Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[madhat]

I don't feel strongly about changing the color. This is my first experience with cordovan. I just learned that they fade! So I'm really just asking about management practices. Is the fading kind of a badge that you've had them a while? Thanks for the input.

Yes. Fading generally means you've worn them a lot. It's becoming a big thing on the Alden thread to sun fade. It's a poor man's way of achieving "rare"/lighter shell colors using readily available #8

 

[stook1]

I don't feel strongly about changing the color. This is my first experience with cordovan. I just learned that they fade! So I'm really just asking about management practices. Is the fading kind of a badge that you've had them a while? Thanks for the input.

If you use cordovan creme polish sparingly it will even out the color a little bit. It's really personal preference. The vamps have a lot of color variation. Personally, I really like how they look but they are your shoes, of course.

 

[woofmang]

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You're probably tired of me talking about these no-name cordovans but here is what they looked like under all the gunk. How much will colored cordovan cream subdue the fading? Thanks.

Count me in with the "I think they look great as is" crowd. Nice job!

 

[Nealjpage]

Yes. Fading generally means you've worn them a lot. It's becoming a big thing on the Alden thread to sun fade. It's a poor man's way of achieving "rare"/lighter shell colors using readily available #8

Weird. I have a pair of #8s that are probably from the 1950s and they're still dark, almost eggplant, purple. Maybe that's because they were covered with pounds of black shoe polish, which prevented sun fade?

 

[Nealjpage]

Fantastic! 1991 probably right??

Probably 2001. Wasn't AE still using the "Handcrafted World of Allen Edmonds" in the early 1990s?

 

[jpm1]

Probably 2001. Wasn't AE still using the "Handcrafted World of Allen Edmonds" in the early 1990s?

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You are right. Although the All caps logo ran from ‘82-‘88. They moved to capital A and E with the rest lower case in ‘89. Those MacNeil are likely’01

 

[madhat]

Weird. I have a pair of #8s that are probably from the 1950s and they're still dark, almost eggplant, purple. Maybe that's because they were covered with pounds of black shoe polish, which prevented sun fade?

Yup. People that don't know what shell is will cover it in wax, which would stop fading. Fading occurs with sun exposure much faster than interior lighting, so if you're just sitting in an office you won't see much fade either.
Alternatively, they want the dark finish and occasionally apply burgundy cream to hold color. If you send a pair of faded #8 into AE or Alden for recraft, they will come back refinished modern dark #8 unless you get lucky and they catch your request to not refinish uppers.

 

[stook1]

You are right. Although the All caps logo ran from ‘82-‘88. They moved to capital A and E with the rest lower case in ‘89. Those MacNeil are likely’01

You know what --- I had a bit of a brain freeze. I think 2001 was the conclusion on the ae thread, actually.

 

[Joe Wohkittel]

I'm going to sell these Bostonian Challengers, size 10 D. The soles and closed channel stitching are in great shape, but the uppers have problems. Cracking in the strap lining and surface at the break point and a very poor repair job at the heel. They look to me like someone found them NOS and wore them without conditioning them. They arn't my size, but I bout them because they are fantastic style-wise. Feel free to make offers, it rather sell them to someone who will fix them up and wear them.

Also a question, how have you guys cared for this old "russet brown" kind of leather that has a sort of soft lacquer? It seems like this was commonly used until the 50s, especially on military shoes and is difficult to penetrate with conditioner. I've had bad luck trying to remove the finish with acetone in the past.

 

[Joe Wohkittel]

I also posted these on eBay. Not as nice as earlier Jarmans, but not as crappy as later Jarmans either. I'd take $20+shipping.

 

[CWOyaji]

Can’t see the forest for the trees

 

[Oshare]

Recently snapped up a pair of black shell Macneils. I am pretty sure these meet the threshold for vintage. I suspect they've only been worn a couple times. They were a steal given the minimal wear.

These got my usual cleanup routine - wipe down, 2x bick4, 1x VSC...brushing.

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Beauties!

What is the color on those? They look more navy than black.

And isn't 9-1/2 EE too small for you?

If they don't fit, please PM me!

 

[madhat]

Beauties!

What is the color on those? They look more navy than black.

And isn't 9-1/2 EE too small for you?

If they don't fit, please PM me!

Definitely black based on that model number - looks like over cast conditions

 

[stook1]

Beauties!

What is the color on those? They look more navy than black.

And isn't 9-1/2 EE too small for you?

If they don't fit, please PM me!

Yes, as @madhat said they are black shell. I have to admit that I've been a black shell skeptic for years. Then I flipped two pairs of black shell florsheims that I recently stumbled upon and decided that I should add a pair. I'd actually say that black shell, despite what one might think, are almost a deep gray/black.

Anyway, as for the sizing, these were a bit of a gamble. About a year ago I restored a pair of 10D macneils pictured below (damn those were nice)... that I sold to another member since I was getting some buckling around the ankle that bugged me. Truth be told, I think my ideal size might be a 10E but my pinky toes are small so the 9.5EE seems like it may be ok despite the toe shape. Need an extended wear --- I haven't even tried them laced yet.

 

[madhat]

Yes, as @madhat said they are black shell. I have to admit that I've been a black shell skeptic for years. Then I flipped two pairs of black shell florsheims that I recently stumbled upon and decided that I should add a pair. I'd actually say that black shell, despite what one might think, are almost a deep gray/black.

Anyway, as for the sizing, these were a bit of a gamble. About a year ago I restored a pair of 10D macneils pictured below (damn those were nice)... that I sold to another member since I was getting some buckling around the ankle that bugged me. Truth be told, I think my ideal size might be a 10E but my pinky toes are small so the 9.5EE seems like it may be ok despite the toe shape. Need an extended wear --- I haven't even tried them laced yet.

Agree totally on black shell; if you want true black go calf. If you want a more dynamic black, almost charcoal grey, go shell.