. I figured that all of the NF would've saturated the shell and that the Bick would just sit on the surface, slowly soaking in. But it didn't. The shell sucked it right in; the outside was almost totally dry by the time I finished the interior. Here it is after a second slathering.
View attachment 1502018

And the control shoe is on the right. Notice the dab of Bick on the vamp?
View attachment 1502019

I put that there when I put the first coat on the experimental shoe. It didn't soak in much.
View attachment 1502022

Hypothesis: dried out shell doesn't readily accept leather creams. The shell must first be rehydrated with NF for Bick to be effective. Thoughts?

This is a wonderful thread. Coincidentally, I recently acquired a NOS Nettleton shell. I shell be following your footsteps

 

[Thomas Crown]

I wonder if the soaking method @davidVC illustrates on his blog could be improved with the addition of glycerin to the soaking water when dealing with extremely dry shell.

As much as I dig the shoe Appreciation on this thread,my favorite part of this group is when someone puts on the lab coat and details their experiments for the rest of us. Thanks @Nealjpage -I’m looking forward to how this turns out! Knowledge is power,figuring out the most solid approach to revitalizing and protecting vintage shell will be as thrilling as when I first successfully restored my white bucks after a destructive 4th of July cookout!

 

[Joe Wohkittel]

Robo bids are coming in too fast. The good stuff seems to sell in minutes. The time from posts to sales is so low I knew something was happening. It's lame, but we live in a lame world these days. Im going to start testing out apps that are supposed to constantly scan ebay and provide you with instant updates for your search criteria such as this:

Web Alert (Website Monitor) - Apps on Google Play

Be notified when a website of your choice is changed. Works even with logins!

play.google.com

I just read ebay alerts only cycles every 6 hours, which explains alot. I guess "web alerts" is faster too. Anyways, I'm way behind the curve as usual! I'll report back.

 

[Joe Wohkittel]

Here we are after brushing after the third application of neatsfoot.
View attachment 1501933

Detail.
View attachment 1501934

I did a fourth application, which didn't absorb as quickly.
View attachment 1501935

View attachment 1501936

I think that I'll hit it with Bick 4 now, then wet with glycerin saddle soap, and tree while still wet. Hopefully I can reshape it a bit that way.

I'm unsure about saddle soap. I use Saphir's milder soap and feel even that can be too much. I've read a number of things about using glycerin on leather and like everything else, some love it while others hate it. My understanding is that it helps moisture penetrate into the leather, which can be helpful to soften dry leather, but it also potentially weakens the leather fibers over the long term.

 

[Nealjpage]

I'm unsure about saddle soap. I use Saphir's milder soap and feel even that can be too much. I've read a number of things about using glycerin on leather and like everything else, some love it while others hate it. My understanding is that it helps moisture penetrate into the leather, which can be helpful to soften dry leather, but it also potentially weakens the leather fibers over the long term.

Saddle soap seems to be a wedge issue. Russell Moccasin recommends it for their footwear, for what it's worth.

Custom Made for More than 100 Years

www.russellmoccasin.com

I wouldn't use soap every time I polish, but for most of the shoes I encounter, they are dirty and abused and need a good bath. I always follow up with conditioning, too.

 

[sam67]

Saw this in the 1970 catalog and there is actually one listed. Don't know how long it was made. 10B.

ALLEN EDMONDS SARATOGA NASSAU SHARKSKIN WINGTIP CHOCOLATE BROWN 10B 4.25Wide | eBay

<p>A very Rare Design and Color, with heavy Sharkskin wrinkles and color Variations, People will fill you with Compliments on this one of a kind Vintage shoe. Large Perferations in wingtip design. Lace Ties very good uppers, see pictures Excellent no fault see pictures Used</p>

www.ebay.com

 

[stook1]

This is a wonderful thread. Coincidentally, I recently acquired a NOS Nettleton shell. I shell be following your footsteps

post pics!

 

[Quantum17]

post pics!

Yes sir ? It’s this pair, and it should arrive on Tuesday. I cannot wait to share my own pics ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nettleton-...-/133544830472?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292