Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[friendlygoz]

Given that it's my birthday, I am invoking rule number 1 of the group: post your shoe Appreciation.

I have also started a change.org petition for weekly vcleat articles. Us shut ins need a respite.

Quiet celebrations today. Getting fried chicken and cake for lunch. And then Cantonese take out for dinner.

It will be the maiden voyage of a pair of rebuilt Blundstones today.

Wishing you all a great start to the weekend. With the stay at home order, I hope everyone is staying sane!

Happy belated birthday. I’ve totally failed you. I bow shoe p every day this week to mark a week-long celebration.

 

[nikolau]

Hi guys:
I think the guys most likely to do a limited edition GMTO would be John Doe shoes.
kilowatts

This is probably true. I’m waiting on my first order from John Doe, but thus far the customer service has been excellent, & they already buy a lot of leather from Horween. Unclear if they’d be willing to work with shell, but if they are they seem like the kind of firm that’d whip up a pattern for 6-10 people at a modest premium.

There was also this exciting GMTthat was being organized over on Reddit for ZEB shoes. It fell through last year. Having messaged back and fourth with Bojan (Zeb’s proprietor) on Instagram in the past, he’s expressed an interest in launching a “classic longwing model in the near future” (exact quote).

From Reddit, his pricing seems reasonable, and he’s well regarded in the r/goodyearwelt crowd.

“300 Euros to cover the cost for making the pattern [and it seems prototype]... Prices (shipping cost NOT included): €410 for calf leather €390 for suede €430 for Maryam tannery horsehide €610 for Horween shell cordovan.”

This guy’s Instagram is ? and I *really* want a pair of shell wholecut slippers from him eventually. Never personally seen his work though.

That said, John Doe seem like a lovely small business and have very affordable pricing to boot.

 

[Nealjpage]

What is GMTO?

 

[Oshare]

What is GMTO?

Group Made To Order

Rather than single orders, GMTO helps to keep costs down if they can make a small batch of similar items at once.

For shoes this might be special colors, different leathers, different leather/color combinations, a design on a different last from normal, etc.

They usually get a group of people to commit up front (pay) and then make the shoes.

 

[Nealjpage]

Group Made To Order

Rather than single orders, GMTO helps to keep costs down if they can make a small batch of similar items at once.

For shoes this might be special colors, different leathers, different leather/color combinations, a design on a different last from normal, etc.

They usually get a group of people to commit up front (pay) and then make the shoes.

Gustin Jeans operates with a similar model, if I remember correctly.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

One thing about working from home is I might be able to talk myself into wearing a few new or NOS pairs at home on the carpet since I haven't been able to convince myself to wear them outside.

 

[kilowatts]

Hi Guys:
Just a heads up: If the price of a pair of GMTO shoes goes much over $US200.00, I'm out! That's why I suggested John Doe, excellent quality, low price and very amenable owner.
kilowatts

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I don't know that anyone has made direct contact. There has been discussion and an open letter on this thread, but sending a letter to Florsheim would be the next step.

A GMTO run might work. I've seen makers do those for as few as 6 people.

Sorry to be a downer, but the problem would likely be the price. If they could do a limited run of miUSA Horween shell Kenmoors, what would the price be? Say it was $1,200 per shoe, and the quality is slightly inferior to what we might find from a shoe in good condition on eBay for $200 or less...

If they offshore it (India or China) and maybe use shell from another manufacturer and do a direct sale, they might be able to do it for $500? (wild guess)

I wonder at what price point, and for what quality would people here be willing to pay for a newly minted shell Kenmoor?

If at the quality of the Duckie Brown line, I would pay 6-700 a pair.

Maybe as a group, we should draft an official letter to Florsheim.

If we could get a few people to commit, perhaps Florsheim would consider a small GMTO run. Going on what I see from other GTMO offers, probably the model, leather, perhaps even the color and sizing (size is a challenge with our small group being all over the map) might all need to be determined in advance for them to consider it seriously.

Of course, this is all sort of moot for me since I don't think I could bring myself to pay that kind of money just to have the Florsheim name on it. $6-700 a pair opens up a LOT of other options.

Hi Guys:
Just a heads up: If the price of a pair of GMTO shoes goes much over $US200.00, I'm out! That's why I suggested John Doe, excellent quality, low price and very amenable owner.
kilowatts

I would not pay $1200 for Florsheim Shell Cordovan made now. I think I could get TWO NOS Florsheim vintage Shell that would be better. At $6-700, I would be tempted but I would have to be convinced they were just as good as vintage Shell.

