Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Hotel Cali]

Maybe not the case here, but you don't want to be the dog that caught the car.
Shill bidding

I think the seller and buyer are in legitimate arm's length transaction. I made an offer around $65 as BIN and the seller considered but was already stuck with one opening bid.

I am guessing the surviving Banister family members may be the bid winner.

 

[greekgeek]

View attachment 1484602

Impressive, in two colors even. Might be the best shoe of all time which I have seen from the US makers. Just classic all round.

 

[Hotel Cali]

I think this is a good looking vintage AE monkstrap.

Allen Edmonds Mens Burgundy Dress Shoes Hermitage Monk Strap 10E NIB (166D) | eBay

ALASKA, HAWAII & PUERTO RICO may be higher.

www.ebay.com

Anyone wear vintage monkstrap/buck shoes (not boots)?

 

[Nobleprofessor]

View attachment 1484602

Impressive, in two colors even. Might be the best shoe of all time which I have seen from the US makers. Just classic all round.

Those are great looking shoes! I don’t know much about Edwin Clapp — other than the fact that I have lusted after some of the Alligator/Crocodile styles I have seen. I guess if they could be some of the best shoes of all time, I need to take a closer look at them!

 

[vestbash]

Check out these Florsheim Imperial plain toe boots. I have seen a lot Florsheim boots but I don't remember seeing another pair like this. Looks like they were made in the late 1960s based on the construction. Quality leather.

VTG RARE FLORSHEIM IMPERIAL PEBBLE GRAIN CUSTOM GRADE CHUKKA BOOTS 10 | eBay

_gsrx_vers_1247 (GS 8.2 (1247)).

www.ebay.com

WOW. Anyone here nab these?

 

[hamercha]

Finishing off the last of my blue collection this week. These are 1950's Mansfield longwing spectators. Mansfield was a lower level line made by Bostonian. The materials definitely feel cheaper than I'm used to from that era, but still a nice shoe and it's rare to find a longwing ventilated spectator. View attachment 1484378 View attachment 1484379 View attachment 1484380 View attachment 1484381

"The materials definitely feel cheaper than I'm used to from that era, but still a nice shoe and it's rare to find a longwing ventilated spectator. "

The stitching SPI is very high and appears to be very clean. In what way, do you feel this as a cheaper shoe? From the picture, the leather appears little stiffer and thinner to me.

 

[mormonopoly]

"The materials definitely feel cheaper than I'm used to from that era, but still a nice shoe and it's rare to find a longwing ventilated spectator. "

The stitching SPI is very high and appears to be very clean. In what way, do you feel this as a cheaper shoe? From the picture, the leather appears little stiffer and thinner to me.

The leather and materials just feel a little more plasticky and less supple than the nice leathers I’m used to on 50s shoes. They’re definitely much nicer than what you see on most stuff from the 70s/80s onwards though.

 

[stook1]

Not sure if this has come up before but does anyone have a point of view on specific brands or formulations of neatsfoot oil? My bottle of Lexol neatsfoot oil is about done for after using it on a dryish pair of NOS 93605s (pics in the near future, they're absorbing some Bick4 right now).

Anyway, I am considering reupping my supply of neatsfoot and hitting this pair with a few more coats. The Lexol formulation includes some other ingredients and I am not sure if going with a straight neatsfoot oil might be better. Anyone ever try more than one brand and have an opinion?

I'm slightly paranoid about this pair because the quarters and brogue trim in the heel area were both relatively dry vs. the rest of the shoes and, of course, these are common failure points for shell.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Here is one you don’t see everyday (which is ironic considering the name):

These are vintage AE “Tom, Dick, and Harry.”

Some of you may remember someone posting these when they were for sale. I bought them from a great eBay seller who is also one of our members.

Someone else also found an old AE Catalog that showed the age.

They are in exceptional condition. They appear to have been worn once or twice. Unfortunately for me, they are too long and wide for me now. They are 11.5D if anyone is interested.

 

[Hotel Cali]

Wearing these 1940s black shell cordovan.

 

[suitforcourt]

Last 3 pairs have arrived.

Finally found 9662 in my size. Pretty good shape and not a lot of wear.

