Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[kilowatts]

It may be easier for a camel to go through the eye of a needle than for someone who is rich to enter the kingdom of God, but I am going to try to sneak in being comfortably middle class and wearing these NOS Dacks Camel leather brogues.

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Hi Guys:

Dack's hit the spot again!

kilowatts

 

[Thomas Crown]

Gents, a bit of shoe Appreciation for you tonight. I bought a pair of mystery shell PTB (Florsheim of course) from @davidVC 's watch list. The heels were shot so I sent them to Brian Gavigan in Buffalo NY to recraft. Here are some pics of the nearly completed project, and the original condition of the shoes:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/buffalo-cobbler-brian-gavigan-sole-man.642804/#post-9696943

I decided to change things up with a purple welt. Initially, Brian suggested white welt and a tan/light brown sole edge like @smfdoc 92604s. I decided against it. I wear these with suits, so the tan edge would make it too casual, relegating them to weekend and non-court days, which are few and far between.

Originally, I asked for JR soles and a topy. Brian advised against JR if I'm going to put on topy.

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That purple welt stitch looks great—I toyed with sole replacement/contrasting welt with my “secret shell “ Leeds(also from David’s list) but settled on heel replacement. I’m always visualizing the contrast welt and Cordovan edge ever since @smfdoc posted his Kenmoors

 

[friendlygoz]

Gents, a bit of shoe Appreciation for you tonight. I bought a pair of mystery shell PTB (Florsheim of course) from @davidVC 's watch list. The heels were shot so I sent them to Brian Gavigan in Buffalo NY to recraft. Here are some pics of the nearly completed project, and the original condition of the shoes:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/buffalo-cobbler-brian-gavigan-sole-man.642804/#post-9696943

I decided to change things up with a purple welt. Initially, Brian suggested white welt and a tan/light brown sole edge like @smfdoc 92604s. I decided against it. I wear these with suits, so the tan edge would make it too casual, relegating them to weekend and non-court days, which are few and far between.

Originally, I asked for JR soles and a topy. Brian advised against JR if I'm going to put on topy.

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Those look great. I confess that I don’t understand the fuss about JR heels and soles. Is there something special about them? I put Topys on my shoes and my cobbler install Vibram rubber soles, which are super comfy and durable.

 

[Jiqea]

Those look great. I confess that I don’t understand the fuss about JR heels and soles. Is there something special about them? I put Topys on my shoes and my cobbler install Vibram rubber soles, which are super comfy and durable.

Its funny, but I came to shoes from a guitar and watch collecting background, where originality is everything. I just cant bring myself to alter a shoe, even if it could save my life. I have issues.....

 

[suitforcourt]

Those look great. I confess that I don’t understand the fuss about JR heels and soles. Is there something special about them? I put Topys on my shoes and my cobbler install Vibram rubber soles, which are super comfy and durable.

From what I’ve read, JR soles are superior to others because of the tanning process and materials used to produce them. Kirby Allison has a video on his visit to the JR factory.

From personal experience, JR soles are much more durable. They seem to “last longer” especially when comparing against manufacturer soles.

Most reputable cobblers recommend it for dress shoes. It might come down to preference and economics. Brian’s price difference for JR vs his house leather? $50.

Is JR worth $50 more? For you to decide.

 

[suitforcourt]

Its funny, but I came to shoes from a guitar and watch collecting background, where originality is everything. I just cant bring myself to alter a shoe, even if it could save my life. I have issues.....

So you don’t recraft shoes? When heel and sole are worn out, you just toss them out?

 

[friendlygoz]

So you don’t recraft shoes? When heel and sole are worn out, you just toss them out?

Its funny, but I came to shoes from a guitar and watch collecting background, where originality is everything. I just cant bring myself to alter a shoe, even if it could save my life. I have issues.....

If you are 9D and you toss your shoes when the original heels and soles wear out, toss them my way.

 

[Oshare]

Is snake skin a banned item in Japan?

Not sure about snake or other reptile skins, but I will definitely be more careful going forward.

On the US side, they have restrictions on animal skins or crocodile/caiman leather as well... so "snakeskin" probably hit a grey area somewhere:
https://travel.state.gov/content/tr...-travel/before-you-go/customs-and-import.html

On the note of what type of leather they are, I think @MJMcRibb and @mreams99 may be right about ostrich leg leather. I had always thought of ostrich as looking like this:

But it seems the leg actually gives this kind of texture, which matches the Florsheim loafers that went missing.

 

[Jiqea]

So you don’t recraft shoes? When heel and sole are worn out, you just toss them out?

