Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[smfdoc]

Happy Wednesday forum pals. Defying all convention and peer pressure I have opted for these Florsheim Royal Imperials PTBs on a wingtip Wednesday. Yes, that is how I roll. These deep Coca-cola red PTBs took 7 years to find as they did not come in EEE unless they were a special order. I did manage to find a customer name of Richard (something) that was illegible. So, hats off to Richard for taking the time to have these created. This next owner is eternally grateful.

 

[Satoman1]

I see what you mean. That does look like a lower-end version of a higher-end shoe. To me, it's most visible on the sides - the leather looks less supple due to quality, rather than condition. The stitching is far more utilitarian and (if such a thing can be said about shoes like these) the stitching is also slightly ugly.

The overall appearance reminds me a little of not-yet-bad-but-no-longer-great Stacey-Adams.

The topy looks like a reasonably good installation, and it's nice that the cobbler didn't carelessly cut through the original text. But I don't like how it looks.

Yes that's what I mean, it's a bad build on a nice classic last, I didn't buy it because the price is quite high for that quality.

 

[mormonopoly]

These are 1988 AE MacNeils. Newer than I usually go for, but I found these in unworn condition at a thrift store.

 

[mormonopoly]

Here's another unworn pair. These are 1950s Weyenbergs.

 

[suitforcourt]

Stuart McGuire in shell that I bought from @davidVC .

A purple theme for a Friday meeting.

 

[Bopper]

Happy Wednesday forum pals. Defying all convention and peer pressure I have opted for these Florsheim Royal Imperials PTBs on a wingtip Wednesday. Yes, that is how I roll. These deep Coca-cola red PTBs took 7 years to find as they did not come in EEE unless they were a special order. I did manage to find a customer name of Richard (something) that was illegible. So, hats off to Richard for taking the time to have these created. This next owner is eternally grateful.

View attachment 2228947

Beauties.

 

[Bopper]

Recently, I bought these dark brown saddle oxfords in shell cordovan and crocodile I believe and I wanted to know if anyone knew what brand this could have been from and the possible year(s) it could have been made. These are the first and only oxfords I currently own as most of my shoes are bluchers and derby's.
View attachment 2228759 View attachment 2228769 View attachment 2228771

Interesting. They look like they are sturdier than most saddle shoes.

 

[suitforcourt]

Office day in cool wet weather. Mason Executive Imperials got the call. Still one of my favourite vintage pairs.

 

[mormonopoly]

These are 1950s by an unknown British maker.

 

[mormonopoly]

Here's another unworn pair. These are white suede shoes by AS Beck. They have a 1941 date stamp inside.

 

[sam67]

Here's another unworn pair. These are white suede shoes by AS Beck. They have a 1941 date stamp inside. View attachment 2231943 View attachment 2231945 View attachment 2231947 View attachment 2231949 View attachment 2231951

You have me beat by 3 years.

 

[actionjbone]

Gentlemen! I'm very late following up on my recrafted Chelseas - the ones I brought to Raul at Master Shoe Repair.

He'd originally told me 3 weeks. It actually took just over 6 - I had a feeling he was overpromising how quickly he could get it done, since I knew how much work it was. I told him that, next time, he should just tell me it'll take longer! I'm happy to wait for quality.

(Then I got sick and never got around to taking photos, but I'm better now!)

First, a "before" shot, to remind you how they were screwed up by another cobbler, long before I got my hands on them:

Now they're fully re-welted, in addition to new heel stack and new oak tanned soles.

I asked for a natural edge, no dye. And these look pretty fantastic, in my opinion. The welt seam is better looking than I've seen on plenty of modern Allen Edmonds. Raul mimicked the thread color and length from the original welt.

Originally, I was planning to have these recrafted with Vibram 430s. But Raul picked up some great oak-tanned soles at a shoe convention, and he talked me into going with one of those instead.

At first, part of me regretted not getting rubber soles on these - but now that I've walked a couple miles in them, I really love how they feel.

They're a bit over conditioned - I'm getting a little bloom from the creases. But I'll get that fixed up in time, just needs plenty of brushing and buffing.

Also, one of the rear pull tabs had been torn off by the past owner. Raul did a good enough job replacing that, all things considered.

That part will be under a pant leg, so I'm not really concerned that it's not a perfect match. And I know it'll darken over time. I've tested it and it's sturdy, and that's really what counts.

Thoughts? Questions?

 

[suitforcourt]

Gentlemen! I'm very late following up on my recrafted Chelseas - the ones I brought to Raul at Master Shoe Repair.

He'd originally told me 3 weeks. It actually took just over 6 - I had a feeling he was overpromising how quickly he could get it done, since I knew how much work it was. I told him that, next time, he should just tell me it'll take longer! I'm happy to wait for quality.

(Then I got sick and never got around to taking photos, but I'm better now!)

First, a "before" shot, to remind you how they were screwed up by another cobbler, long before I got my hands on them:

View attachment 2233065

Now they're fully re-welted, in addition to new heel stack and new oak tanned soles.

View attachment 2233053
View attachment 2233061
View attachment 2233063
View attachment 2233057

I asked for a natural edge, no dye. And these look pretty fantastic, in my opinion. The welt seam is better looking than I've seen on plenty of modern Allen Edmonds. Raul mimicked the thread color and length from the original welt.

Originally, I was planning to have these recrafted with Vibram 430s. But Raul picked up some great oak-tanned soles at a shoe convention, and he talked me into going with one of those instead.

At first, part of me regretted not getting rubber soles on these - but now that I've walked a couple miles in them, I really love how they feel.

View attachment 2233055

They're a bit over conditioned - I'm getting a little bloom from the creases. But I'll get that fixed up in time, just needs plenty of brushing and buffing.

Also, one of the rear pull tabs had been torn off by the past owner. Raul did a good enough job replacing that, all things considered.

View attachment 2233059

That part will be under a pant leg, so I'm not really concerned that it's not a perfect match. And I know it'll darken over time. I've tested it and it's sturdy, and that's really what counts.

Thoughts? Questions?

That looks like very good work. If you really want a rubber sole... you can always have sole savers added. Especially the Vibram 430s. Wear it good health!

 

[actionjbone]

That looks like very good work. If you really want a rubber sole... you can always have sole savers added. Especially the Vibram 430s. Wear it good health!

Yeah, if I get tired of the leather I'll do that next. But so far I'm pretty happy.

 

[sam67]

‘Resort holiday’ dress code with these Johnston and Murphy’s. Happy Saturday.