Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[friendlygoz]

Wearing my early 90s AE Black Cherry Shell Bristols today:

View attachment 1397441

(And an unsolicited plug for Bick 4: I was beginning to worry about these; after a dozen wears or so over about a year's time, the rolls in the vamp were starting to seem very dry, and I was afraid they might crack if that got much worse. Following someone's recommendation - can't recall if it was here or on another SF thread - I picked up a bottle of Bick 4, and after my last wear a couple of weeks ago, thoroughly conditioned them inside and out with it. I let them sit overnight, put their trees back in, bagged them up, and put them up. Today, they're smooth and supple-looking all around. I'm very happy with the results.)

Those are fantastic. I’m glad they are holding up well.

 

[madhat]

I think so too. The sales associate seem to be surprisingly unknowledgeable. When I mentioned that “I have a hard time with the fit on the 5 last,” She said she had never heard of the 5 last. I had to explain to her that that was shorthand for the 65 last.

So, if she was specifically sizing you for the 65, it's somewhat common to go down length up width, so an 8.5E in 65 where you are normally a 9D isn't that odd. If she was saying you were universally an 8.5E, then I would question how it was measured. I would suspect basic AE SAs would target a D width over E width so they could get you into a pair right then.

 

[woofmang]

Those are fantastic. I’m glad they are holding up well.

Thanks! Me too.

 

[wasmisterfu]

View attachment 1397180

Wow!

 

[eTrojan]

There are a couple of ways to interpret the brannock. You can take the straight length/width reading or you can take the arch length (heel to ball measurement). Both can be helpful but neither are absolute. Brannock doesn’t account for volume and other fit anomalies.

So while the brannock is a great guide and starting point for fit, it comes down to the ability of the fitter to be able to gauge your foot shape and apply it to knowledge of the particular last fit properties. Some will go longer/narrower, some shorter/wider. In a lot of cases, the length/width measurement is the right way to go too.

In my experience, higher end shoes generally run slightly on the longer side. For a brand like AE that offers an array of widths, to me, it doesn’t make sense to go longer when you have widths available. One exception would be for Bals with high insteps an going wider isn’t enough so adding length is the fix.

I’m a 12C width so I get your struggle with access to sizes/lasts to try at a shop.

The salesman measured me with a Brannock sitting down, and insisted it was the right way to do it. I'm 52 years old; I have never been measured sitting down. The foot shape changes when you stand. Shoes are made for walking, and last time I checked, you can't walk while sitting down.

 

[eTrojan]

Would love to see pictures!

Here is the last round of photos taken.

Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Allen Edmonds Empire. Last seen in the AE catalogs in the late 1950s (56-58). When these arrived, the buckskin had TONS of white shoe polish caked on. I’ve been through three rounds of saddle soap scrubbing to get down to the clean buckskin. I’ve contemplated one last round with the coconut...

www.styleforum.net

This is likely the cobbler I will take them to when I'm ready to have them repaired.

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Haute Shoes: Raul Ojeda's Handmade Footwear Merges Craft and Fashion

Shoemaker and designer Raul Ojeda has managed to carve out a thriving career running two successful businesses in Los Angeles -- historic Willie’s Shoe Service and his own bespoke footwear line Don Ville.

www.kcet.org

 

[jpm1]

Here is the last round of photos taken.

Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Allen Edmonds Empire. Last seen in the AE catalogs in the late 1950s (56-58). When these arrived, the buckskin had TONS of white shoe polish caked on. I’ve been through three rounds of saddle soap scrubbing to get down to the clean buckskin. I’ve contemplated one last round with the coconut...

www.styleforum.net

This is likely the cobbler I will take them to when I'm ready to have them repaired.

WILLIESSHOESERVICE — Latest and Most Complete Articles About Shoes Reviews, Comparisons, Buying Guide, Tutorials and Deals

Shoes and Sneakers Reviews, Buying Guide, Comparisons, Tutorials and Deals

www.williesshoeservice.com

Haute Shoes: Raul Ojeda's Handmade Footwear Merges Craft and Fashion

Shoemaker and designer Raul Ojeda has managed to carve out a thriving career running two successful businesses in Los Angeles -- historic Willie’s Shoe Service and his own bespoke footwear line Don Ville.

www.kcet.org

Excellent condition!

 

[friendlygoz]

So, if she was specifically sizing you for the 65, it's somewhat common to go down length up width, so an 8.5E in 65 where you are normally a 9D isn't that odd. If she was saying you were universally an 8.5E, then I would question how it was measured. I would suspect basic AE SAs would target a D width over E width so they could get you into a pair right then.

She was taking my regular Brannock size and she said I measured out at 8.5 E. Then she had me try on Stands in that size. I have a hard time with the five last, and I do think an 8.5 years better than a 9D. I was just surprised that she didn’t know the lingo related to the different lasts.

