Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Raimar]

So what is your stretching process? I shoved some shoe trees with high insteps in them and after about 5 minutes I could see the leather of the vamp starting to check and crack. I pulled the trees out and slathered the shoes with Bick 4. Several heavy applications a day for about 3 days. The leather was still soaking up Bick, and I haven't tried the trees again. In short, how do I stretch without tearing thin leather?

Every shoe is different. Leather in vintage shoes can be quite delicate. A large shoe tree does not have the ability of slowly increasing the pressure. The device I listed would let you do half a turn every 24 hours or so. If I were doing your shoe, I would use stretcher after applying conditioner. Wait 24 hours. Add more conditioner and do half a turn on the stretcher. Repeat 1 more time and then try on. If not enough then I would use stretching liquid from the inside. and repeat the stretching half turns.

I have done this on a few shoes (initially without any liquids and then with half rubbing alcohol/half water solution on the inside if needed) and have not had issues but of course try at your own risk.

 

[CWOyaji]

Resting in our Tokyo hotel after a very uncrowded flight, wearing the NOS Weyenberg loafers that I bought on Ebay the last time I was here.

And looking forward to meeting up with @Oshare and possibly @wakazuki tomorrow morning, before we head down south to Miyazaki.

 

[Oshare]

Resting in our Tokyo hotel after a very uncrowded flight, wearing the NOS Weyenberg loafers that I bought on Ebay the last time I was here.
View attachment 1345653 And looking forward to meeting up with @Oshare and possibly @wakazuki tomorrow morning, before we head down south to Miyazaki.

Awesome! Looking forward to meeting you. Let me know what time to be there.

 

[HappyRaccoon]

Hello Everyone. First time posting here!
Does anyone have the experience or knowledge of the quality of vintage rebranded Edward Green ? such as some vintage Cole Haan.
I just got Edward Green for M.Bardelli for around 80usd. which will be arrived in monday. it's semi-brogue in 202 Last(The seller told me it was 202). this is a picture from the seller.

Did the quality match the Edward Green Cadogan? and is it a good buy?

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Thanks! It's an old Brooks Brothers suit that I've had for 20+ years. Very old school with a high rise waist and a 3-roll-2 lapel. I figured it was stylistically appropriate for my vintage LWB.

I wish I could find some suits like that! I have only one BB suit that is a 3/2 roll. I also need a slightly higher rise. Fortunately (unfortunately?) suits that fit me in the jacket are too big in the waist. That usually means I can tailor them and they fit more like a higher rise would.

I know this might sound fuddy-duddy but it is also very difficult to find sack suits. My BB suit referenced above is the only one I have and it’s very difficult to find them new. I suppose it is because the sack suit is out of style.

Sorry for the off topic discussion. I’ll get back on track with a pair I think is pretty interesting!

Vintage Sharkskin Shortwings.

I think I need to change the laces I don’t like the look of these flat unwaxed laces.

These would be a good pair for the guess the maker, except I don’t know the answer.

 

[HalfHuskyBite]

Ralph Lauren Saunders Chukka Desert Boots Mens Sz 7 D Brown Suede USA Made $525 | eBay

Theses handmade Boots seamlessly blend sophisticated charm with durable functionality. Quality made in the USA. These boots are gently pre-owned and are in excellent condition. The boots have just been cleaned, edged, and the soles re-stained.

rover.ebay.com

Guys I need help identifying the maker for these boots. They seem to be from Allen Edmonds. What do you guys think? Yay or nay?

 

[Hotel Cali]

Ralph Lauren Saunders Chukka Desert Boots Mens Sz 7 D Brown Suede USA Made $525 | eBay

Theses handmade Boots seamlessly blend sophisticated charm with durable functionality. Quality made in the USA. These boots are gently pre-owned and are in excellent condition. The boots have just been cleaned, edged, and the soles re-stained.

rover.ebay.com

Guys I need help identifying the maker for these boots. They seem to be from Allen Edmonds. What do you guys think? Yay or nay?

They are Saunders model from AE on AE last 222 which runs narrow. I have a NOS tan calf version in 7E calling me to wear them.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Spoiler: Not exactly vintage, just a request for assistance, so spoilered

I picked up a pair of Ferragamo loafers (to resell, not for personal) a few days ago in which the size stamp wore away, so I don't know what size they are. My estimate, based on comparison with a couple of eBay listings with measurements is that they are 9 D. On the off chance that one or several of my shoe brethren has a similar pair near that size, would you mind measuring and letting me know?
These are the shoes:
View attachment 1345325
And these are the measurements I have ~11 7/8” by 4”
View attachment 1345326 View attachment 1345327

Thanks

I’ve got a couple pairs of ferragamo horse bit loafers (although slightly different from yours) that are 9.5EE just around 11 7/8th and are 4” at the widest point. Mine all have the size stamped in 3 places. Side, tongue, sole.