I have so many shoes that I don't wear many out anymore. I had Loakes recraft my Doverdale boats this winter. I had them replace the original Dainite soles with leather. So I guess I am not consistent, but I was pissed that the Dainite had cracked and they were not truly vintage. When I do recraft I try to go as original as possible. I have thrifted shoes just to get the right vintage heel donor. I rush it on ice to my cobbler for the transplant.

 

[friendlygoz]

From what I’ve read, JR soles are superior to others because of the tanning process and materials used to produce them. Kirby Allison has a video on his visit to the JR factory.

From personal experience, JR soles are much more durable. They seem to “last longer” especially when comparing against manufacturer soles.

Most reputable cobblers recommend it for dress shoes. It might come down to preference and economics. Brian’s price difference for JR vs his house leather? $50.

Is JR worth $50 more? For you to decide.

Got it. I pay $20 for the vibrams; $10 for the cut Topy and sanding. I install and finish the Topy myself, which saves me $20/pair. This is a steal in Silicon Valley.

 

[M635Guy]

Those look great. I confess that I don’t understand the fuss about JR heels and soles. Is there something special about them? I put Topys on my shoes and my cobbler install Vibram rubber soles, which are super comfy and durable.

For me, it's got a almost rubber-like feel - extremely comfortable - and lasts 50% longer or more than most regular sole leathers. Considering the comfort/longevity and kicking the can that much farther on the "next" resole, I'm spending the $50 on anything I plan on wearing often. They aren't the only one that does something like that, but have the reputation for being the best. I've been mightily impressed with the longevity of the soles on my Grant Stone Ottawas - I'd consider using whoever they're sourcing from as well.

 

[davidVC]

Gents, a bit of shoe Appreciation for you tonight. I bought a pair of mystery shell PTB (Florsheim of course) from @davidVC 's watch list. The heels were shot so I sent them to Brian Gavigan in Buffalo NY to recraft. Here are some pics of the nearly completed project, and the original condition of the shoes:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/buffalo-cobbler-brian-gavigan-sole-man.642804/#post-9696943

I decided to change things up with a purple welt. Initially, Brian suggested white welt and a tan/light brown sole edge like @smfdoc 92604s. I decided against it. I wear these with suits, so the tan edge would make it too casual, relegating them to weekend and non-court days, which are few and far between.

Originally, I asked for JR soles and a topy. Brian advised against JR if I'm going to put on topy.

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Very nice.

I follow the Soleman on Instagram. His work is excellent.

https://www.instagram.com/solemanbuffalo/

 

[SonnyUte]

Gents, a bit of shoe Appreciation for you tonight. I bought a pair of mystery shell PTB (Florsheim of course) from @davidVC 's watch list. The heels were shot so I sent them to Brian Gavigan in Buffalo NY to recraft. Here are some pics of the nearly completed project, and the original condition of the shoes:

https://www.styleforum.net/threads/buffalo-cobbler-brian-gavigan-sole-man.642804/#post-9696943

I decided to change things up with a purple welt. Initially, Brian suggested white welt and a tan/light brown sole edge like @smfdoc 92604s. I decided against it. I wear these with suits, so the tan edge would make it too casual, relegating them to weekend and non-court days, which are few and far between.

Originally, I asked for JR soles and a topy. Brian advised against JR if I'm going to put on topy.

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Oh, no. Now I may have to get another pair of shoes.
I have never been a fan of black PTB’s. Maybe my time in the military set me against them, maybe I just think they look like security guard shoes.
And then a revelation! Colored contrasting/complementing welt stitching? Purple!!! Brown sole edges? What magic is this? Who knew such a thing was possible?
Those are stunning, sir.
Now to find a cobbler, nay a magician, capable of such feats.

 

[friendlygoz]

Selling these Florsheim Golden Harvest LWBs (93631) in 9C. PM me if you are interested. I’m a 9D. I took a chance on these to see if they’d work and they are just too narrow for my foot.

 

[mreams99]

Not sure about snake or other reptile skins, but I will definitely be more careful going forward.

On the US side, they have restrictions on animal skins or crocodile/caiman leather as well... so "snakeskin" probably hit a grey area somewhere:
https://travel.state.gov/content/tr...-travel/before-you-go/customs-and-import.html

On the note of what type of leather they are, I think @MJMcRibb and @mreams99 may be right about ostrich leg leather. I had always thought of ostrich as looking like this:
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But it seems the leg actually gives this kind of texture, which matches the Florsheim loafers that went missing.

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I believe that they think it’s crocodile/caiman. They should be told that it’s ostrich that was mistakenly identified as snakeskin.