stook1
Master Builder
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I've had a very satisfying run of vintage pickups lately, which I am way overdue to report on. But I wanted to mention three specifically that I thought would be interesting. Unfortunately, I am going to use some listing pics for these since it's dark out, I feel like posting about this right now, and I really cant give shoe work my all at the present time since I am still rehabbing my arm and it's not possible for me to do any brushing. Lots of excuses, I know.
First, in the course of the last month, I snagged two pairs of wingtip balmorals. The below Aldens (for brooks bros), which are not-quite-vintage but not new (honestly not sure how old these are - perhaps one of you has some idea). They are on the m75 last, which is not a very well known Alden last. It's similar to the plaza last but with a little more room at the ball and instep. These shoes have minimal wear so it's a bit disappointing that the eyelet paint has started chipping in a few spots - not quite sure what I am going to do about that yet. This seems to be a common issue, although it has not been a problem on my color 8 boots that I bought new. The boots have seen quite a bit more wear than these wingtips so perhaps it is a function of age more than wear. Not sure. One unique thing about these shoes is that there isnt a seam on the rear of the heel -- don't see that everyday.
The second pair that I bought I just received today. These are J&M Crown Aristocraft. Brown instead of color 8 shell. They are a half size bigger than the Alden's but I don't find them to fit that big, which is unexpected. I took a gamble on these and, to be honest with you, I impulse bought them because they were a really good deal (I'm a sucker for a good deal, what can I say). I briefly had another pair of these at one point but the size was illegible and the fit seemed a bit off to me. These seem to be better based upon a momentary fitment without laces. They weren't especially dry but I gave them a treatment of neatsfoot oil and will put them through my normal cleanup routine.
So a couple of quick comments on these two shoes. First, they are a LOT more similar than I realized when I bought them. In fact, I may end up reselling one of them down the line once I decide which pair I prefer. Even the last shape seems relatively similar - both are a soft square more or less like the alden plaza last. The construction on both pairs is, quite honestly, very good. I have not measured/counted but I am reasonably sure the stitch density is higher on the J&Ms. The J&M shoes, I'd honestly say, rival my Florsheims in terms of construction. It's possible that the pinking on my florsheims is a little cleaner but I'd have to say it's close. It's a matter of taste but the J&M medallion is not quite as nice as either the florsheim or the aldens pictured above. I'd say the lining is a bit nicer on both my florsheims and aldens, which isn't to say that there is any issue with the J&Ms.
Finally, I wanted to report that I have somehow managed to cycle through 4 pairs of 93602s in the last 6 months. I actually thought I was done after finding my last pair. They represented a significant upgrade from my previous pair and, truth be told, the really are a great pair. However, it kills me every time one of you guys posts a pair with that really gorgeous contrasty grain. Well'p, I finally snagged a pair of 97625s with just the look I have been after! I should have these soon.
First, in the course of the last month, I snagged two pairs of wingtip balmorals. The below Aldens (for brooks bros), which are not-quite-vintage but not new (honestly not sure how old these are - perhaps one of you has some idea). They are on the m75 last, which is not a very well known Alden last. It's similar to the plaza last but with a little more room at the ball and instep. These shoes have minimal wear so it's a bit disappointing that the eyelet paint has started chipping in a few spots - not quite sure what I am going to do about that yet. This seems to be a common issue, although it has not been a problem on my color 8 boots that I bought new. The boots have seen quite a bit more wear than these wingtips so perhaps it is a function of age more than wear. Not sure. One unique thing about these shoes is that there isnt a seam on the rear of the heel -- don't see that everyday.
The second pair that I bought I just received today. These are J&M Crown Aristocraft. Brown instead of color 8 shell. They are a half size bigger than the Alden's but I don't find them to fit that big, which is unexpected. I took a gamble on these and, to be honest with you, I impulse bought them because they were a really good deal (I'm a sucker for a good deal, what can I say). I briefly had another pair of these at one point but the size was illegible and the fit seemed a bit off to me. These seem to be better based upon a momentary fitment without laces. They weren't especially dry but I gave them a treatment of neatsfoot oil and will put them through my normal cleanup routine.
So a couple of quick comments on these two shoes. First, they are a LOT more similar than I realized when I bought them. In fact, I may end up reselling one of them down the line once I decide which pair I prefer. Even the last shape seems relatively similar - both are a soft square more or less like the alden plaza last. The construction on both pairs is, quite honestly, very good. I have not measured/counted but I am reasonably sure the stitch density is higher on the J&Ms. The J&M shoes, I'd honestly say, rival my Florsheims in terms of construction. It's possible that the pinking on my florsheims is a little cleaner but I'd have to say it's close. It's a matter of taste but the J&M medallion is not quite as nice as either the florsheim or the aldens pictured above. I'd say the lining is a bit nicer on both my florsheims and aldens, which isn't to say that there is any issue with the J&Ms.
Finally, I wanted to report that I have somehow managed to cycle through 4 pairs of 93602s in the last 6 months. I actually thought I was done after finding my last pair. They represented a significant upgrade from my previous pair and, truth be told, the really are a great pair. However, it kills me every time one of you guys posts a pair with that really gorgeous contrasty grain. Well'p, I finally snagged a pair of 97625s with just the look I have been after! I should have these soon.