Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Oshare]

The whiteness is the wax coming back out of the leather. It is stuffed into the leather as it is being created. It’s normal and means the leather is healthy. Just brush and it goes away. You did not do it with the products.

All natural, brushing is all ya need. Great shine on those cap toes btw!

Thank you kindly. I'm relieved. Never experienced this with calf leather, so was a bit concerned.

I've finally gotten the hang of getting a nice shine on the toe areas. Took quite a bit of practice with learning just how much water and pressure to use.

 

[mormonopoly]

This week I wore these 1940's John McHale black on black spectators. They're a fantastic example of a spectator shoe that's still quite reserved.

 

[friendlygoz]

A tale of woe and sadness. I received my 1989 Florsheim Penfield’s (20308). Over the years, I’ve generally had excellent luck with my vintage eBay’d shoes and those I’ve acquired online. But this pair is a different matter.

They had a bad case of mold/mildew from being stored in a non-climate controlled basement or storage area. I immediately went ape on them and isopropyl’d the hell out of the interiors and exteriors... and then I used Clorox disinfectant wipes inside and out (several times). Then I saddle soaped them thoroughly followed by two applications of AE Conditioner Cleaner. Then I polished them with AE cream polish. The result:

They look gorgeous; nearly a dead ringer for a similar vintage (1987) AE Fifth Avenue, but with 7 eyelets (which, prior to 86, the Fifth Avenue also had 7).

Visually, besides the 7 eyelets, the only difference between the two shoes is the Florsheim cap-toe has three, rather than two, rows of stitching and the AE is built on a 360 welt, rather than 270. The last used by Florsheim for the Penfield is visually identical to the 65 last used by AE for the Fifth Avenue.

The Florsheim’s details are extremely well executed; the channeled and hidden welt top-stitch is very clean and the welt trimming is super-tight, just like with the AE and in keeping with the 80’s aesthetic of trying to look sleek (and not advertising their GYW construction). The upper stitching, as with all pre-mid 90’s Florsheim’s is super tight and clean (nobody did upper stitch detailing better than Florsheim).

It’s only on closer inspection that it becomes clear the Florsheim is the less expensive shoe; the AE’s are all leather, the upper leather is slightly thicker and of better quality (though the Florsheim’s exterior leather is very good, the stuff AE used at the time is better than virtually anything I’ve seen before or since from any brand). It’s on the inside that the Florsheim is a bigger step down: fiberboard insoles, with somewhat thin cotton drill linings, aren't comparable to the expensive all leather treatment of the Fifth Ave’s (though from a practical standpoint, I prefer the drill to leather, especially in the summer). It’s a shame they didn’t do an Imperial or Royal Imperial version of the Penfield (or maybe they did... @davidVC ?).

A bigger shame? I don’t know if these fantastic looking Florsheim’s will ever be wearable. Despite slathering them with biocides inside and out and cleaning them thoroughly, I’m not sure I’ll ever get that basement mildew smell out of them (it seems embedded into the leather). I’m open to suggestions as I’ve never had to address such a serious problem before. I’m open to any suggestions from the thread braintrust. I’d love to save these if at all possible.

I got a pair of AEs like that. They smelled like mildew. I put them in the hot sun for a couple of days, and it did the trick. I live in CA, so there's lots of sun. If it's not sunny where you live, you might have to wait a few months.

 

[obc28.5]

A tale of woe and sadness. I received my 1989 Florsheim Penfield’s (20308). Over the years, I’ve generally had excellent luck with my vintage eBay’d shoes and those I’ve acquired online. But this pair is a different matter.

They had a bad case of mold/mildew from being stored in a non-climate controlled basement or storage area. I immediately went ape on them and isopropyl’d the hell out of the interiors and exteriors... and then I used Clorox disinfectant wipes inside and out (several times). Then I saddle soaped them thoroughly followed by two applications of AE Conditioner Cleaner. Then I polished them with AE cream polish. The result:

They look gorgeous; nearly a dead ringer for a similar vintage (1987) AE Fifth Avenue, but with 7 eyelets (which, prior to 86, the Fifth Avenue also had 7).

