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Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smfdoc, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. Allen Dreadmon

    Allen Dreadmon Senior member

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    9C. Procured from ebay. I paid shipping (twice) and taxes but they were still a steal (OK, not so much a steal, but damn worth it!). [​IMG]


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    2 people like this.
  2. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

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  3. Allen Dreadmon

    Allen Dreadmon Senior member

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    Thank you @smfdoc. The date code is AB. Does that not mean January '82?
     
  4. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

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    The months start at A for January, and so on. The years start with A for 0, such as 1980. So AB would be January and a year that ends in 1. Your v cleat is inset into the heel, which occurred in 1973. So the AB could not be for 1971. Florsheim made the 93605 from 1960 to 1988. So the only "1" year available for your shoes is 1981. After 1988 they changed the style number to 97626 and added the designation "Royal" to the shoe.
     
  5. Allen Dreadmon

    Allen Dreadmon Senior member

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    ^^ thanks for the clarification!
     
  6. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

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    Those beautiful 93605 inspired me to sport mine today. They go great with blue.

    [​IMG]
     
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  7. VegTan

    VegTan Senior member

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    Yeah, L B Sheppard's v-cleats are hard to find. Probably the clear label of MADE IN U.S.A. was made after the 1970s to 1980s and no MADE IN U.S.A. label around the 1960s to 1970s.


    Interestingly, this Iron Age by Bostonian around the 1970s has the Hanover's (probably) FD mark. Clarks bought Hanover in 1977 and Bostonian in 1980.
    http://web.archive.org/web/20110120012406/http://www.clarksusa.com/eng/aboutus/aboutclarks.cfm

     
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  8. VegTan

    VegTan Senior member

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    A History of Long Wing Bluchers


    1963 Allen Edmonds
    https://issuu.com/allenedmonds/docs/1963-catalog
    [​IMG]


    1959 Nettleton
    https://news.google.com/newspapers?...v9XAAAAIBAJ&sjid=HfcDAAAAIBAJ&pg=1655,3592368
    [​IMG]


    1954 Roblee (Brown Shoe Company)
    http://blog.dancestore.com/2013/09/05/1954-roblee-flying-wing-mens-shoe/)
    [​IMG]


    1950 Florsheim
    The VIKING. Extended Wing Tip Blucher in Golden Brown Random Grain, Storm-welted full double soles. $22.50
    https://www.newspapers.com/newspage/97412401/
    [​IMG]


    1948 British Walkers (J.P. Smith Shoe Company)
    A RICH BROWN SUEDE SHOE with the new long wing-tip styling, leather sole and heel : (top left) $19.05
    [​IMG]

    http://www.bambootrading.com/proddetail.asp?prod=1463
    [​IMG]


    Let me know when you guys find out the first appearance of each shoemaker's LWB, especially older ads than British Walkers. I'd appreciate it.
     
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  9. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

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    Wonderful stuff. I look forward to following the URLs you listed. I do have a 1960 catalog from AE for the MacNeil and it has the same image as the one you used for the 1963 catalog.
     
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  10. davidVC

    davidVC Well-Known Member

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    I believe the elaborate Hanover "FD" mark means "Factory Defect".

    I once had a NOS pair of model 2365 Hanover LWBs and the medallian was clearly off center. Which was disappointing when I noticed it. The pair had the same "FD" mark and logo.
     
    Last edited: Aug 19, 2016
  11. davidVC

    davidVC Well-Known Member

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    Nice ads.

    I didn't live through the era but looking at old ads but I believe the long wing style (blucher with medallian, broguing, double leather soles, storm welt and extended cap toe), became popular in the late 1950s. The first mainstream ad for one that I have seen was an 1951 Esquire ad for a Florsheim Viking S-1405.
     
  12. davidVC

    davidVC Well-Known Member

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    I just cleaned up a pair of vintage Shell Cordovan Florsheim Imperial 93606 PTBs. The date code wore off but I believe the pair is from the 1960s based on the heel.

