Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[wasmisterfu]

More like the toe area.

Must... resist... urge...

 

[wasmisterfu]

I wear Aberdeen in 13 D just fine. Check the chart I put in the spoiler though. A lot of the Alden obsessives on the web have opinions about lasts, so I recommend reading some of those too.

So I’m going to pass, but not because they won’t fit (they almost certainly would be a good fit), or because I don’t like them (I do), but because I’m really pushing my luck with spousal customs. I just barely got away with those Strawfut’s.

 

[eTrojan]

Ooops. I seem to have bought the Freeman Bootmaker Guild LWBs that were on @davidVC ’s list. I’m not sure how that happens. I thought I was on a buying hiatus.

Here are some of the eBay photos while we wait for shipping. These are a 13B, so more likely a winter shoe for me since I'll have to wear thicker socks to make them fit. But I'd never seen a Bootmaker Guild model in my size, and they're really clean with a v-cleat. Seemed like the right thing to do.

 

[eTrojan]

Dilemma: This is a 1980 or 1990 pair (additional photos from the seller). I already have a pair of 93603s that I rarely wear. Part of the reason I never wear them is that there is some spotting on the vamp. I haven't really dug in on cleaning attempt to see how well the spots will come out (tiny splatter type spots on both shoes). If I'm wearing jeans and want a PTB, i'm more likely to grab the LB Sheppard shell ones.

I know you're all going to tell me it's my duty to buy these, so those responses are already invalid. If I had a more normal size, I could flip the pair I already have since these would require less work to really shine. But since the resale market for my shoes is almost non-existent, I would basically be spending another $50 to not work on the other shoes, and then have them taking up space in my closet. Unless I opted to dye them a different color....

Florsheim Imperial 93603 Kenmoor 10e Brown Plain Toe Blucher 5 Nail V Cleat Vntg for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Florsheim Imperial 93603 Kenmoor 10e Brown Plain Toe Blucher 5 Nail V Cleat Vntg at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

@mreams99 -- I would probably have to clear out the AE Gridirons (with matching belt) to make room for these. Still interested?

 

[wasmisterfu]

I’ve been quoted no more than $100 to replace a welt- I didn’t realize it was so involved.

Edit: I’ve never inquired about replacing the insole, I thought that came together with re-welting. How much does such work tend to run?

So “tend to run” wouldn’t be the way I’d look at it, as it’s very rare that the actual insole is replaced on a welted shoe (we’re not talking heel-liner, sock-liner or orthotic padding, I mean actual insole). General rule is that if the insoles are shot, then the shoe is done. You’d need Bedo’s or BNelson level skills to do the work, and that means it’ll cost more than the price of a new pair.

 

[right_hook]

Here are some of the eBay photos while we wait for shipping. These are a 13B, so more likely a winter shoe for me since I'll have to wear thicker socks to make them fit. But I'd never seen a Bootmaker Guild model in my size, and they're really clean with a v-cleat. Seemed like the right thing to do.

View attachment 1401191
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They look really nice!!

 

[smfdoc]

Must... resist... urge...

Rx

Alden 684, 13C. Clean, condition, buff. Buff more. Insert trees and wait one day. Wear as needed.

Dr. Smfdoc
6 Refills.


(Now you can tell the wife they were prescribed.)

 

[suitforcourt]

So I’m going to pass, but not because they won’t fit (they almost certainly would be a good fit), or because I don’t like them (I do), but because I’m really pushing my luck with spousal customs. I just barely got away with those Strawfut’s.

Let spousal customs know that this pair must be purchased. You have a fiduciary obligation to this brotherhood. The legal consequences of not fulfilling the obligation is not only significant, but would be time consuming when you are hauled before the Grand Council for a hearing on your future status in said brotherhood.

It would be cheaper, and less of a hassle to buy them.

Ask her the costs of legal representation. What would THAT cost in NY state? I suspect one hour of just consultation is more than the pair of shoes.

If they fit, they ship.

 

[mreams99]

Dilemma: This is a 1980 or 1990 pair (additional photos from the seller). I already have a pair of 93603s that I rarely wear. Part of the reason I never wear them is that there is some spotting on the vamp. I haven't really dug in on cleaning attempt to see how well the spots will come out (tiny splatter type spots on both shoes). If I'm wearing jeans and want a PTB, i'm more likely to grab the LB Sheppard shell ones.

I know you're all going to tell me it's my duty to buy these, so those responses are already invalid. If I had a more normal size, I could flip the pair I already have since these would require less work to really shine. But since the resale market for my shoes is almost non-existent, I would basically be spending another $50 to not work on the other shoes, and then have them taking up space in my closet. Unless I opted to dye them a different color....

Florsheim Imperial 93603 Kenmoor 10e Brown Plain Toe Blucher 5 Nail V Cleat Vntg for sale online | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Florsheim Imperial 93603 Kenmoor 10e Brown Plain Toe Blucher 5 Nail V Cleat Vntg at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

@mreams99 -- I would probably have to clear out the AE Gridirons (with matching belt) to make room for these. Still interested?