Visually, besides the 7 eyelets, the only difference between the two shoes is the Florsheim cap-toe has three, rather than two, rows of stitching and the AE is built on a 360 welt, rather than 270. The last used by Florsheim for the Penfield is visually identical to the 65 last used by AE for the Fifth Avenue.

The Florsheim’s details are extremely well executed; the channeled and hidden welt top-stitch is very clean and the welt trimming is super-tight, just like with the AE and in keeping with the 80’s aesthetic of trying to look sleek (and not advertising their GYW construction). The upper stitching, as with all pre-mid 90’s Florsheim’s is super tight and clean (nobody did upper stitch detailing better than Florsheim).

It’s only on closer inspection that it becomes clear the Florsheim is the less expensive shoe; the AE’s are all leather, the upper leather is slightly thicker and of better quality (though the Florsheim’s exterior leather is very good, the stuff AE used at the time is better than virtually anything I’ve seen before or since from any brand). It’s on the inside that the Florsheim is a bigger step down: fiberboard insoles, with somewhat thin cotton drill linings, aren't comparable to the expensive all leather treatment of the Fifth Ave’s (though from a practical standpoint, I prefer the drill to leather, especially in the summer). It’s a shame they didn’t do an Imperial or Royal Imperial version of the Penfield (or maybe they did... @davidVC ?).

A bigger shame? I don’t know if these fantastic looking Florsheim’s will ever be wearable. Despite slathering them with biocides inside and out and cleaning them thoroughly, I’m not sure I’ll ever get that basement mildew smell out of them (it seems embedded into the leather). I’m open to suggestions as I’ve never had to address such a serious problem before. I’m open to any suggestions from the thread braintrust. I’d love to save these if at all possible.

I got a pair of old (pre-Sterling, post-little Urner) French Shriner blind brogue long wings with the same problem- when purchased (cheaply) the smell even left strong traces on the plastic bags they were sealed in to keep the smell from permeating the room. I had them professionally steam cleaned, used a UV shoe sterilizer device, charcoal inserts, sneaker perfume balls, alcohol and tree oil wipes, the works. It helped to cut down the sharpness of the smell (could be likened to the musty smell of an elderly person's home), but it still lingered. I then used a deodorizing powder marketed to hunters called N-O-DR II, made by the same company that makes Sno Seal. That helped quite a bit, but there is still a faint odor left. I may have to take them back to California next summer to get the full blast sunlight treatment on my parent's southern exposure home deck.

 

[eTrojan]

I got a pair of AEs like that. They smelled like mildew. I put them in the hot sun for a couple of days, and it did the trick. I live in CA, so there's lots of sun. If it's not sunny where you live, you might have to wait a few months.

Another option I might try is to go to Home Depot and get a bag of volcanic rocks used to deodorize musty basements. Rip open the bag and pour half in one shoe and half in the other. From there, I’d seal each shoe in a plastic bag and leave them for about a week.

But I agree that the sun is a great deodorizer. UV rays can cure a lot of ills.

 

[obc28.5]

Yet another option (I haven't tried) is using kitty litter (bentonite). Fill a couple of used pantyhose with it, and insert in each shoe. May be a good storage solution until the UV blast.

 

[wasmisterfu]

This week I wore these 1940's John McHale black on black spectators. They're a fantastic example of a spectator shoe that's still quite reserved.
View attachment 1055728

Stunning shoes.

 

[wasmisterfu]

Another option I might try is to go to Home Depot and get a bag of volcanic rocks used to deodorize musty basements. Rip open the bag and pour half in one shoe and half in the other. From there, I’d seal each shoe in a plastic bag and leave them for about a week.

But I agree that the sun is a great deodorizer. UV rays can cure a lot of ills.

I got a pair of AEs like that. They smelled like mildew. I put them in the hot sun for a couple of days, and it did the trick. I live in CA, so there's lots of sun. If it's not sunny where you live, you might have to wait a few months.