    You can see why old Shell is sought after. It develops an amazing depth of color with age. In the last photo, I put a modern Allen Edmonds Shell Cordovan MacNeil 9097 for color comparison.

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  13. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

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    Dave, those are really beauties. What was your primary method of cleaning?
     
  14. MattRiv

    MattRiv Senior member

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    Picked up a pair of moderately worn vintage Alden x BB shell cordovan tassel loafers for just $40! They have been resoled with a half sole, but still have the original heels which have about half of their life left. I have no clue how to date Alden shoes, but I would imagine these are at the very least 20 years old.

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    They fit a tad long, but are the best fit that I've gotten in a while with a loafer. There is only one notable scuff on the heel, everything else came out with a damp cloth and a brush.
     
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  15. meister

    meister Senior member

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    Very nice shoes
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

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    Ordering shoes in 2016 is a breeze. We pick up the phone or place the order via email or directly purchase off the website. It wasn't always so easy and the catalogs shed a little light on ordering shoes in those bygone days. For example Allen Edmonds was proudly advertising their new answering machine in 1970. It offered the ability to leave a message on the weekend or in the evening when one wanted to save money by calling in the evening.

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    The answering machine was actually a tremendous breakthrough, as evidenced by the 1960 AE catalog. The back page of the catalog provided a handy Telegraphic Code sheet to be used when one wished to call Western Union and send AE a telegram to order those shoes.

    [​IMG]

    Each shoe in the catalog was assigned a code name. For example, the Mac Gregor in black was code named Hamburg and the Briar Scotch Grain was code named the Harlem. This is seen in example 1. Each length and width was also given a code name. My 11 EEE size was code named Gill. So I could tell Agnes from the Steno pool, "Send Allen Edmonds a telegram that says 'Harlem Gill Yellow'" and they would know to send my 11 EEE Mac Gregor shoes Parcel Post COD. This was the final days of such ordering as the code sheet was no longer seen in the 1964 catalog.
     
  17. davidVC

    davidVC Well-Known Member

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    The shoes were in decent shape when I got them. I used Venetian Shoe Cream. On the front, I also used the back of a spoon (with VSC as a lubricant), to ease some of the rolls.
     
  18. VegTan

    VegTan Senior member

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    English shoemakers, Taylor & Lord and Churchs, used French shell cordovan. Bostonian and Bates imported shell cordovan. I wonder if the latter, too, were French shell. (Bates used Horween's shell, too. See p.6.) Anyone know of the French tannery's name?

    ______________________________________________________________



    Thanks. Some catalogs are missing on AE's issuu. Is yours a 1960 spring & summer?



    Thanks. Here is Viking S1437 in Life Magazine, 1953.
    https://books.google.co.jp/books?id=HkgEAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA6&hl=en&pg=PA8#v=onepage&q&f=false
    [​IMG]
     
  19. smfdoc

    smfdoc Senior member

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    I didn't live through the era but looking at old ads but I believe the long wing style (blucher with medallian, broguing, double leather soles, storm welt and extended cap toe), became popular in the late 1950s. The first mainstream ad for one that I have seen was an 1951 Esquire ad for a Florsheim Viking S-1405.
    [/quote]

    Thanks. Here is Viking S1437 in Life Magazine, 1953.
    https://books.google.co.jp/books?id=HkgEAAAAMBAJ&lpg=PA6&hl=en&pg=PA8#v=onepage&q&f=false
    [​IMG][/quote]

    $17.95 was no small amount of money in 1953 as the average annual income then was $4000. The wife could buy a pretty nice dress for $5 and Florsheim was selling based on the savings in the long run. Some things don't change.:D

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2016
  20. mreams99

    mreams99 Senior member

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    Ohio
    Changing gears to a more casual shoe....
    I recently ran across these vintage chukkas. I was surprised to see that they were made in Spain for Sears. Does anyone know anything about that?
    I'm not a huge fan of the squarish toe. Other than that, I like the look of these.
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    That crepe sole looks like they were worn once, then put on a shelf for the next 40 years or so.
     

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