Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[davidVC]

Some pix of the Golden Harvest pair before I started working on them

Kinda dirty... (both tongues were pretty dry too)

Damage along the storm welt. This didn't improve much with conditioner or the Saphir neutral cream polish.

I think this is the other shoe - similar damage

A bit scruffy...

So we'll see...

Looks like the shoes have a clear coat on them. Probably acrylic. Looks like its flaking a bit. I have seen the same thing on other 1980s Florsheim pairs. Also some Allen Edmonds and Alden models too.

 

[M635Guy]

Wow - I just spent a good chunk of time cleaning the Golden Harvest pair.

In all my haste to get them conditioned, I probably made an already-bad situation worse - I noticed a lot of gunked up product in the pinking and brouguing on the shoes. I turned out to be one of those "pull the thread" kind of things...

This is likely going to wind up being a post in the blog I keep meaning to start, but in the meantime, some thoughts on "detailing" this part of shoes. Excuse the stream-of-consciousness style - trying to get it down before I forget


1 - First of all, do no harm. Whether it is product or pointy stuff, there are some things you can't undo, and others that cost you time and effort needlessly. Be gentle.
2 - Slow and steady. Hurrying tends to lead to a violation of #1
3 - Get close. I'm old (well, kinda old), so I have reading glasses. If you don't, a pair might be handy even if you don't need them to read. There are a lot of nooks and crannies on something like an old longwing, so getting good eyeballs on them is important.
4 - Work the angles. Look from several directions. You'll see what you missed. Until you don't.
5 - Have the tools. We're not talking about going to the moon, but a couple of decent welt brushes, a dental pick or something similar (mine is mechanics pick, which is just on the inside of acceptable)
6 - Be prepared to do it again. Some of this stuff has probably been there for 20 years or more. It might take a second (or third...) pass to get off whatever you're working on.
7 - Use moisture. One welt brush is just to apply hot water to the area you're working on. Don't use too much - I'd generally wet the brush, tap/shake it and then apply to the area, then dab with a towel to remove excess moisture. You'll get a feel for how much to leave that allows you more productivity. I'd scrub along the length of the area I was working on, then sorta brush outward to pull what I couldn't out. Then go in with the pick.
8 - Work on a small area. On top of reducing the amount of moisture that is just sitting waiting for you to get there, it keeps the pace steady, and you can focus on being thorough.
9 - Go the other direction. If the gunk doesn't seem to want to come off, work the other direction.
10 - Work with the shape. If it is a circle, work in a circle (not an oval or a line). If it has an edge or groove, use it. What you don't want to do is distort, reshape or create new shape.
11 - Clean your tools as you go. Just had a washcloth held in my other hand and wiped the pick, occasionally taking the time to really make sure it was cleared. Refreshed the brush pretty often.
12 - Take a break. If you're tired or frustrated, walk away and stretch for a minute.
13 - Have a system. Aside from avoiding doing the same work twice, it keeps misses to a minimum too. I worked right to left and front to back, following the lines of the shoes.
14 - It doesn't have to happen all at once. If you're more likely to get frustrated and rush, just do the 80% of the way in your first session and do a second one down the road.
15 - Finish with more product. It sounds weird, but you just put the leather through some stress, and uncovered areas that likely haven't been exposed for a long time. Give 'em some love with a welt brush and some conditioner (in this case I used Renovateur) along all the edges you just worked, and brush.

I'm sure there's more, but I'm kinda beat! So some pix:

Why I'm talking about this:

After a quick wet-brush session:

(better, but more there than it looks, mainly inferred by the lack of definition of the pinking)

Working the "V" carefully with the pick. I'd usually do a second "wet" pass after getting the big/obvious stuff.

Much better!

Except when you flip the shoe... more work

Fine.

Do you see the little faces? The ones that are saying "O help me!" Do you?

Using the pick, I'd swirl gently (both directions) and work the gunk out. I'd usually just put the pick firmly in the pinholes to make them visible again.

Better.

Another look at the area I'd just finished working

The tools

 

[M635Guy]

I'd note that all of that is a good reminder why applying creams (including cream polish) is a good thing to do with brushes instead of cloths. A brush will get in the nooks and crannies, but brushing also tends to pull excess product out, too... Burnishing after properly brushing-in is probably fine, too.

 

[Dbc0919]

Someone should snag these. Not mine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Florsheim-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

[suitforcourt]

Someone should snag these. Not mine.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Florsheim-Imperial-Mens-Vintage-Split-Toe-Brown-Leather-Rare-Double-V-Cleat-9-D/263401995275?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

Wow, only 2nd time I have seen double v-cleats! Yes, someone from our group grab them!

 

[aero25]

So, did you sleep on it?

I did. I got the first pair. Will post pics when they arrive. They were part of some retail therapy to either console me from not getting a promotion I will be interviewing for, or congratulating myself on getting the promotion. Time will tell.

 

[madhat]

I did. I got the first pair. Will post pics when they arrive. They were part of some retail therapy to either console me from not getting a promotion I will be interviewing for, or consoling myself from not getting the promotion. Time will tell.

Ah, retail therapy...look forward to seeing them regardless. Good luck on the interview.

 

[aero25]

Ah, retail therapy...look forward to seeing them regardless. Good luck on the interview.

Ha, whoops. Re-read my post after you quoted. That's what I get for getting interrupted 3 times while writing it and not proofing.

 

[mreams99]

Ha, whoops. Re-read my post after you quoted. That's what I get for getting interrupted 3 times while writing it and not proofing.

It does make more sense now.
Good luck!

