Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[Nobleprofessor]

I say nay. I'm fully aware that I've gone full shoe snob by using only Saphir products on my shoes, with the exception of Lexol and Venetian Shoe Cream for conditioning uppers and Leather Honey for conditioning soles, but I just think there's better products out there that aren't as hard to remove after use, doesn't darken the leather, and is milder. My go-to is Saphir Renovateur, and if that doesn't get the job done, Saphir Renomat will.

In my experience if Renomat won’t get the job done, the next step will have to be extreme like acetone.

 

[Nealjpage]

I don’t want to start a whole war over this. But, I am wondering about saddle soap.

I remember years ago before I really had an appreciation for quality shoes, I wore what many people still wear — department store shoes. Most were CG. Most were intended to last a few years and then they were replaced. I did have some quality shoes, but I wasn’t really aware of the difference.

I used to frequent a car wash that also had a shoe shine stand. I would come in with my Cole Haan or JM or (don’t judge me) Kenneth Cole and the shoe shine guy would always start with saddle soap. It would clean the funk off. Of course most were CG, so it wasn’t going to hurt them.

then, I learned that saddle soap should not be used on quality leather as it will darken and dry out the leather. I thought this was a practically universal belief. I still kept it around to clean hiking boots or other leather that was dirty and I always followed that up with some sort of conditioner/moisturizer.

BUT, I was watching an AE video and they specifically used saddle soap and recommended it on a pair of Park Avenue or Fifth Avenue. So, now I’m confused.

Saddle Soap? Yea or Nay?

I always start with saddle soap. I'm amazed at the crud that comes off. I understand most saddle soaps contain glycerin, which is good for moisturizing leather. I'm also not too worried about drying it out, since I always follow with a heavy coat of Bick 4.

 

[eTrojan]

I don’t want to start a whole war over this. But, I am wondering about saddle soap.

I remember years ago before I really had an appreciation for quality shoes, I wore what many people still wear — department store shoes. Most were CG. Most were intended to last a few years and then they were replaced. I did have some quality shoes, but I wasn’t really aware of the difference.

I used to frequent a car wash that also had a shoe shine stand. I would come in with my Cole Haan or JM or (don’t judge me) Kenneth Cole and the shoe shine guy would always start with saddle soap. It would clean the funk off. Of course most were CG, so it wasn’t going to hurt them.

then, I learned that saddle soap should not be used on quality leather as it will darken and dry out the leather. I thought this was a practically universal belief. I still kept it around to clean hiking boots or other leather that was dirty and I always followed that up with some sort of conditioner/moisturizer.

BUT, I was watching an AE video and they specifically used saddle soap and recommended it on a pair of Park Avenue or Fifth Avenue. So, now I’m confused.

Saddle Soap? Yea or Nay?

+1 on saddle soap.

For a new-to-me pair of vintage shoes, I find it's a useful first step in removing general crud. I've had a couple pairs that I had to do 3 or 4 rounds of saddle soap to get all of the excess polish off. I have yet to find a pair of shoes that were permanently darkened by the saddle soap cleaning process. Mostly they're dark until they dry, just like any water-based treatment of calfskin.

Follow that with one round of Lexol NF (neatsfoot oil) and as many coats of Bick 4 that they'll absorb, and it's good to go.

(I still haven't gotten into the habit of regularly applying edge dressing. Some day.)

 

[Nealjpage]

I can, with thick socks.

I am exactly a 13B. No stretching or thick socks required!

I can. What do you have?

There's a pair of NOS Corfam (du Pont fake leather) longwings at my local Goodwill. Priced at $30, but have been on the shelf for a few weeks so they will go to $15 soon. I told @happypebble that I would keep an eye on them as he was looking for a pair, and would grab them for cost plus shipping. Anyone else interested if he decides they're not his cuppa tea?

 

[actionjbone]

All-day meeting at big-name agency.

Comfort and style: vintage J&M Aristocraft longwing tassel loafers.

