1. Hi, I'm the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Puchases through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.

Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smfdoc, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    5,870
    Likes Received:
    23,198
    Joined:
    May 25, 2015
    Location:
    Los Angeles. "Swimmin' pools; movie stars."
    I want to also give a shout out for the watch list at Vcleat.com. Despite my compulsive review of Ebay I found my last two shoes on the watch list. NOS Florsheims and NOS AE Chesters in alligator. Go there frequently, but be prepared to have it result in compulsive shoe purchases.

    IMG_3137.jpg IMG_0592.jpg
     

  2. kilowatts

    kilowatts Senior Member

    Messages:
    331
    Likes Received:
    888
    Joined:
    Oct 9, 2016
    Location:
    Vancouver, BC.
    Nice alligators!

    kilowatts
     

  3. mosy

    mosy Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,323
    Likes Received:
    687
    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2014
    I understand that most Tods loafers, especially their drivers, are made in a way that makes it impossible to resole. What about loafers like these that have a leather sole and seem to be made with a more traditional construction:

    Anybody know if these are resoleable? IMG_6395.PNG
     

  4. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,675
    Likes Received:
    3,453
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Location:
    Greater Toronto Area
    @Timeless-guy and @nickV should have answer as they are both skilled cobblers.
     

  5. CWOyaji

    CWOyaji Senior Member

    Messages:
    993
    Likes Received:
    6,372
    Joined:
    Nov 20, 2016
    Location:
    Left Coast
    I believe it was @davidVC who posited a while back that a man can't have too many longwings. Maybe I'm wrong about that, but it sounds like something he might say. I think it is possible to have too many of the exact same model, which is my current dilemma with the three pairs of 96624's and one 92604s that are crowding my shoe rack. Time to sell one pair and then regroup. These are from 1993 (FD) in 14 C. For your viewing pleasure.
    fullsizeoutput_1297.jpeg
    fullsizeoutput_127e.jpeg
    fullsizeoutput_127d.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Jul 11, 2018

  6. wasmisterfu

    wasmisterfu Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,571
    Likes Received:
    6,686
    Joined:
    May 11, 2018
    Location:
    Northern New Jersey
    So everything is resoleable, it’s just a matter of whether it’s a hack (glueing stuff on top of stuff), rework (sewing a welt to a formally glued shoe) or a legit resole of a serviceable shoe (GYW, Blake, etc). Very talented and skilled cobblers can do amazing things.

    With that said, Tod’s aren’t serviceable shoes (according to them) which means any resole will be a hack or rework with varying degrees of success. To that point, here’s a short video purporting to show a pair of loafers, similar to the ones you posted, before and after resoling:


    You can see a discussion from four years, along with my response (that I should never buy Tod’s) here: https://www.styleforum.net/threads/tods-sole-replacement.212092/page-2#post-7130997

    I’ve never seen a pair pulled apart, so I don’t know exactly how they’re constructed.
     

  7. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,675
    Likes Received:
    3,453
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Location:
    Greater Toronto Area
    I am not a cobbler, but from personal experience, I was told Dr. Martens and Blundstone soles cannot be replaced. Numerous cobblers said jobs cannot be done.

    @Timeless-guy replaced my doc heels and said soles can also be replaced.

    Quick Cobbler showed me various Blundstone soles they were in the middle of replacing.

    Maybe one needs to find the right cobbler?
     

  8. wasmisterfu

    wasmisterfu Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,571
    Likes Received:
    6,686
    Joined:
    May 11, 2018
    Location:
    Northern New Jersey
    A really good master cobbler (with shoemaking skills) can perform magic.

    But, there are limits. A serviceable shoe, like GYW shoe, is designed to be resoled and, eventually, recrafted. This means I can perform 3, perhaps 4 resolings on the same welt before the welt is worn out. Then I send it to a master cobbler (or, if still in business, back to the factory) and they relast the shoe and replace the welt. Depending on upper wear, linings and, most importantly, insole condition, it’s possible to get anywhere from 9-16 resolings done on a single pair (possibly more) thanks to a combination of resoling and recrafting (rewelting).

    In contrast, if simply pulling off and reglueing soles, you’ll probably get two resoles max before the sanding and replacement wear and tear makes the upper unsound.

    In between these two extremes are a bunch of solutions, ranging from blake to welt conversion.
     

  9. Nick V.

    Nick V. Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    1,644
    Likes Received:
    592
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Any reputable cobbler can re-sole those.

    Drivers can be re-soled without the rubber studs though. The studs can be sanded down even to the leather and a new leather sole is Blake stitched to the upper. Then a leather heel base and top-lift is added.

    Essentially the driver sole is replaced with a leather sole making the shoe serviceable again.
     

  10. Thomas Crown

    Thomas Crown Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,242
    Likes Received:
    5,682
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2017
    Location:
    Milwaukee
    I’d have them on right now!
     

  11. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    5,870
    Likes Received:
    23,198
    Joined:
    May 25, 2015
    Location:
    Los Angeles. "Swimmin' pools; movie stars."
    Tonight, my friends. Tonight.

    Screen Shot 2018-07-11 at 8.25.31 AM.png
     

  12. Thomas Crown

    Thomas Crown Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,242
    Likes Received:
    5,682
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2017
    Location:
    Milwaukee
    +1 on the motto-but what’s the Latin for “I usually have them out in the wild the day after aquiring”?
     

  13. instigateur

    instigateur Senior Member

    Messages:
    783
    Likes Received:
    4,904
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2017
    Location:
    Illinois (NW Suburbs)
    Wingtip Wednesday!

    Sorry for the Nunn Bush haters, but I love these shoes. Especially in the early morning light. 0711180731.jpeg
     

  14. Thomas Crown

    Thomas Crown Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,242
    Likes Received:
    5,682
    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2017
    Location:
    Milwaukee
    We have an old shine chair at the barbershop with those same cast iron foot rests,chair is from 20’s I believe
     

  15. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    2,675
    Likes Received:
    3,453
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Location:
    Greater Toronto Area
    Whoever hates on those should be ex-communicated. Wonderful shoes.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.