 

[davidVC]

Wow - I just spent a good chunk of time cleaning the Golden Harvest pair.

In all my haste to get them conditioned, I probably made an already-bad situation worse - I noticed a lot of gunked up product in the pinking and brouguing on the shoes. I turned out to be one of those "pull the thread" kind of things...

This is likely going to wind up being a post in the blog I keep meaning to start, but in the meantime, some thoughts on "detailing" this part of shoes. Excuse the stream-of-consciousness style - trying to get it down before I forget


1 - First of all, do no harm. Whether it is product or pointy stuff, there are some things you can't undo, and others that cost you time and effort needlessly. Be gentle.
2 - Slow and steady. Hurrying tends to lead to a violation of #1
3 - Get close. I'm old (well, kinda old), so I have reading glasses. If you don't, a pair might be handy even if you don't need them to read. There are a lot of nooks and crannies on something like an old longwing, so getting good eyeballs on them is important.
4 - Work the angles. Look from several directions. You'll see what you missed. Until you don't.
5 - Have the tools. We're not talking about going to the moon, but a couple of decent welt brushes, a dental pick or something similar (mine is mechanics pick, which is just on the inside of acceptable)
6 - Be prepared to do it again. Some of this stuff has probably been there for 20 years or more. It might take a second (or third...) pass to get off whatever you're working on.
7 - Use moisture. One welt brush is just to apply hot water to the area you're working on. Don't use too much - I'd generally wet the brush, tap/shake it and then apply to the area, then dab with a towel to remove excess moisture. You'll get a feel for how much to leave that allows you more productivity. I'd scrub along the length of the area I was working on, then sorta brush outward to pull what I couldn't out. Then go in with the pick.
8 - Work on a small area. On top of reducing the amount of moisture that is just sitting waiting for you to get there, it keeps the pace steady, and you can focus on being thorough.
9 - Go the other direction. If the gunk doesn't seem to want to come off, work the other direction.
10 - Work with the shape. If it is a circle, work in a circle (not an oval or a line). If it has an edge or groove, use it. What you don't want to do is distort, reshape or create new shape.
11 - Clean your tools as you go. Just had a washcloth held in my other hand and wiped the pick, occasionally taking the time to really make sure it was cleared. Refreshed the brush pretty often.
12 - Take a break. If you're tired or frustrated, walk away and stretch for a minute.
13 - Have a system. Aside from avoiding doing the same work twice, it keeps misses to a minimum too. I worked right to left and front to back, following the lines of the shoes.
14 - It doesn't have to happen all at once. If you're more likely to get frustrated and rush, just do the 80% of the way in your first session and do a second one down the road.
15 - Finish with more product. It sounds weird, but you just put the leather through some stress, and uncovered areas that likely haven't been exposed for a long time. Give 'em some love with a welt brush and some conditioner (in this case I used Renovateur) along all the edges you just worked, and brush.

I'm sure there's more, but I'm kinda beat! So some pix:

Why I'm talking about this:

After a quick wet-brush session:

(better, but more there than it looks, mainly inferred by the lack of definition of the pinking)

Working the "V" carefully with the pick. I'd usually do a second "wet" pass after getting the big/obvious stuff.

Much better!

Except when you flip the shoe... more work

Fine.

Do you see the little faces? The ones that are saying "O help me!" Do you?

Using the pick, I'd swirl gently (both directions) and work the gunk out. I'd usually just put the pick firmly in the pinholes to make them visible again.

Better.

Another look at the area I'd just finished working

The tools

Excellent photo description of your process.

In the last photo, do you have a leather work area pad? Or is that the sofa? A leather work pad would be awesome. I need to buy/make one

 

[M635Guy]

Excellent photo description of your process.

In the last photo, do you have a leather work area pad? Or is that the sofa? A leather work pad would be awesome. I need to buy/make one

I'm embarrassed to say I own a whole cow hide. I wanted a piece of leather to polish shoes on - something I could put in my lap and not worry about product/etc. getting on it, and went on eBay looking for scraps. Some company was liquidating a business and had several hides. The description was a bit strange, so and I wound up with a whole hide for $45 delivered. I've cut a big lap piece, done a few other things but still have a giant piece left I use as a background when I take shoe pictures.

In my defense, it was literally less than ten bucks more delivered than the much-smaller piece...

 

[madhat]

I'm embarrassed to say I own a whole cow hide. I wanted a piece of leather to polish shoes on - something I could put in my lap and not worry about product/etc. getting on it, and went on eBay looking for scraps. Some company was liquidating a business and had several hides. The description was a bit strange, and I won't up with a whole hide for $45. I've cut a big lap piece, done a few other things but still have a giant piece left I use as a background when I take shoe pictures.

In my defense, it was literally less than ten bucks more delivered than the much-smaller piece...

haha. You just become that much cooler for this!

Edit: living in Amarillo you'd think I'd be using spare cow hides as shop rags or something...

 

[M635Guy]

haha. You just become that much cooler for this

I found the pix from when I got it

My shoe care...whatever...

 

[ccpl14]

I found the pix from when I got it

My shoe care...whatever...

This is truly great. I wouldn't have expected any less from someone on this forum.

Also, after your post this morning, I feel like I need to give all of my shoes the side-eye.

And buy a pick.

 

[instigateur]

Someone called out us old guys for only wearing wingtips. After some introspection and inventory I decided I could use another brogued cap toe. The AE Strands were not on sale, so off to ebay. I found these Freemans cheap.

Got them in and gave them a good brushing, sanitized them, and several coats of bick4. The only issue is some minor scuffs on the left toe.

Maiden voyage today.