1. Welcome to our newest affiliate vendor, Atelier Wen We are very happy to welcome our newest affiliate vendor, Atelier Wen focusing on quality mechanical watches proudly made in China.

Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smfdoc, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. M635Guy

    M635Guy Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    5,614
    Likes Received:
    10,761
    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2015
    Location:
    Cary, NC
    Those are fantastic
     


  2. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Likes Received:
    2,311
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Location:
    Greater Toronto Area
    On a rainy day, pulled out this pair of Italian made Johnston Murphys. My mom bought these for me when I first joined the workforce about 10 years ago.

    These are likely blake construction or some other glued manufacturing. But very comfortable.

    Just recently put on new heels and topy so they are one of my beater pairs.

    Still on the hunt for a pair of US made Johnston Murphys! IMG_20180613_061204.jpg IMG_20180613_061211.jpg
     


  3. wasmisterfu

    wasmisterfu Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,567
    Likes Received:
    4,418
    Joined:
    May 11, 2018
    Location:
    Northern New Jersey
    So here is the weird thing about J&M Italian models (especially the loafers in the "hand crafted in Italy" line)... some of them are of ridiculously good quality (for the price-point). I'm talking loafers with really slick closed-channel blake construction (yeah, if you see no welt and no bottom stitch on the sole, that doesn't mean it's cemented), really excellent uppers, etc.. I don't know who they contract out to, but I think they might be making some of them way better than they intend to.
     


  4. instigateur

    instigateur Senior Member

    Messages:
    555
    Likes Received:
    3,444
    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2017
    Location:
    Illinois (NW Suburbs)
    $25 Project Shoes on their inaugural wearing.

    Nunn Bush Longwings in Walnut 0420182226.jpeg 0613180916.jpeg
     


  5. Gosport

    Gosport Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    189
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2017
    First time wearing my Florsheim Royal Imperial Color 8 shell longwings. I got these a week ago, thrift funded off eBay, stripped down with reno'mat then did some conditioning with lexol/venetian, followed up with the Mac method. I still can't get quite the shine I desire, I know David at vCleat has used Bick 4 and Collonil, anyone have an opinion on the shine those allow you to produce?

    IMG_20180613_121315050.jpg IMG_20180613_121430207.jpg

    Another question - vCleat states most Royal Imperials are 1990+, but these have a vcleat flush with the outside of the heel, typical of the older soles. They don't have the numerous nails, so maybe these are 90s but resoled? Any ideas?
    152890699024850009103.jpg

    Lastly, I also just received a pair of 70s/80s florsheim tan buck saddle shoes that were linked on vCleat, will share those in the next week or so. Thanks to David for the asisst, those were priced really low.
     


  6. eTrojan

    eTrojan Senior Member

    Messages:
    273
    Likes Received:
    980
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Had the Church’s Cotswold wingtips re-heeled. Used a well-regarded cobbler (4.5 stars) whose shop has been around for 30+ years, but the guy doing the work took over from his uncle about 10 years ago.

    While I appreciate his willingness to try to replicate the nail patterns, I’m not impressed with his hammer skills. A couple nails are buried, and there’s a fair amount of inconsistency in the spacing.

    I guess I’m still looking for a cobbler I trust. There is one mid-city that appears more promising, though I have to go a little out of my way to use them.

    5CAB2561-D80F-4E1E-990A-E821CC09FACC.jpeg C5F4AA5F-8117-41BE-9AF1-4ADCB2E3EB69.jpeg
     


  7. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Likes Received:
    2,311
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Location:
    Greater Toronto Area
    Someone else can obviously chime in. I don't think those are the original v-cleat heels. Likely a replacement by a cobbler.
     


  8. Gosport

    Gosport Active Member

    Messages:
    37
    Likes Received:
    189
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2017
    That's what I was kind of thinking as the lining looks newer inside as well, figure a full recraft may have been done. either way the uppers are in great shape, soles have some years left (I work outside in boots half the time so my shoes don't get too much wear/abuse), and they feel comfortable.
     


  9. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Likes Received:
    2,311
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Location:
    Greater Toronto Area
    Also for "shining" shell cordovan, my personal experience is just LOTS of brushing. Lots and lots. And then some Collonil 1909 for colour. And then more brushing. When your arm is too tired. Rest. And then brush some more. I guess the natural qualities of shell allow it to shine with simple brushing.

    @davidVC and @smfdoc are more experienced and knowledgeable, so they might offer other tid bits.
     


  10. Lmrjfud

    Lmrjfud Senior Member

    Messages:
    591
    Likes Received:
    2,030
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2016
    Location:
    People's Republic of NJ
    I sure wish I could take credit for the condition of these shoes. All I had to do was give them a quick brush, maybe 15 seconds each. These were worn maybe a half dozen times before now. Barely any heel wear.
    I still can't believe you can get shoes like this for $50.
    92604s date code GE

    [​IMG]
     


  11. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    1,936
    Likes Received:
    2,311
    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2012
    Location:
    Greater Toronto Area
    What size? If 9ee, I think those are in horrible condition. You unfortunately wasted your money and have dumped your savings into a dying investment.

    As your shoe friend, and as a human being, I am happy to take them off your hands, and thus relieving you from the agony.

    What are shoe friends for?
     


  12. Lmrjfud

    Lmrjfud Senior Member

    Messages:
    591
    Likes Received:
    2,030
    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2016
    Location:
    People's Republic of NJ
    These are 9 EEE, so I guess they will have to stay with me.:)
     


  13. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

    Messages:
    5,237
    Likes Received:
    19,098
    Joined:
    May 25, 2015
    Location:
    Los Angeles. "Swimmin' pools; movie stars."
    See, I was correct in advising that you buy them before someone else got them. Terrific shoes period. Even better at the incredible price you paid. I have paid far more for the same shoe and still feel they were a great value.
     


  14. eTrojan

    eTrojan Senior Member

    Messages:
    273
    Likes Received:
    980
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2017
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Wearing the mystery Florsheim Imperial Kenmoors today. Visually, they seem to most closely match the “Weathered Moss” on @davidVC’s site, but since the model/size/date info is handwritten in pen, it’s hard to know what they are specifically. Sometimes they look brown. Sometimes they have a greenish tinge. They’re darker/muddier than they show in the photos. The indoor one is too light and the outdoor one is too red.

    2B9B4A65-4A4C-44A7-842A-57278B1431C6.jpeg DB48A891-A48B-490D-AD03-FCA43DA541FF.jpeg

    C0E2A752-9325-4450-A793-E1171091D36E.jpeg
     


  15. LLEE

    LLEE Senior Member

    Messages:
    231
    Likes Received:
    855
    Joined:
    Nov 28, 2017
    I had the most bizarre dream.
    Long story short, my ex and I are each sewn between two leather soles, acting like cowhide body bags, by some sort of murderous cordwainer. An unknown figure comes to the rescue, freeing one of us by ripping the insole from outer, stitch by stitch. "Blake!" our hero exclaims, frantically rushing over to pull apart the second cow casket. Try as he might, our hero fails at freeing the second soul. Suffocation closing in, our hero tugging and pulling mightily, the cordwainer laughs aloud.
    "Welted!"

    I never did figure out who was saved, and who died via quality footwear. But I can't shake the feeling that, somehow, someway, shoes will be the death of me.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

  1. This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
    By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.