Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[LLEE]

I've got a question on vintage Dack's sizing. I'm hoping to patronize ScotkinVintage's store, but I've never owned a pair of Dack's or Hartt and I don't know how they fit.

I'm a 10.5D or 10E in vintage Hanover and modern AE, but for vintage Florsheim I'm like 9.75D.

Anyone have insight?

FWIW, I am consistently a 9D in Dacks, which fit slightly larger than my 9D AEs which fit the same as my 8.5D Hanovers. I do have a pair of Dacks from *84 which are a D, but feel more like an E.

 

[kilowatts]

Hi Guys:

For what It's worth, I am consistently either 11.5D or 11E in vintage Dack's. I go with the EE fitting when the last looks a little narrow. Hartt on the other hand, has been a little more problematic as I find them a little narrow overall. Not quite there yet!

High quality shoes, exotic skins available and like most Canadian shoes built like tanks. Quite conservative in design though, they seem to be a bit of a mix of US and British styles.

A friend of mine with the Canadian Corrections Department gave me 4 pairs of NIB Brown Shoes of Canada prison issue shoes! I loved them to bits but sadly, they were not quite my size so I donated them. I think Brown Shoes of Canada had contracts with branches of the Canadian armed forces and obviously Corrections. My feeling is that they were a division of Dack or Hartt but I'm not sure.

kilowatts

 

[eTrojan]

There is a pair of 13C shell cordovan tassel loafers from Bostonians "made in USA" era on Ebay. They're labeled 13A, which would have worked for me, but the description below shows them as 13 C/A. Buy it now for $129, but the Make Offer button is active.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSTONIAN-Black-Shell-Cordovan-Tassel-Loafers-Shoes-13-A/222847548447

Not my shoes (but they might have been if they were actually a 13 A).

 

[Thomas Crown]

+1 on the reputable local cobblers,I had a customer in today with some AE McClains that he had resoled by the same old Russian cobbler that I use and had some nice contrast welt stitching done- hard to tell in the lighting,it’s kind of a burnt orange thread- might do a poor man’s smfdoc and put some ivory welt stitch on some spare black Kenmoors!

 

[davidVC]

About five years ago I bought a pair of Florsheim shell cordovan 93605. It was my first pair in my size. I felt like I overpaid for them at the time. They had very little wear based on the soles.

When I got them, I inserted shoe trees and then wiped them with a damp cloth. And on my first wipe they cracked. Right on the vamp.

I tried a number of ways to cover the crack but nothing worked. I tried to convince myself that I could wear them even with the crack. Denial. I went through some of the other stages of grief - anger, bargaining, and depression. At one point I threw them in the trash in disgust only to later pull them out later in the day. Eventually I sold the pair to someone on ebay for $50. Acceptance. Sort of.

Looking back at the pair, the shoes were probably never conditioned and likely stored in non-optimal conditions (i.e. hot attic). The shell was brittle. Maybe a heavy conditioning regime could have prevented the crack but I am doubting it.

Here were some photos of the pair and crack.

 

[suitforcourt]

I joined the "nice shoes" game when I joined the work force in 2008. Initially, I was buying English made Dacks. But I did my own research on GYW shoes, and came across @davidVC 's vcleat.com website, and finally, this thread.

I have learned so much from everyone's posts, and helpful comments and input.

This thread has singlehandedly helped me build a love for LWBS and US made vintage shoes.

To end my speech, please enjoy these Dexters. One of my best fitting pairs that seem to get called to service a lot.

Happy Friday, and enjoy the weekend!

 

[Thomas Crown]

Posted this shoe over on the AE thread,not terribly vintage(maybe 2012) but a remarkable ebay score. AE Norwich monks in dark green shell—seller just posted two dark photos that I vaguely determined that they may be shell-for $70 I took a shot-Bingo!,they were green shell custom shoes that fit great,check them out

 

[DoubleOldFashioned]

Posted this shoe over on the AE thread,not terribly vintage(maybe 2012) but a remarkable ebay score. AE Norwich monks in dark green shell—seller just posted two dark photos that I vaguely determined that they may be shell-for $70 I took a shot-Bingo!,they were green shell custom shoes that fit great,check them out View attachment 930799 View attachment 930800 View attachment 930801 View attachment 930802

WOW

 

[tocohillsguy]

Posted this shoe over on the AE thread,not terribly vintage(maybe 2012) but a remarkable ebay score. AE Norwich monks in dark green shell—seller just posted two dark photos that I vaguely determined that they may be shell-for $70 I took a shot-Bingo!,they were green shell custom shoes that fit great,check them out View attachment 930799 View attachment 930800 View attachment 930801 View attachment 930802

Saw those on Ebay. I would have made a run for them if they were my size. Congrats.

 

[meister]

Hey guys! First post!

Anyone know anything about these? Just picked them up at the thrift shop the other day. Never heard of the "Frank Brothers" Johnston & Murphy line.

View attachment 929763

View attachment 929768

View attachment 929769
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J&M made for Frank Bros which was a top shoe store. Probably higher spec than regular J&Ms. Two pairs is a great score.

 

[meister]

Photos and update on Banister Shoe refurbishment:
After cleaning and double round of Lexol neatsfoot.
View attachment 928626

Glycerine treatment. Pre and post photos show grain and color change with absorption . View attachment 928627
After an overnight swaddling!
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Markings on inside lining. Does anyone here have knowledge of the brand to share?
View attachment 928629

Have a great day y'all!

Banisters are a top shoe absorbed and manufactured later by Stetson. They had their own shops to sell the brand (I believe) at one stage.

 

[suitforcourt]

I am taking a 6 month break from perusing eBay to buy new shoes. An addiction has developed and I need to deal with it.

Fear not, I will still post pics of my collection and engage with the group to share my knowledge and passion.

 

[smfdoc]

I am taking a 6 month break from perusing eBay to buy new shoes. An addiction has developed and I need to deal with it.

Fear not, I will still post pics of my collection and engage with the group to share my knowledge and passion.

You are preaching to the choir my friend. Never fear, nothing good was going to come up in the next 6 months. Just keep posting those pictures.

 

[M635Guy]

Celebrating the 29th anniversary of meeting my wife tonight, so wearing shoes only a bit older than that...

 

[smfdoc]

Celebrating the 29th anniversary of meeting my wife tonight, so wearing shoes only a bit older than that...

Congrats on the anniversary. I'm at 38 years myself. Staying married for the long term is very tough and something to celebrate if it occurs. My wife and I have our disagreements, but in the end, someone always says they are sorry. And I say, "That's okay, just don't do it again." Solid shoes for a great occasion.