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Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smfdoc, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

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    All are correct that they are polished cobbler. This is an excellent example of watching out for polished cobbler, despite the style number. 9147 was used for shell, but AE then used the exact same number for polished cobbler. Causes confusion and someone will buy them to be sadly disappointed.
     

  2. Shoonoob

    Shoonoob Senior Member

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    @wasmisterfu I finally decided on color for saddles. Did not think a lighter brown was going to work given the original color so I will try to replicate the two toned burgundy shell. Base coat of dye turned out very promising. We shall see how my brush and blending skills work out.
    20181007_210928.jpg 20181011_202339.jpg
     

  3. kilowatts

    kilowatts Senior Member

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    As of this morning Brannock size 11 wide. In real life, 11 1/2D. I have 11E in AE Leeds, fits well. 12C in vintage Florsheim, fits well. 11D Alden Barrie and Modified lasts, fits well etc. As you all know sizing in vintage shoes can be a bit of a gamble so I generally take the stated size as a guide rather than fact. If the shoe is a big assed American Blucher then I'll take a lower size than a skinny assed Italian loafer or a narrow looking last.

    For example, I bought a pair of really nice English suede brogue Oxfords at retail in England once. They were my supposed size and I almost crippled myself for a year before I got the message that looks and size take a back seat to comfort. I know this was a bit of a long winded answer but it's the best I can do. Still not sure about coloured laces!

    kilowatts
     

  4. Shoonoob

    Shoonoob Senior Member

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    20180917_210111.jpg
    It isn't scary. You can do it!
     

  5. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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  6. wasmisterfu

    wasmisterfu Distinguished Member

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    Thankfully the seller wasn’t doing that soft-focus, low-light, fuzzy picture nonsense. At least with these you can clearly see the creases and wrinkles of CG.
     

  7. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Distinguished Member

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    I have recently seen a lot of shoes that the seller claims are Shell Cordovan. It annoys me because Shell is a very select and semi rare material. I hate it when sellers try to use key words and don't know they are doing.

    Last week I sent the following message to about 20 sellers that were selling something as shell cordovan that clearly was not:

    "These shoes are not shell cordovan (horse leather) they are ordinary calf skin. You can tell by the hairline creasing. They also have the wrong style number for Shell cordovan"

    Most of the sellers emailed me back and said thanks. Several changed their listings. But, a few have kept the description.
     

  8. meister

    meister Distinguished Member

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    Nice modern last
     

  9. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Distinguished Member

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    I wanted to wear my Custom Florsheim Suede LWB today. But, its raining again!

    I disinfected the Dexter Shortwings I got yesterday and decided to try them on. Despite the CG, I like them!

    IMG_3656.jpg
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    My real choice today was my Lloyd's (not sure if that is a store or maker) Saddle Shoes. I'm a sucker for Saddles, so I really like these. I was a little concerned these are CG. But, I thought since there was a slight scratch, they probably were not. I involuntarily got to try the water drop test (Rain) and am now confident they are not CG.

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  10. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    One of my favourite vintage pairs. B Mason Executive Imperial.

    Happy Friday to the brotherhood!

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  11. wasmisterfu

    wasmisterfu Distinguished Member

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    The Dexter’s are nice looking, but man, they’re all kinds of Dexter-y in the details (like what’s going on with the welt skyyving at the interior waist of the shoe?). Never-the-less, a good rainy day shoe that’s still better than most main-line 150 dollar shoes today.

    Now those saddles, however, look like something quite a bit more special. I could be wrong, but I think those are Hanover made Lloyd & Haig (for the old NY store). The welt style, purposely angled fudging/wheeling and stitching details say Hanover to me. Those are terrific examples of old-school saddles; I especially like the brass eyelets.
     

  12. wasmisterfu

    wasmisterfu Distinguished Member

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  13. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Distinguished Member

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    Re: the Dexters. They will serve a purpose. Decent looking and good for light rain days. They are comfortable and the leather sole shows very little wear. I could wear them frequently and they will last for years. Nothing special, but also a decent shoe.

    Thanks! I love all Saddle Shoes especially old school versions!

    They might be Hanover. The insole on one shoe shows part of the old Logo. But, it says Lloyd's. I think it could be a store name -- especially because it is only in one shoe. The logo is VERY hard to read and even harder to photograph. But, here is a picture of it and a picture of style number if that helps identify them.

    IMG_3660.jpg IMG_3661.jpg
     

  14. wasmisterfu

    wasmisterfu Distinguished Member

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    So I am almost certain those are Hanover’s (based on style codes, etc), but whatever Lloyd’s that is, I’m pretty sure it’s not Lloyd & Haig. I wonder what store it was?
     

  15. Nobleprofessor

    Nobleprofessor Distinguished Member

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