At $500, I would probably be interested because it would very cool and desirable to have NEW Shell Kenmoor. But, if they are made just like the current Kenmoor with Shell Cordovan, I would have to be convinced they are superior to the current Kenmoor. I have not seen them in person. I have been tempted when I have seen them on sale for around $150-175.

But, if we are approaching $400 or anything more than $500, I would be pretty hard pressed to choose them over something more rare or desirable. Right now, I'm still on the search for rare color shell.

 

[Centaurus3200]

Yeah, I think a price comparable to Alden shell would be reasonable... If made in USA. I said $1200 because I'm guessing the cost to replicate the woodgrain sole, 69 nails and V cleat comes at a premium?

An alternate would be to do a simpler sole and heel, with faux nails... But a real cleat?

I doubt Florsheim would be interested in a limited usa run at a price less than Alden shell...

I do think there's brand value in having a TOTL Kenmoor model. As of now, Florsheim is just competing in the current Cole Haan level market. I guess that's where the money is at, but for shoe guys, that can't be very inspiring.

I think what we're basically suggesting is a Florsheim version of Levi's LVC.

I would not pay $1200 for Florsheim Shell Cordovan made now. I think I could get TWO NOS Florsheim vintage Shell that would be better. At $6-700, I would be tempted but I would have to be convinced they were just as good as vintage Shell.

At $500, I would probably be interested because it would very cool and desirable to have NEW Shell Kenmoor. But, if they are made just like the current Kenmoor with Shell Cordovan, I would have to be convinced they are superior to the current Kenmoor. I have not seen them in person. I have been tempted when I have seen them on sale for around $150-175.

But, if we are approaching $400 or anything more than $500, I would be pretty hard pressed to choose them over something more rare or desirable. Right now, I'm still on the search for rare color shell.

 

[Jiqea]

I am heading out for a walk in my made in the USA Lake of the Woods derbys. These things are made like tanks. I am not sure when production was moved to South Korea and ultimately China, but I think this pair dates to the 1980's. I picked them up for use at the cottage, but I find I am wearing them quite a it more than I thought I would.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I forgot about these I found a few weeks ago. I guess boredom can be good.

I have never had a pair of Quoddy. I’m not convinced that they are worth the cost they go for. BUT, they do appear to use high quality leather and with a vibram sole, they would last a LONG time. I suppose, I will have to try them.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

With all of us with extra time on our hands and all the thrift stores and estate sales closed, anybody feel like doing some trading?

I have already done done trades with shoes. But, I also have suits, shirts, ties, and all sorts of stuff.

 

[kilowatts]

Hi guys:
I got involved with vintage shoes for a couple of reasons.
One can purchase a pair of classic shoes which are of excellent quality and will never go out of style for very little money. It appeals to my parsimonious nature to hunt for and get a really good deal. If none of the above were an issue I would simply drive to the nearest Alden store and buy a new pair of shoes!
For the above reasons I just can’t get to GMTO shoes at full bore retail. Sorry guys, it’s cheap GMTO or discount vintage for me. $1,200.00 US is just simply not an option, not because I can’t afford it but because I don’t believe it’s good value for money when there are so many alternatives to do better.
Sorry to be downer.
Kilowatts

 

[Nealjpage]

I think I've cleaned up these FootJoy short wings to my liking, though I might give them a bit more shine with some clear polish.

Here is the eBay listing picture:

And how they looked when starting:

After. I didn't have any black laces in my supply, so I put in green ones.

There are three lines of text on the sole.
"FootJoy"
(Something I can't quite make out)
"Discontinued"

Wore them to work. We were recently permitted to wear jeans daily, which is nice.

I bought these for a number of reasons. First, they're less common than other brands (this is also why I chose a '65 Pontiac Grand Prix as my first car in 1994). Second, I thought that the broguing was unusual, and I liked the spade-style soles. And third, they were cheap (about $20 delivered to my door).

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I think I've cleaned up these FootJoy short wings to my liking, though I might give them a bit more shine with some clear polish.

Here is the eBay listing picture:

View attachment 1366964

And how they looked when starting:

View attachment 1366966

View attachment 1366967

After. I didn't have any black laces in my supply, so I put in green ones.

View attachment 1366970

View attachment 1366971

There are three lines of text on the sole.
"FootJoy"
(Something I can't quite make out)
"Discontinued"

View attachment 1366973

Wore them to work. We were recently permitted to wear jeans daily, which is nice.

View attachment 1366997

View attachment 1366998

View attachment 1366999

I bought these for a number of reasons. First, they're less common than other brands (this is also why I chose a '65 Pontiac Grand Prix as my first car in 1994). Second, I thought that the broguing was unusual, and I liked the spade-style soles. And third, they were cheap (about $20 delivered to my door).

They look great! I’m always a fan of vintage Footjoy!