 

[wasmisterfu]

She was taking my regular Brannock size and she said I measured out at 8.5 E. Then she had me try on Stands in that size. I have a hard time with the five last, and I do think an 8.5 years better than a 9D. I was just surprised that she didn’t know the lingo related to the different lasts.

I hate to say this (because I’m not trying to sound mean spirited or anything), but folks working at AE retail stores aren’t highly-trained professionals. They’re retail sales employees, who are given very basic sales training, and are essentially no different than the retail sales associates selling handbags in the store next door.

The era of the shoe (or other type of) salesman, with some degree of learned expertise, spending his “career” selling shoes in an independent store, is long gone. The person selling you a shoe at an AE Store, will be over at Macy’s selling housewares, two months later if it means an extra 3 bucks an hour.

There might be exceptions, but I wouldn’t trust most of these AE sales associates to measure my feet correctly or understand last shapes, any more than I’d trust the drones at BestBuy to understand the technology they’re told to push. They’re just their to facilitate a transaction, not much else.

 

[friendlygoz]

I hate to say this (because I’m not trying to sound mean spirited or anything), but folks working at AE retail stores aren’t highly-trained professionals. They’re retail sales employees, who are given very basic sales training, and are essentially no different than the retail sales associates selling handbags in the store next door.

The era of the shoe (or other type of) salesman, with some degree of learned expertise, spending his “career” selling shoes in an independent store, is long gone. The person selling you a shoe at an AE Store, will be over at Macy’s selling housewares, two months later if it means an extra 3 bucks an hour.

There might be exceptions, but I wouldn’t trust most of these AE sales associates to measure my feet correctly or understand last shapes, any more than I’d trust the drones at BestBuy to understand the technology they’re told to push. They’re just their to facilitate a transaction, not much else.

This is spot on. There’s no appreciation for the craft or the heritage. I’ve worn my vintage AEs into the store and they are totally unimpressed. How often do you see a pair of shell MacNeils from 1988?! I... er my shoes deserve more!

 

[wasmisterfu]

This is spot on. There’s no appreciation for the craft or the heritage. I’ve worn my vintage AEs into the store and they are totally unimpressed. How often do you see a pair of shell MacNeils from 1988?! I... er my shoes deserve more!

Slight digression, but you should post some delicious 1988 Shell MacNeil shoe pr0n.

 

[suitforcourt]

I hate to say this (because I’m not trying to sound mean spirited or anything), but folks working at AE retail stores aren’t highly-trained professionals. They’re retail sales employees, who are given very basic sales training, and are essentially no different than the retail sales associates selling handbags in the store next door.

The era of the shoe (or other type of) salesman, with some degree of learned expertise, spending his “career” selling shoes in an independent store, is long gone. The person selling you a shoe at an AE Store, will be over at Macy’s selling housewares, two months later if it means an extra 3 bucks an hour.

There might be exceptions, but I wouldn’t trust most of these AE sales associates to measure my feet correctly or understand last shapes, any more than I’d trust the drones at BestBuy to understand the technology they’re told to push. They’re just their to facilitate a transaction, not much else.

This is spot on. There’s no appreciation for the craft or the heritage. I’ve worn my vintage AEs into the store and they are totally unimpressed. How often do you see a pair of shell MacNeils from 1988?! I... er my shoes deserve more!

Not that I need to push this issue further, I was once at a Louis Vuitton store with an old flame. She didn't become Mrs. SFC.

As she shopped for bags, I was checking out their shoes. They were all north of $900. I asked a SA if any of them were GYW. He had a blank stare. He dutifully spoke to his colleagues. Finally a manager intervened and indicated they sell high end well made shoes. I showed them price points of John Lobb, Edward Greens, and Alden.

None of them had ever heard of those brands, let alone know what GYW was.

My dad used to tell me that at the Florsheim store in Hong Kong, the SA were dedicated professionals who knew their products inside and out. They even once called a US store to locate a specific size and style not available in Asia. They had it shipped to HK at costs. The store also had a complimentary shining service and repair shop.

The stockist that sold Dacks was likely the most impressive. He would discuss the latest NHL scores and his favourite Canadian beer brands. In the days without the internet. He actually had to research and experience the things he had knowledge about.

The days of those types of SA are swept into the crevices of history along with our favourite brands.

 

[suitforcourt]

Slight digression, but you should post some delicious 1988 Shell MacNeil shoe pr0n.

I recently e-thrifted these AE MacNeils in black shell. It won't hit the spot... but hey, I can only do so much.

They're still solid, but I will have a cobbler rebuild with rubber soles to make them rain shoes. My other pair of AE MacNeils in black shell have JR soles.

 

[jpm1]

The salesman measured me with a Brannock sitting down, and insisted it was the right way to do it. I'm 52 years old; I have never been measured sitting down. The foot shape changes when you stand. Shoes are made for walking, and last time I checked, you can't walk while sitting down.

Correct. Measure while standing.

 

[stook1]

Size 13 people... These are a good deal in my estimation. Not sure whats up with the heels but these look like very nice NOS ET Wrights. Not mine.

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