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madhat

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pen trick? What's that? I have a couple pairs that need to be just a smidge wider at the widest part of the foot/of the shoe.
I insert my trees into freshly worn (warm/wet) shoes and put a pen on the outside of the tree, basically acting like a large bunion bump on a shoe stretcher. Allows my poor pinkies to not be crushed.
Crude but effective.
IMG_20200606_105746.jpg


Disclaimer: I take no responsibility for any damage caused, especially if you get aggressive with shell as shown
 

Nealjpage

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Yeah, and if I remember correctly, in such cases it was either a very rare shoe, or the owner had some sentimental attachment to the shoe. Separating the insole from the upper takes you from heavy recraft territory, deep into a full remake of the shoe. Put simply, the insoles in a welted shoe are not intended to be removed for the lifetime of the shoe.

That said, as your shoe ages, use cedar trees and occasionally (once or twice a year) condition the insoles, and the insoles will outlast the rest of the shoe.
Wow. This whole time I just figured that the insoles were glued in after the shoe was constructed. I've seen a few where stitching is visible, but never AE. So, to sum up, the rib is glued to the bottom of the insole and then everything else is built off that?
 

CWOyaji

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I use these stick-on floor protectors and place them in the spots that are tight, usually on my right foot which is a little wider. My left foot’s longer and I’ve had success putting bumpers up on the toe, even piling up two of them. Then lengthening with the screw adjustments.
066EA9C3-0A7C-46C4-ADC9-702E2456D075.jpeg
Works great with any leather, including these shell Church’s.
0D863C22-09D2-407E-944A-3823B41BE9B8.jpeg
 
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madhat

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Wow. This whole time I just figured that the insoles were glued in after the shoe was constructed. I've seen a few where stitching is visible, but never AE. So, to sum up, the rib is glued to the bottom of the insole and then everything else is built off that?
If there's stitching visible, it's probably Blake stitch
IMG_20200606_111834__01.jpg
 

wasmisterfu

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@wasmisterfu

As a fellow engineer, I advise you to buy them base on cost to quality ratio.

So now you have medical advice, legal, and engineering advice to procure them.

You only need an accountant's advice to confirm that it is a wise 'investment'.
Excellent. While waiting for confirmation from finance, my understanding is that, under @suitforcourt’s arbitration guidance, you’re all willing to receive a call, from my local spousal customs official, to explain these well reasoned arguments.

You guys are the best. Though I’m gonna need those phone numbers.

49lVZcS.jpg
 

Hotel Cali

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Excellent. While waiting for confirmation from finance, my understanding is that, under @suitforcourt’s arbitration guidance, you’re all willing to receive a call, from my local spousal customs official, to explain these well reasoned arguments.

You guys are the best. Though I’m gonna need those phone numbers.

49lVZcS.jpg

Sure, here's my number: 1-800-BUY-SHOE
 

suitforcourt

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Hey gentlemen, can anyone tell me a bit about Taylor Made Imperial cordovan shoes?
Excellent. While waiting for confirmation from finance, my understanding is that, under @suitforcourt’s arbitration guidance, you’re all willing to receive a call, from my local spousal customs official, to explain these well reasoned arguments.

You guys are the best. Though I’m gonna need those phone numbers.

49lVZcS.jpg
Sure, here's my number: 1-800-BUY-SHOE

1-877-MORE-SHOES

Press 1 for English. Appuyez 2 pour Francais.
 

stook1

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I use these stick-on floor protectors and place them in the spots that are tight, usually on my right foot which is a little wider. My left foot’s longer and I’ve had success putting bumpers up on the toe, even piling up two of them. Then lengthening with the screw adjustments.
View attachment 1401311 Works great with any leather, including these shell Church’s.
View attachment 1401312

That's a great idea. I have tried wrapping shoe trees in thick hiking socks, which works OK as well but I think I like your approach better. Never thought of that. By the way if anyone ever tries the socks using a modern shoe tree like woodlore, my suggestion is to leave the ankle part of the sock loose around shaft rather than going around the heel.
 

wasmisterfu

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Wow. This whole time I just figured that the insoles were glued in after the shoe was constructed. I've seen a few where stitching is visible, but never AE. So, to sum up, the rib is glued to the bottom of the insole and then everything else is built off that?
So the gemming (heavy duty canvas) is glued to the bottom (using a special machine). That forms the first part of the rib. Then the bottom of the upper is folded over the bottom of the insole and stitched to the gemming, forming the complete rib. This rib is what the welt is then stitched to. In a 360 welt, the whole thing becomes a single unitized component.

Once upon a time (~80 years ago), they used to cut a partial thin feather (during mass-production of insoles) from the bottom of the insole, and reenforce it with gemming to form the initial part of the rib, but over time it became apparent that the gemming was doing all the work (unlike a hand-fashioned leather rib in a true hand-welted shoe, which is stronger than gemming). So they dropped cutting the feather back in the 40’s or earlier.

