Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[wasmisterfu]

Is there anything I can do for this hairline crack over the forefoot? View attachment 1425445

That’s an age and stress crack. My beater MacGregor’s have that going on in the extreme. To halt further degrading of the leather, give them a thorough cleaning and conditioning. Make sure you maintain a good degree of conditioning (e.g. don’t put them in a closet for six months and then wear them without conditioning at least 24 hours prior). Do this and you’ll slow the progression to almost zero; I’ve seen no worsening of the cracks on my beater MacGregor’s, even after heavy wear.

Mid-2018:

Late 2019:

Lighting and angle differences aside (that and the shoe needing cleaning, due to heavy use) in the late 2019 photo, there really hasn’t been any change in the condition of the shoe. I attribute this to keeping the leather well conditioned, otherwise I’m pretty sure the leather would degrade further, and probably pretty rapidly at that.

As for fixing the cracking with a filler product, I’m not sure how well that will work in such a high-flex, high stress area of the shoe. Personally, I wouldn’t mess with it, as I’d be concerned that once the filler fails, it’s likely to worsen the crack considerably. I’d just accept that it’s part of the shoe and try to minimize its getting worse.

 

[Joe Wohkittel]

I hope I’m not the bearer of bad news on this, but that insole branding is from the 2010’s (~2010 - 2015).

Agreed. The insoles changed to this dingy brown color ~2010.

 

[Joe Wohkittel]

Is there anything I can do for this hairline crack over the forefoot? View attachment 1425445

The only effective technique I've found for fixing shallow cracks is surface sanding. Generally speaking, it takes more time and effort than its worth. It's easy enough to get rid of the crack, but very difficult to blend the sanded area so that the crack isn't simply replaced with a smooth but marred grain pattern (which is also a problem with fillers). It really needs to have a spray-on finish applied afterwards. Alternatively, you can sand the whole piece of leather that has a crack in it (or the whole shoe) so the leather texture is even. I've had mixed results with the technique and given the time investment, next time I'll pay a professional to do it.

 

[Joe Wohkittel]

I'm pretty sure "beacon" is the last, not the brand. Regardless, they seem like a nice lwb on an attractive last. I do not know the seller.

Vtg 40s 50s Beacon Union Made Longwing Leather Dress Shoes Sz 10 Wing Tip Brown | eBay

Great style. Very nice pre owned shape, see pics. I think the size is 10, look like it compared to a pair of size 10's that I own. go by following for bet fit: 12 1/4" long an 4 1/4" wide on outside.

www.ebay.com

 

[meister]

Bontoni double monks I got in a trade with a friend from the thrift thread, along with an Isaia summer weight suit, for some players to be named later. These shoes were hand crafted for someone else but they fit me perfectly. They’re incredibly well made.
View attachment 1425076 View attachment 1425077 View attachment 1425078 View attachment 1425079 View attachment 1425080

I've got three pairs so I agree.

 

[suitforcourt]

Canadian friends, these are already up in Vancouver BC so you'll only have to worry about spousal customs! View attachment 1425529

The seller jacked the price to 99.99 USD. That aside, I need 3e. Damn.

Otherwise I would hit the BIN so fast I would break my finger and the screen.

 

[jpm1]

I hope I’m not the bearer of bad news on this, but that insole branding is from the 2010’s (~2010 - 2015).

You’re right of course. Completely misread that. The angle of the picture threw me off.

 

[Jiqea]

The seller jacked the price to 99.99 USD. That aside, I need 3e. Damn.

Otherwise I would hit the BIN so fast I would break my finger and the screen.

These are an interesting pair. They are labelled as McHales, but have the doubled and stitched sock-liner that I have only seen on the top-line John McHale shoes, McHale made Florsheim Imperials and other top end private label shoes made by McHale. The doubled and stiched sock-liner as a mark of John McHale's highest quality offerings extends as far back as 1944 with the introduction of the John McHale signature shoe. The Cat's Paw heels were a factory option and may be original as I have seen them on several pairs of NOS John McHales from this era (1970's).

 

[stook1]

I hope I’m not the bearer of bad news on this, but that insole branding is from the 2010’s (~2010 - 2015).

Thanks, all good. Once I got the model # I realized that they were newer and passed on them (although mainly because of size).

 

[wasmisterfu]

You’re right of course. Completely misread that. The angle of the picture threw me off.

So their execution was sometimes hit or miss during that time, but some of the coolest stuff AE ever made was from that period (major vintage violations):

 

[jpm1]

So their execution was sometimes hit or miss during that time, but some of the coolest stuff AE ever made was from that period (major vintage violations):

Agreed. The web gem program was phenomenal too.

 

[smfdoc]

I finished my watch band project and I have several thoughts in case anyone is tempted to make one of their own. First, most of the shell used in this pair was quite thick. That is wonderful except when one would normally try to fold over pieces for stitching. They were difficult to skive (shave thin with a sharp blade) so I elected to use the matching thin calf used in the shoe liner for those purposes at the buckle and each lug attachment. Second, the brogue is usually not sewn on the upper in an absolutely straight line. This can cause some issues when trying to lay it out straight on one side of the band. The medallion was also a little misaligned which can cause alignment issues when trying to lay everything out straight. Spoilered final pictures, but at least they were from vintage shoes.

Spoiler: Final band pictures

 

[meister]

These are an interesting pair. They are labelled as McHales, but have the doubled and stitched sock-liner that I have only seen on the top-line John McHale shoes, McHale made Florsheim Imperials and other top end private label shoes made by McHale. The doubled and stiched sock-liner as a mark of John McHale's highest quality offerings extends as far back as 1944 with the introduction of the John McHale signature shoe. The Cat's Paw heels were a factory option and may be original as I have seen them on several pairs of NOS John McHales from this era (1970's).

View attachment 1425591

Wow!

 

[suitforcourt]

Canadian friends, these are already up in Vancouver BC so you'll only have to worry about spousal customs! View attachment 1425529

Damn you. Damn you, sir.

I decided to gamble on this pair. Shipping from within Canada means no taxes or tariffs.

If they don't fit, I am confident I can recover my costs. Made lowball offer that was accepted.

 

[CWOyaji]

Damn you. Damn you, sir.

I decided to gamble on this pair. Shipping from within Canada means no taxes or tariffs.

If they don't fit, I am confident I can recover my costs. Made lowball offer that was accepted.