 

[suitforcourt]

Finally had a chance to pick up my Stuart McGuire shell LWBs from the man himself. @davidVC was great to deal with. Shoes were nicely packed, clean, and shined up.

I did a quick wipe of interior which showed no dust or other unseen evil. Shell looks to be in great shape.

Marked as 9F or 9EE, the width is just about right while length seems longer than my other 9s. The insole is incredibly comfortable like my Chippewa Ellison boots.

The outsoles seem to be a little off, but won't affect integrity of shoes. Lots of life left. Will have a cobbler install topy and toe plates.

I will condition them a few times. Another great vintage addition to an already formidable collection.

And since I have the day off, decided to fit in some glycerin treatment for a few pairs of shell that will be sent to cobblers.

 

[HalfHuskyBite]

They are Saunders model from AE on AE last 222 which runs narrow. I have a NOS tan calf version in 7E calling me to wear them.

Damn thanks. They were in my size and I have a Dundee which is on the 501 last. I might take a gamble on them.

 

[smfdoc]

So what is your stretching process? I shoved some shoe trees with high insteps in them and after about 5 minutes I could see the leather of the vamp starting to check and crack. I pulled the trees out and slathered the shoes with Bick 4. Several heavy applications a day for about 3 days. The leather was still soaking up Bick, and I haven't tried the trees again. In short, how do I stretch without tearing thin leather?

So what is your stretching process? I shoved some shoe trees with high insteps in them and after about 5 minutes I could see the leather of the vamp starting to check and crack. I pulled the trees out and slathered the shoes with Bick 4. Several heavy applications a day for about 3 days. The leather was still soaking up Bick, and I haven't tried the trees again. In short, how do I stretch without tearing thin leather?

The very slow process is certainly recommended. If I were doing vintage shoes I would certainly condition several times before I did anything. Be sure and also pick up a spray bottle of shoes stretch liquid. I have no idea what it is made of but it is for spraying across the vamp and it allows the shoe leather to stretch a little bit more evenly. And then just go very slow and allow the leather to adapt. you don’t want To crank up the tension excessively and cause damage to the leather.

 

[Patrologia]

I’ve got a couple pairs of ferragamo horse bit loafers (although slightly different from yours) that are 9.5EE just around 11 7/8th and are 4” at the widest point. Mine all have the size stamped in 3 places. Side, tongue, sole.

Yeah, there is evidence of stamping in the sides, but not enough to read. They are unlined, so it was stamped against rough side leather. Nothing at all on the tongue, and the soles on these aren’t either.
Huh. Are you suggesting they might be fake? The rest of the quality looks right, but if they always do that much size stamping...
Maybe I should drag them over tot the thrift thread and ask that wider readership for an authenticity check.

 

[Nealjpage]

Ok, Canadian shoe fans, who can tell me what these are? They went unsold, but they are sure interesting, and I wonder about contacting the seller directly if worth it.

Mens Dress Shoes, Simard & Voyer | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mens Dress Shoes, Simard & Voyer at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Jiqea]

I picked up these Portage Porto-Peds "Custom Silk Label" LWB's off eBay last week. Portage was a division of Weyenberg, located in Portage WI, on the outskirts of Milwaukee. Their history extends back to at least 1920.

The Silk Label series was advertized in the 1960's, however this is the only pair that I have been able to find with a "Custom Silk Label" tag, nor can I find an advertizment for the Custom shoe. My question is "are these shell?". Portage did offer some shoes in shell, including penny loafers. Part of the numbering on the interior that may have told the tale is obscured by very neatly installed heel spacers that are visible in the picture of the silk label tag. I believe the shoes are a 7.5 E or EE.

What do you gentlemen think?

 

[Jiqea]

Ok, Canadian shoe fans, who can tell me what these are? They went unsold, but they are sure interesting, and I wonder about contacting the seller directly if worth it.

Mens Dress Shoes, Simard & Voyer | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Mens Dress Shoes, Simard & Voyer at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

To my limited knowledge they make primarily woman's shoes and have been in business since 1947. I think they are still around, or if not they are not long out of business. If you buy those shoes we can hold your intervention at my house.