Thanks for the recommendations. Tomorrow, I’m going to hit the interiors again with isopropyl and then with some white vinegar, just to make sure there’s nothing growing inside. Then I’ll leave them outside in the sun and air them out for a few days. We’ll see how they’re doing after that.

 

[LLEE]

eTrojans advice is a good idea. You can also get activated charcoal (way more expensive) from detailing/autobody supply, which can help with some of foulest smelling cars you can imagine. I suspect your shoes would benefit greatly.

 

[wasmisterfu]

I got a pair of old (pre-Sterling, post-little Urner) French Shriner blind brogue long wings with the same problem- when purchased (cheaply) the smell even left strong traces on the plastic bags they were sealed in to keep the smell from permeating the room. I had them professionally steam cleaned, used a UV shoe sterilizer device, charcoal inserts, sneaker perfume balls, alcohol and tree oil wipes, the works. It helped to cut down the sharpness of the smell (could be likened to the musty smell of an elderly person's home), but it still lingered. I then used a deodorizing powder marketed to hunters called N-O-DR II, made by the same company that makes Sno Seal. That helped quite a bit, but there is still a faint odor left. I may have to take them back to California next summer to get the full blast sunlight treatment on my parent's southern exposure home deck.

Wow, that sounds quite a bit worse than the situation with these Penfield’s. After what I did today, they aren’t noticeable until you get them directly under your nose; though I wouldn’t trust that to remain true during or after wearing them.

 

[ORLThrifter]

This week I wore these 1940's John McHale black on black spectators. They're a fantastic example of a spectator shoe that's still quite reserved.
View attachment 1055728

*slow clap*

 

[suitforcourt]

This week I wore these 1940's John McHale black on black spectators. They're a fantastic example of a spectator shoe that's still quite reserved.
View attachment 1055728

Holy smoly!!!!!! Talk about rare, and handsome!

If I ever find a pair of those in my size... I'd be willing to pay $500+

 

[M635Guy]

Thank you kindly. I'm relieved. Never experienced this with calf leather, so was a bit concerned.

I've finally gotten the hang of getting a nice shine on the toe areas. Took quite a bit of practice with learning just how much water and pressure to use.

Shell isn't really a high-shine leather - more of a glow from long brushing sessions. Use of products should be seldom and in very small amounts. Most care is occasional wiping with a damp cloth and brushing (the longer the better). I brush all of my shoes for a few seconds before wearing and a bit more thoroughly after (though still less than a minute each).

The best care-guide I could offer comes from mdubs here on this forum:
http://aldenofsandiego.com/caring-for-your-shell-cordovan/

He's got more shell than anyone I've ever heard of...

 

[M635Guy]

Wow, that sounds quite a bit worse than the situation with these Penfield’s. After what I did today, they aren’t noticeable until you get them directly under your nose; though I wouldn’t trust that to remain true during or after wearing them.

Yeah - if there was stuff actively growing, especially on the inside, I'd worry about the places I can't get to...

I've got a must-battle going on with a Vintage Filson bag. I've been spraying it heavily with cheap vodka and leaving it in the sun for the day (the recommendation from the crew on the Filson thread here) and it has helped (it's a process), but I've also purchased some activated charcoal (which come with cloth bags to put it in) and I'm going to seal it up for a week with a bunch of that starting this weekend (probably).

 

[meister]

I got a pair of old (pre-Sterling, post-little Urner) French Shriner blind brogue long wings with the same problem- when purchased (cheaply) the smell even left strong traces on the plastic bags they were sealed in to keep the smell from permeating the room. I had them professionally steam cleaned, used a UV shoe sterilizer device, charcoal inserts, sneaker perfume balls, alcohol and tree oil wipes, the works. It helped to cut down the sharpness of the smell (could be likened to the musty smell of an elderly person's home), but it still lingered. I then used a deodorizing powder marketed to hunters called N-O-DR II, made by the same company that makes Sno Seal. That helped quite a bit, but there is still a faint odor left. I may have to take them back to California next summer to get the full blast sunlight treatment on my parent's southern exposure home deck.

Use a little watered down mild bleach on a handex wipe inside and leave and redo if necessary.