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Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smfdoc, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. Paul902

    Paul902 Senior Member

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    Hi guys, while hunting for vintage jazz records I found these handsome Dack's Bond Street longwing brogues. As they are a wonderful fit, and, somehow, I didn't own any brown brogues (!), for $8 they needed to come home with me. They have some nice variations in the colour that remind me of curly maple (a dark-light kind of wave). They are marked "Made in England" "C/D 7512 95 4451" and "341-344Z", and have a "Phillips Cushion No Mark" sole. It looks like they have a 270deg welt.

    What can you tell me about them? How old would they be? To my untrained eye, they are similar to these:
    http://www.derbyshiredoula.co.uk/Da...Churchs-85D-Custom-Grade-EUC-Deadstoc/p_3474/

    Most importantly, they need some TLC. What products/procedures should I be throwing their way to get them looking their best?

    IMG_4772.JPG IMG_4773.JPG IMG_4774.JPG IMG_4775.JPG IMG_4776.JPG IMG_4777.JPG IMG_4783.JPG IMG_4784.JPG
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018 at 1:27 PM

  2. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

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    I have done the EXACT same thing, except mine was worse. I just used multiple applications of AE brown polish in that area and gradually darkened it some. I finally decided no one will notice except me. I, too, will be more careful.
     

  3. friendlygoz

    friendlygoz Senior Member

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    Thanks for that. Always feels better when others make the same mistake. Somehow shared misery is much better than misery alone. I applied some dark polish, and it helped a lot. I achieved an inverse of the color pattern on the original shoe, such that the raised grain is light, and the recessed part of the grain is dark. It's hard to decipher a difference unless you look really closely. Here is the before (as in when I got them) and after (of both the color correction and overall results). The process: wiped them down; saddle soap all over; saddle soap and toothbrush on welt to reveal contrast stitching under a ton of yuck; wipe inside w/ Lysol wipes and spray 10-second shoe sanitizer; direct sunlight for 6 hours (lots in the Bay Area - it was 80 yesterday) to get rid of musty, grandpa's basement smell; 2 rounds of Bick 4; 1 round of Saphir renovatour; sand the edges; Feibing's brown edge dressing; dark brown cream polish on the edges; new laces (might go w/ blue later). Love them... 59644712510751rr.jpg IMG_3496.jpeg IMG_3497.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2018 at 2:58 PM

  4. friendlygoz

    friendlygoz Senior Member

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    I just got some Dack's camel skin wingtips in walnut (paid a tad more than $8 on eBay). The grain looks a lot like the grain in my camel skins, which I love, BTW. So, I'd guess camel.
     

  5. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

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    They look terrific now. Good job.
     

  6. Lmrjfud

    Lmrjfud Senior Member

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    Am I the only one who contemplates taking a day off from work when I have a shoe delivery incoming?
    I had a life when I was young. Really. I mean it.
     

  7. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    @mariusscott is your man. He knows more about Canadian vintage shoes than I know about... criminal law.
     

  8. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    So most of my stuff now goes to my US mailing address, and then to my pick up point near my home.

    Once ebay confirms item has been dropped off, I check my pick up account several times a day. Sometimes several times an hour.
     

  9. friendlygoz

    friendlygoz Senior Member

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    I did mine (above) while "working from home." Try it!
     

  10. eTrojan

    eTrojan Senior Member

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  11. 2Deuce2

    2Deuce2 Distinguished Member

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  12. mariusscott

    mariusscott Well-Known Member

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    Lovely shoes, would say either camel or perhaps antelope, dacks had some wild looking antelope back then. Those are from the Dack's Bond Street period, made by cheaney/church in the UK in the late 50s and 60s. The highest quality line dack's had, and original soles and heels. Great find. They are labelled a standard 9.5D but from this period in time its hit or miss on sizing.
     

  13. Paul902

    Paul902 Senior Member

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    Thanks, guys, I appreciate you sharing those details. I found a Dack's thread tonight that I have been reading through. I saw this model referenced as being the Dufferin. The number markings are similar to the ones on (your Etsy site, Marius?), here, and visually to the ones on page 14 of the Dack's thread. It is so cool to find out the history behind these, and I'm looking forward to sprucing them up.
     

  14. Paul902

    Paul902 Senior Member

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    Those turned out nicely! You have to look closely to see any difference in the area the color came off now, and the welt stitch really stands out nicely as you had wanted.
     

  15. Shoonoob

    Shoonoob Senior Member

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    I own a pair of those. Mine came with a terrible rubber sole and I almost threw them away after 1 wear. Had them resoled with a steel shank new cork and leather sole. I like them a LOT now.
     

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