There’s a pretty well known bespoke boot-maker, here on SF, who makes a point of referring to GYW shoes as being essentially “cemented” because the upper and welt aren’t inherently stitched to the insole, but adhered with cement. He’s not wrong, and gemming failure does happen, though minor issues are fixed during recraft (cementing a partially lifted segment of gemming back in place) and a reasonably skilled cobbler can fix a partial failure in a few minutes. Many (probably 3/4’s, based on comments from cobblers) will never experience even minor gemming issues.

Honestly, if you try to remove your insoles (if leather) from a GYW shoe, provided they haven’t had excessive exposure to external moisture or solvents, you’ll be shocked at how hard it is to pull the insole from the gemming. I know, I’ve tried (for science, on a ruined pair), and I ended up ripping the leather; meaning the leather that the gemming was adhered to ripped away from the rest of the insole... that’s how strong both the canvas and shoe cement is (you definitely wouldn’t want to glue a body part to something, by accident, with that stuff).
 

friendlygoz

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I’ve gotten bold in messing with some of my shell shoes. I’m going to re-dye a pair of 93605s. I’ll post results later. I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy shell saddles that are in great shape. But the shell had no luster whatsoever. I was googling around for solutions, and found a styleforum post where someone put a coat of Angelus acrylic finisher on some shell Leeds that were similarly dull. The results on his shoes were incredible. So, I gave it a try. See what you think. Here’s the before:
0D9DE7F1-04A0-4276-92B1-AFB019364B6B.jpeg
F0909555-9B14-4547-BD95-CD1576655D2A.jpeg

....and after:
9638F1F2-4955-4772-927E-70FB954639CC.jpeg

glam shot:
D734ECE7-AAC5-4701-9F59-76C8DE3561F6.jpeg

The process was easy. At first, I used a small paintbrush. But I found that even a small paint brush was applying to much of the finisher and I feared that there would be glossy streaks.
2F53C14F-3AC5-4604-BFFA-6D51F93F5BA7.jpeg

So, I use an old cotton T-shirt, mildly saturating a dime sized portion of the shirt and applying it to the shell in small circles. I layered on three coats. I’m pretty happy with how it came out. I know Alden shell has an acrylic coat that gives the shell a wet look. I like a moderate version of that look, so I used Angelus acrylic finisher no. 600.
CB5A5733-9980-459B-8D61-DA5405B8394E.jpeg

I’ll have to see how they hold up.
 
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woofmang

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I’ve gotten bold in messing with some of my shell shoes. I’m going to re-dye a pair of 93605s. I’ll post results later. I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy shell saddles that are in great shape. But the shell had no luster whatsoever. I was googling around for solutions, and found a styleforum post where someone put a coat of Angelus acrylic finisher on some shell Leeds that were similarly dull. The results on his shoes were incredible. So, I gave it a try. See what you think. Here’s the before: View attachment 1401350 View attachment 1401363
....and after:
View attachment 1401347
The process was easy. At first, I used a small paintbrush. But I found that even a small paint brush was applying to much of the finisher and I feared that there would be glossy streaks. View attachment 1401353
So, I use an old cotton T-shirt, mildly saturating a dime sized portion of the shirt and applying it to the shell in small circles. I layered on three coats. I’m pretty happy with how it came out. I know Alden shell has an acrylic coat that gives the shell a wet look. I like a moderate version of that look, so I used Angelus acrylic finisher no. 600. View attachment 1401361
I’ll have to see how they hold up.
Big improvement!
 

wasmisterfu

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I’ve gotten bold in messing with some of my shell shoes. I’m going to re-dye a pair of 93605s. I’ll post results later. I have a pair of Johnston and Murphy shell saddles that are in great shape. But the shell had no luster whatsoever. I was googling around for solutions, and found a styleforum post where someone put a coat of Angelus acrylic finisher on some shell Leeds that were similarly dull. The results on his shoes were incredible. So, I gave it a try. See what you think. Here’s the before: View attachment 1401350 View attachment 1401363
....and after: View attachment 1401347
glam shot: View attachment 1401365
The process was easy. At first, I used a small paintbrush. But I found that even a small paint brush was applying to much of the finisher and I feared that there would be glossy streaks. View attachment 1401353
So, I use an old cotton T-shirt, mildly saturating a dime sized portion of the shirt and applying it to the shell in small circles. I layered on three coats. I’m pretty happy with how it came out. I know Alden shell has an acrylic coat that gives the shell a wet look. I like a moderate version of that look, so I used Angelus acrylic finisher no. 600. View attachment 1401361
I’ll have to see how they hold up.
This is pretty close to what AE applies during recrafting of whatever you send them.
 

wasmisterfu

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If there's stitching visible, it's probably Blake stitch
View attachment 1401315
Yup, that’d be blake. The problem with plain old blake, is god help you if you step in even a shallow puddle, or slush... or even dewy grass. Instant swamp sock. If it isn’t a blake+rapid double sole, I won’t do blake anymore.
 

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