Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[woofmang]

As long as we’re going down this rathole...

Laces:

Round or flat?
Waxed or unwaxed?
Color-match or color-contrast?

For me, it depends on context: for dressy oxfords, I like flat waxed; for dressy bluchers, I like round waxed; in either case, color-matched. For more casual shoes/boots, I like unwaxed, sometimes round, sometimes flat, and sometimes color-matched, sometimes color contrast.

 

[The Apostle]

As long as we’re going down this rathole...

Laces:

Round or flat?
Waxed or unwaxed?
Color-match or color-contrast?

I wish I had a solid answer for this. I use both round and flat. Almost always color matched. One exception is a pair of Navy AE Bainbridge I have. I switch between tan round laces and baby blue flat laces.

I also prefer medium sized laces. Not too thin and not too thick and LIGHTLY waxed. The super thin waxed laces always seem to be overwaxed.

 

[The Apostle]

Some laces I like.

• AE Basic Glazed. These are lightly waxed.
• j.fitzpatrick Flat waxed. Really nice laces and I'd suspect the same "sovereign grade" Kirby Allison sells.
  • Other decent choices which I like slightly less...
    • BB Brother Brother waxed from Amazon. (Comes in color packs)
    • Lorpops waxed from Amazon. (Comes in color packs)

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Before I send these off for consignment today, anybody wear a size 15, 15B, or 7.5?

I have two pair of AE and the Alden are 7.5.

 

[eTrojan]

B. A. Mason Velvet-eez LWB. These run a little wide, so the A-width is feeling sloppy today with dress socks. Should have grabbed something with more cushion. I find that the Executive Imperials are also a little extra roomy. Hadn’t worn them in a while and forgot. Perils of age.

 

[friendlygoz]

Hartt tassel loafers I got from @mariusscott. It’s embossed leather. These are really well made. Go Canadian shoe makers!

 

[Nealjpage]

Before I send these off for consignment today, anybody wear a size 15, 15B, or 7.5?

I have two pair of AE and the Alden are 7.5.

I'm scared to say that I might wear a 7.5 (perhaps depending on the maker), but might suffer at the hand of my wife if I splurged on some Aldens. . .

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I'm scared to say that I might wear a 7.5 (perhaps depending on the maker), but might suffer at the hand of my wife if I splurged on some Aldens. . .

Shoot. I should have waited to send them. Keep an eye out on ebay. They will be listed by Spoo -- the seller name is balearic1 . I do have a made to order pair of Johnston Murphy Navy Tassel Loafers that are Navy and SUPER NICE.

On another topic:

I went to my local Allen Edmonds store a couple weeks ago. They had the MacNeil and McTavish on sale. Unfortunately, my local store didn't have my size. But, the sales clerk was able to locate a pair at another store. I went ahead and ordered them. The charge went through on January 10. How long does it typically take to get an order from another store? I had them shipped to the store -- it gives me an excuse to go back and see if they have anything else on sale!

It seems like 10-12 days is way too long.

@friendlygoz printed leather or not, those are great looking loafers! I have a pair of Johnston Murphy that are similar but they are lizard (real not printed). They are pretty light colored and I wish they were darker.

Anyone ever tried to dye an exotic skin?

 

[The Apostle]

Can any of the resident experts weigh in on these Alan Macafees? Does the hand written date say 1984? Does this look like bookbinder?

Alan Mcafee London Bench Made English Royal Oxford Brougue Wingtip 9B US 10UK | eBay

This pairs are other ways in excellent condition. Used maybe once if that.

rover.ebay.com

 

[Nealjpage]

As long as we’re going down this rathole...

Laces:

Round or flat?
Waxed or unwaxed?
Color-match or color-contrast?

In my neck of the woods, I have four choices: black plain, black "waxed," brown plain, and brown "waxed." The waxed laces aren't really waxy like a proper dress lace, and they're nearly as fat as a boot lace. Oh, and they all come 36" long, though on occasion I've found some at 27" and 30".

 

[instigateur]

Thanks for posting this pair again. Still my favourite vintage pair owned by another thread member.

Thanks. I love them. Pretty sure they change color as I wear them. The colors get deeper. The leather feels like CXL

 

[suitforcourt]

First pair of new shoes for the new year. These are kinda rare. But need new soles.

 

[instigateur]

Freeman Strands today. Coincidentally, a consultant I met with today was wearing AE Strands. #shoebros4life

 

[Jiqea]

I have added another pair of gunboats to my flotilla of John McHale signature shoes; a pair of black cap-toe bluchers on the "Bomber" last (stealth bombers?). They each weigh in at slightly over 2lbs. Surprisingly the black version of this shoe is much more rare than the brown version.

These shoes were made with wonderful leather. With a little effort I think I could get a really nice shine on these. The attached advert is from 1944 and is the earliest reference I can find to the "Bomber". They were in continuous production through to the 80's.

 

[suitforcourt]

I have added another pair gunboats to my flotilla of John McHale signature shoes; a pair of black cap-toe bluchers on the "Bomber" last (stealth bombers?). The each weigh in at slightly over 2lbs. Surprisingly the black version of this shoe is much more rare than the brown version. These shoes were made with wonderful leather. With a little effort I think I could get a really nice shine on these.

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If you ever find a pair in my size...