 

[Nealjpage]

(I still haven't gotten into the habit of regularly applying edge dressing. Some day.)

Me either. In fact, I can't even find it locally and I'm too lazy to search Amazon for it. Plus I hate waiting for shipments. If I want something, I want it now, dammit.

 

[friendlygoz]

AE Boulevards from 1985 today. The leather on these is like butter...

 

[Nobleprofessor]

These aren’t vintage technically. However, I’m pretty sure you will share my excitement when I open this treat I picked up at lunch!

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I got new shoe laces! They are waxed cotton and are on sale for $3!

But, the real excitement is further in the bag!

Spoiler: If you only like vintage, don’t look here

It was almost impossible for me to pass up NEW Shell Cordovan for under $400. I can rationalize it even more by pointing out that I returned a pair that I bought for $229. So, these cost less than $170 (difference).

 

[Nealjpage]

A few things make me think not shell. 1. It’s Bostonian. While the company did have some shell Cordovan, it is pretty rare. 2. The only Shell Bostonians I have seen said it on the sole. 3. I agree it looks like fine hairline creases. But, sometimes the whiteish bloom in the shell rolls does sometimes look like cloudy creasing.

I will say these look old enough that they might be the decent variety of Bostonian. For the price, they might be worth it just for good vintage calf Saddles.

Thanks, Prof. I've got a pair up for auction that ends tomorrow; once those sell and if these Bostonians are still available after that, I'll make an offer.

 

[Nealjpage]

Hey @mormonopoly you seem to know about antique shoes. These look antique to me. Worth a gamble?

Cole Haan Madison Executive Men US 8 D/EU 41 Wingtip Leather Two-Toned Mahogany | eBay

Cole Haan Wingtip Oxfords. Unique pair of wingtip shoes! Two-toned mahogany & dark brown color. Smooth mahogany leather parts. Leather material. Tiny pattern on brown leather parts.

rover.ebay.com

 

[Jiqea]

Today I have answered the age old question of how you accessorise your Dack's camel leather shoes. You wear your Dacks camel leather 150th Anniversary belt of course!!!! It is marked camel grain on the back, but it sure matches the shoes nicely.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Hey @mormonopoly you seem to know about antique shoes. These look antique to me. Worth a gamble?

Cole Haan Madison Executive Men US 8 D/EU 41 Wingtip Leather Two-Toned Mahogany | eBay

Cole Haan Wingtip Oxfords. Unique pair of wingtip shoes! Two-toned mahogany & dark brown color. Smooth mahogany leather parts. Leather material. Tiny pattern on brown leather parts.

rover.ebay.com

You didn’t ask anyone else. But, those are definitely old. I have no idea why the seller includes “Cole Haan” I would think they were Madison Square. They are also not Wingtips in my opinion. I’m not sure what I would call them. Maybe Quarter Brogue Cap Toe Saddle Oxfords? Man that’s an awkward name.
In summary they are: Quite old, quite interesting, and need a lot of work

 

[mormonopoly]

Hey @mormonopoly you seem to know about antique shoes. These look antique to me. Worth a gamble?

Cole Haan Madison Executive Men US 8 D/EU 41 Wingtip Leather Two-Toned Mahogany | eBay

Cole Haan Wingtip Oxfords. Unique pair of wingtip shoes! Two-toned mahogany & dark brown color. Smooth mahogany leather parts. Leather material. Tiny pattern on brown leather parts.

rover.ebay.com

With that style and construction, they’re old but not super old. I’d put them around 1970.

 

[Nealjpage]

You didn’t ask anyone else. But, those are definitely old. I have no idea why the seller includes “Cole Haan” I would think they were Madison Square. They are also not Wingtips in my opinion. I’m not sure what I would call them. Maybe Quarter Brogue Cap Toe Saddle Oxfords? Man that’s an awkward name.
In summary they are: Quite old, quite interesting, and need a lot of work

With that style and construction, they’re old but not super old. I’d put them around 1970.

Thanks gentlemen!