I've been concentrating on boots as WFH is likely my future existence for years to come.

LL Bean Katahdin, by Chippewa. I love Chippewa boots. They fit my feet well, and I find them comfortable. This pair has little wear, and no footprint inside.

The much celebrated Red Wing Iron Rangee 8111, in amber harness. Also little wear but man, these are STIFF. Break in will be painful.

 

[stook1]

Check out these Florsheim Imperial plain toe boots. I have seen a lot Florsheim boots but I don't remember seeing another pair like this. Looks like they were made in the late 1960s based on the construction. Quality leather.

VTG RARE FLORSHEIM IMPERIAL PEBBLE GRAIN CUSTOM GRADE CHUKKA BOOTS 10 | eBay

_gsrx_vers_1247 (GS 8.2 (1247)).

www.ebay.com

Cannot believe I missed these!! Hopefully someone from the forum snagged them.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Last 3 pairs have arrived.

Finally found 9662 in my size. Pretty good shape and not a lot of wear.

I've been concentrating on boots as WFH is likely my future existence for years to come.

LL Bean Katahdin, by Chippewa. I love Chippewa boots. They fit my feet well, and I find them comfortable. This pair has little wear, and no footprint inside.

The much celebrated Red Wing Iron Rangee 8111, in amber harness. Also little wear but man, these are STIFF. Break in will be painful.
View attachment 1484966 View attachment 1484967 View attachment 1484968 View attachment 1484970 View attachment 1484972 View attachment 1484974 View attachment 1484975 View attachment 1484976 View attachment 1484977

View attachment 1484967

Good looking pairs!

I have been trying to find a pair of boots like I used to have.

I can’t remember if they were Eastland or Timberland.

They were sort of a dressy hiking boot or a heavy duty chukka. It’s hard to describe.

They were sort of like this boot, but with a more rugged sole:

Or they were like this pair, but they were taller and they had a strap and buckle like a monkstrap.

Anybody know what style I’m talking about? I wore those for years! They made it through winters in high school and college and took a beating. The sole was so rugged it never wore out. But, the buckle came off and I had to repair the apron tie stitching with thread and fishing line. If it helps, I bought them probably around 1990.

 

[hamercha]

Good looking pairs!

I have been trying to find a pair of boots like I used to have.

I can’t remember if they were Eastland or Timberland.

They were sort of a dressy hiking boot or a heavy duty chukka. It’s hard to describe.

They were sort of like this boot, but with a more rugged sole:

View attachment 1485005
Or they were like this pair, but they were taller and they had a strap and buckle like a monkstrap.

View attachment 1485008
Anybody know what style I’m talking about? I wore those for years! They made it through winters in high school and college and took a beating. The sole was so rugged it never wore out. But, the buckle came off and I had to repair the apron tie stitching with thread and fishing line. If it helps, I bought them probably around 1990.

I worked in the shoe store in late 90's. Eastland made one model of boot with the lug sole and buckle on the side. I do not remember seeing such boot on Timberland's catalog from 90's onward.

Eastland model look little bit like your first picture with the sole like that of the second picture.

 

[stook1]

Good looking pairs!

I have been trying to find a pair of boots like I used to have.

I can’t remember if they were Eastland or Timberland.

They were sort of a dressy hiking boot or a heavy duty chukka. It’s hard to describe.

They were sort of like this boot, but with a more rugged sole:

View attachment 1485005
Or they were like this pair, but they were taller and they had a strap and buckle like a monkstrap.

View attachment 1485008
Anybody know what style I’m talking about? I wore those for years! They made it through winters in high school and college and took a beating. The sole was so rugged it never wore out. But, the buckle came off and I had to repair the apron tie stitching with thread and fishing line. If it helps, I bought them probably around 1990.

Look into Rancourt and Quoddy. I personally prefer Rancourt, although I don't have this style boot from either company (just my preference from boat shoe purchases). Both makers are very high quality. I am sure there are other options as well but these are both good companies to deal with and made by hand in maine. By the way, if you REALLY want to go crazy, Rancourt will make these in shell cordovan. They would be amazing, I am sure.