• Welcome to the Styleforum Approved contest! This is a contest where everyone wins: in fact, every participant will get a (highly coveted) “Styleforum approved” bracelet to flaunt to your oblivious friends. The only thing you have to do is show appreciation for a member of the forum or an affiliate vendor.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Nealjpage

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2020
Messages
632
Reaction score
1,578
If their your size, and the 65 last works for you, I’d definitely buy those. Photos are super clear, but I see no seconds mark, and the interiors look clear with minimal wear.
How does the 65 last compare to the 25 (Fairfax) last? I wear an 8.5 D in the Fairfax.
 

jpm1

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
877
Reaction score
4,614
For reference, the 4 last that the Polo (I pictured above) was built on was the 674 “Ethan” last. Based my pair of Ritz pumps, the later 234 was, IMHO, quite a bit more tapered in the toe. The 234 was a more elegant last than the 674. But the 674 is not bad looking “in person” but photographs poorly; it is, nevertheless, one of those “seventies” lasts, but a more restrained one, which is why it survived into the early 90’s.

AE had a number of really, really square-toed lasts in the 70’s, like the “London” 6, “Belgium” 5 and “Windsor” 9. The resulting pilgrim shoes they built on those lasts are some of the most questionably styled shoes they ever churned out. We’re talking some real disco era disasters:


I believe most of those lasts were lost in the Belgium, WI factory fire in 1984. I love looking at the catalogs from the 70s. They made some very cool stuff back then.
 

madhat

Stylish Dinosaur
Joined
Jan 17, 2017
Messages
12,551
Reaction score
39,680
Vintage violation but vintage homage:

Allen Edmonds white McNeil with JR soles. Looks like calf with JR soles with Horween Cordovan stamp. Or could it really be unicorn white shell.

@Oshare for inspiration

@wasmisterfu @jpm1 @smfdoc for comments. Looks like AE allowed for their JR soles on custom non-shell shoes back then.

View attachment 1417360

View attachment 1417372

View attachment 1417361
What's the model info on the inside? A lot of MTOs started with a 0.

Also a brief period last year...
20191026_142028.jpg
 

Hotel Cali

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 21, 2016
Messages
548
Reaction score
2,360

jpm1

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
877
Reaction score
4,614
Vintage violation but vintage homage:

Allen Edmonds white McNeil with JR soles. Looks like calf with JR soles with Horween Cordovan stamp. Or could it really be unicorn white shell.

@Oshare for inspiration

@wasmisterfu @jpm1 @smfdoc for comments. Looks like AE allowed for their JR soles on custom non-shell shoes back then.

View attachment 1417360

View attachment 1417372

View attachment 1417361
These are likely fairly recent. 2012/13 era. It was about that time that AE added the Horween stamp to the JR soles.
 

wasmisterfu

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 11, 2018
Messages
4,379
Reaction score
12,583
I believe most of those lasts were lost in the Belgium, WI factory fire in 1984. I love looking at the catalogs from the 70s. They made some very cool stuff back then.
It’s just my opinion, but I think this is kind of a company fostered myth (AE folks love to say things got burned up in the factory fire). Lasts (made by last makers) have to be replaced from time to time due to wear and tear. This is why it didn’t take long for AE to restart production: they just had new copies of the production lasts created. Before recrafting came in during the mid 80’s, AE most likely discarded old discontinued lasts (the MacGregor 0 last, after 1978, disappeared from use completely, for example).

Anyway, my contention is that they didn’t really lose old lasts in the fire, because they weren’t keeping lasts they weren’t using. I recall reading that Stollenwerk was already looking at building a second new facility, even before the fire, because of capacity problems (they had space and production capacity issues at the Belgium plant). Plus they never really brought back old lasts before the fire, which occurred before recrafting was introduced. IMHO, they only started storing old lasts once recrafting became a thing. However, it just sounds romantic to say “we lost the old lasts in a fire”, versus “yeah, we weren’t going to use them again, so we chucked them out”.

Just my opinion, though based on at least some modicum of research.
 

jpm1

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2015
Messages
877
Reaction score
4,614
It’s just my opinion, but I think this is kind of a company fostered myth (AE folks love to say things got burned up in the factory fire). Lasts (made by last makers) have to be replaced from time to time due to wear and tear. This is why it didn’t take long for AE to restart production: they just had new copies of the production lasts created. Before recrafting came in during the mid 80’s, AE most likely discarded old discontinued lasts (the MacGregor 0 last, after 1978, disappeared from use completely, for example).

Anyway, my contention is that they didn’t really lose old lasts in the fire, because they weren’t keeping lasts they weren’t using. I recall reading that Stollenwerk was already looking at building a second new facility, even before the fire, because of capacity problems (they had space and production capacity issues at the Belgium plant). Plus they never really brought back old lasts before the fire, which occurred before recrafting was introduced. IMHO, they only started storing old lasts once recrafting became a thing. However, it just sounds romantic to say “we lost the old lasts in a fire”, versus “yeah, we weren’t going to use them again, so we chucked them out”.

Just my opinion, though based on at least some modicum of research.
Entirely possible for sure.
 

wasmisterfu

Distinguished Member
Joined
May 11, 2018
Messages
4,379
Reaction score
12,583
These are likely fairly recent. 2012/13 era. It was about that time that AE added the Horween stamp to the JR soles.
Yeah, I agree on when they were made. However, they are freaking great and I wouldn’t hesitate to buy them. Probably the closest you’ll get to those next-level Florsheim white Kenmoor unicorns we were ogling a few days ago.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

Face Masks: Pick Your Favorite (Choose 2)

  • Disposable surgical mask

  • White cotton mask

  • Linen-lined mask

  • "Sartorial" mask made of suiting fabric

  • Patterned mask (checks, stripes, fun print, etc.)

  • Solid color silk mask

  • "Sartorial" mask made of tie fabric

  • Sports mask made of synthetic fabric

  • Denim mask

  • Face shield


Results are only viewable after voting.

Related Threads

Forum statistics

Threads
442,432
Messages
9,554,581
Members
199,909
Latest member
sumurabneha
Top