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Nobleprofessor

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It was very inconsistent in the 70’s. Some examples were absolutely amazing, some were really mediocre (my two favorite pair of AE’s are both produced in the 70’s). They had a real problem with uneven stitching on the uppers (where the pattern would just be inconsistently executed) and incomplete brogue punches (nearly every hanging chad brogue punch I’ve seen has been on a 70’s pair), requiring me to use a pin to try and pick out the incomplete punch-out. The leather was also inconstant during the late 60’s and 70’s - some were brilliant, others were meh.

In contrast, the 80’s through early 90’s stuff is consistently amazing. Even the CG stuff is incredibly good (meaning it’s “corrected” for effect, not because it’s scarred, low-quality leather). Once the PU finish starts looking like crap, you can literally strip them, refinish them and you get a whole second life out of them.

As for the conditioning PSA, that doesn’t just apply to AE’s. A lot of brands have that problem (because they all source from the same small group of tanneries).
I may have gotten my dates wrong. These are the MacGregor with 7 eyelets.
If recollection serves, I think these are whiskey (or ravello?) although as @wasmisterfu accurately noted @smfdoc has an extraordinary collection so it's entirely possible he has these in multiple colors.
Pretty dark if they are whiskey. But, whatever they are called, they are drool worthy!
 

stook1

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I may have gotten my dates wrong. These are the MacGregor with 7 eyelets.


Pretty dark if they are whiskey. But, whatever they are called, they are drool worthy!
Actually you are right and they also look to be new. I am going with Ravello. :) Hopefully @smfdoc will tell us the details. There have been some Ravello shoes delivered lately so....
 

Nobleprofessor

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And now for something completely different. Depending on your definition of vintage these may fit or be slightly out of the range.

Alden 73393. Suede Ranger Moc in snuff suede. I am slowly becoming a real fan of Alden suede. These look a little like something my Dad would wear when he was a college professor, but I like the fact that they are a little more casual.

46204756-2E3D-4F92-9E79-CD1C9CFA1B63.jpeg
7616B28C-8C34-4315-8856-D1988DB4CC23.jpeg
11275D91-1EE2-444F-ADE1-362A37EA6E86.jpeg
 

wasmisterfu

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I may have gotten my dates wrong. These are the MacGregor with 7 eyelets.
Both my MacGregor’s are from the 70’s and are examples of the “amazing” category of 70’s output. The MacGregor is my favorite oxford wingtip of all time. It’s just an amazing looking shoe.

So let’s look at Appreciation of them:

I think these are yours:

My nice pair:

Some righteous Japanese dude’s pair:

A NOS pair on eBay that wasn’t my size:

My beater pair with bazillions of miles and many resoles on them (while risking my life eating airport sushi):
 

Nobleprofessor

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Both my MacGregor’s are from the 70’s and are examples of the “amazing” category of 70’s output. The MacGregor is my favorite oxford wingtip of all time. It’s just an amazing looking shoe.

So let’s look at Appreciation of them:

I think these are yours:

My nice pair:

Some righteous Japanese dude’s pair:

A NOS pair on eBay that wasn’t my size:

My beater pair with bazillions of miles and many resoles on them (while risking my life eating airport sushi):
those aren’t mine. Here they are:

3D4ED090-74F6-4472-880A-24865919B2BE.jpeg
7226BFC7-58FC-4CBD-A15E-7A727C2996E4.jpeg


also Alden sale alert!

Sky Valet is having 40% sale on Alden! INCLUDING Shell.
 

wasmisterfu

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smfdoc

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holy smokes! Is it the lighting? Or are those really fantastic looking cigar Shell?
I’m pretty sure it ain’t the lighting. Contemporary or vintage, some of the best shoes you’ll see anywhere on SF belong to @smfdoc .
If recollection serves, I think these are whiskey (or ravello?) although as @wasmisterfu accurately noted @smfdoc has an extraordinary collection so it's entirely possible he has these in multiple colors.
Actually you are right and they also look to be new. I am going with Ravello. :) Hopefully @smfdoc will tell us the details. There have been some Ravello shoes delivered lately so....
Thanks. Yes, they are newish as I have only worn them a few times. They are Ravello. Normally, I expect ravello to have more red tones, but this newer batch is the same color as my bourbon colored shoes from AE. Side by side they are identical. But shell is variable and can change from batch to batch. The side by side image on the floor is the Ravello on foot, and the bourbon AE to the right. The second picture is the Ravello on the right of the image and whiskey on the left side of the screen.

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Nobleprofessor

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Thanks. Yes, they are newish as I have only worn them a few times. They are Ravello. Normally, I expect ravello to have more red tones, but this newer batch is the same color as my bourbon colored shoes from AE. Side by side they are identical. But shell is variable and can change from batch to batch. The side by side image on the floor is the Ravello on foot, and the bourbon AE to the right. The second picture is the Ravello on the right of the image and whiskey on the left side of the screen.

View attachment 1609946
View attachment 1609947
So, you have at least four pair of rare Shell that ranges from whiskey to bourbon to ravello. Damn! That is a great collection! (And I know it just a sample!)
 

wasmisterfu

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Coming back here is like a gambling addict going to Vegas. I blame you guys for enabling me to do this:


27 years they’ve sat in a box, unworn. AE Olympiad’s 8853 (basically a special edition Broadstreet designed for the US Team’s ceremonial uniforms for 1992 Summer Olympic Games) Oak Aniline Calf / White Nubuck.

I’m not even attempting to smuggle these past Spousel Customs, I’m simply declaring these outright.
 

Nobleprofessor

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Coming back here is like a gambling addict going to Vegas. I blame you guys for enabling me to do this:


27 years they’ve sat in a box, unworn. AE Olympiad’s 8853 (basically a special edition Broadstreet designed for the US Team’s ceremonial uniforms for 1992 Summer Olympic Games) Oak Aniline Calf / White Nubuck.

I’m not even attempting to smuggle these past Spousel Customs, I’m simply declaring these outright.
Those are spectacular! It would UnAmerican for Spousal Customs to be upset with those!
Amazing!
 

suitforcourt

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Hanover LB Sheppards. I find the toe box to be tighter than Florsheim.

Happy Friday, shoe pals.

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20210514_170110.jpg
 

friendlygoz

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Yeah, I dunno what was up with the Warwick, but that model had a history of problems. Most examples you see today look like absolute hell. I actually think the pattern had issues with stress-points and pulling, due to the last not being optimized for a monk-strap design.

It’s too bad, as it’s a nice looking shoe when new.
Amen. I love the look and the fit, but the leather is dookie.
 

wasmisterfu

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Amen. I love the look and the fit, but the leather is dookie.
Yeah, I don’t get it, because they do all look like crap. Yet, the same year they made your cracking Warwick’s, they managed to slap this webgem together from some of the most supple leather they’ve used since the early 90’s:
Zoom in; look at the creasing (bend), even the outsole stitching and edge finishing are top notch. That was the problem with the Paul Grangaard era, massively, hugely inconsistent quality (he was simply pushing to much product through that factory as part of the growth strategy to unload that company).

I hate to say it, because they killed off a ton of models and programs and I don’t like almost all of the new stuff, but the post Caleres AE’s I’ve bought (from the traditional lineup, e.g. not freakin sneakers and crap) have been far more consistently executed. The most recent pair being downright excellent - I might photograph them next week for the AE thread, as I’m so impressed with them.
 

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