Is this a dream?

Just last week I posted something on the Allen Edmonds thread about my issues with the 511 last. I typically wear a 13B. My left foot is a little longer than 13, but my right foot is a little shorter (more like a 12-1/2). On the shorter AE lasts (like the 511), the size 13B can sometimes be a little too short for my left foot. Not always — but probably more often than not. I do have a couple of pairs where it works.

I eventually decided try size 14 in the 511 last. I’ve tried a few pairs between 14AA and 14B. And last week I posted that from here on out, I’m going with the 14s.

But, these are the Gridiron. A pair I’ve wanted for a long time. And sometimes the 13B will (barely) work for that left foot. If these fit a little long, they might be OK.

Has anyone had any luck trying to stretch a pair for a little extra length? Or would I be better off getting my toes shortened?

 

[wasmisterfu]

Let spousal customs know that this pair must be purchased. You have a fiduciary obligation to this brotherhood. The legal consequences of not fulfilling the obligation is not only significant, but would be time consuming when you are hauled before the Grand Council for a hearing on your future status in said brotherhood.

It would be cheaper, and less of a hassle to buy them.

Ask her the costs of legal representation. What would THAT cost in NY state? I suspect one hour of just consultation is more than the pair of shoes.

If they fit, they ship.

Dear Sir,

If I’ve learned anything from my general counsel, it’s to never attempt to act as your own attorney in legal matters. As such, I feel your specialized expertise and representation are required in this matter. Therefore, please post your phone number, so that my wife can contact you directly, regarding this subject.

I’ve also been advised that Dr. smfdoc has volunteered to provide expert testimony in this matter, so I’ll assume you have all necessary resources needed for executing an effective arbitration strategy with my spousal customs.

Sincerely,

The artist formerly know as Misterfu

 

[madhat]

I’ve been quoted no more than $100 to replace a welt- I didn’t realize it was so involved.

Edit: I’ve never inquired about replacing the insole, I thought that came together with re-welting. How much does such work tend to run?

Well, when Bedos has pulled apart GYW shoes to replace insoles, they've been $700+ jobs...

 

[madhat]

Is this a dream?

Just last week I posted something on the Allen Edmonds thread about my issues with the 511 last. I typically wear a 13B. My left foot is a little longer than 13, but my right foot is a little shorter (more like a 12-1/2). On the shorter AE lasts (like the 511), the size 13B can sometimes be a little too short for my left foot. Not always — but probably more often than not. I do have a couple of pairs where it works.

I eventually decided try size 14 in the 511 last. I’ve tried a few pairs between 14AA and 14B. And last week I posted that from here on out, I’m going with the 14s.

But, these are the Gridiron. A pair I’ve wanted for a long time. And sometimes the 13B will (barely) work for that left foot. If these fit a little long, they might be OK.

Has anyone had any luck trying to stretch a pair for a little extra length? Or would I be better off getting my toes shortened?

If you need length, I'd say you're out of luck. If you just need a bit more width in the taper, some targeted stretching like my pen trick might give you a bit more clearance

 

[wasmisterfu]

Well, when Bedos has pulled apart GYW shoes to replace insoles, they've been $700+ jobs...

Yeah, and if I remember correctly, in such cases it was either a very rare shoe, or the owner had some sentimental attachment to the shoe. Separating the insole from the upper takes you from heavy recraft territory, deep into a full remake of the shoe. Put simply, the insoles in a welted shoe are not intended to be removed for the lifetime of the shoe.

That said, as your shoe ages, use cedar trees and occasionally (once or twice a year) condition the insoles, and the insoles will outlast the rest of the shoe.

 

[Hotel Cali]

Rx

Alden 684, 13C. Clean, condition, buff. Buff more. Insert trees and wait one day. Wear as needed.

Dr. Smfdoc
6 Refills.


(Now you can tell the wife they were prescribed.)

Let spousal customs know that this pair must be purchased. You have a fiduciary obligation to this brotherhood. The legal consequences of not fulfilling the obligation is not only significant, but would be time consuming when you are hauled before the Grand Council for a hearing on your future status in said brotherhood.

It would be cheaper, and less of a hassle to buy them.

Ask her the costs of legal representation. What would THAT cost in NY state? I suspect one hour of just consultation is more than the pair of shoes.

If they fit, they ship.

@wasmisterfu

As a fellow engineer, I advise you to buy them base on cost to quality ratio.

So now you have medical advice, legal, and engineering advice to procure them.

You only need an accountant's advice to confirm that it is a wise 'investment'.

 

[happypebble]

If you need length, I'd say you're out of luck. If you just need a bit more width in the taper, some targeted stretching like my pen trick might give you a bit more clearance

pen trick? What's that? I have a couple pairs that need to be just a smidge wider at the widest part of the foot/of the shoe.