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Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by smfdoc, Jul 14, 2016.

  1. friendlygoz

    friendlygoz Senior Member

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    Trying out light brown laces on my 93604s. Not bad... not great... have a good start to the week, fellas.
    15926CEA-2292-4524-AACB-0445AD04BC7E.jpeg
     

  2. kilowatts

    kilowatts Senior Member

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    Hi Suit:

    No, actually I had Bento Box "B" at my local Sushi joint. West coast Sushi, hard to beat.

    kilowatts
     

  3. Thomas Crown

    Thomas Crown Distinguished Member

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    Interesting point about Florsheim being uniquely positioned with it’s already well established desirability among vintage shoe buyers. I’m (like all of us here) very much an enthusiast of vintage Florsheim but find it curious how much less love other great vintage brands get in terms of resale value. Nettleton particularly stands out,a NOS Flor-shell would fetch far more than it’s (MUCH rarer,and equally well made) Nettleton counterpart. Perhaps to this end Nettletons recent resurrection as an expensive high end Belgian made shoe has no reason to utilize a non existent fanbase and go for buyers of a more well “heeled” set. Florsheim could certainly,at least in a limited run,appeal to their vintage fans,and,if the quality was there,convince some of us cheapskates to splurge a little on a sign of renewed quality.
     

  4. Thomas Crown

    Thomas Crown Distinguished Member

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    They look good with the sole edges-I recently sanded down the edges on my 92604s and have been using light blue laces
     

  5. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    I agree. 100%.

    How much would each of you be willing to spend, if Florsheim restarted say the 96204, 93605, and a few other shell models?

    I'd like to think I would go $500US a pair. Is that too little? Maybe I really am a cheapskate.
     

  6. Thomas Crown

    Thomas Crown Distinguished Member

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    Perhaps they could offer some calf options as well-Golden Harvest 2.0? 93602 Hand Stained Brown? These would probably be around $500 range—shell would be considerably more. New AE shell is around 650-700 I think,and the quality of vintage Florsheim totally smokes them
     

  7. JohnAAG

    JohnAAG Distinguished Member

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    Why some vintage shoemakers (and other brands) retain that "magic" while others of similar quality fall to the wayside? I have no idea. The only thing I can think of with Florsheim is name recognition. They're still around and pretty common. So when someone asks us what shoes we're wearing, we get to say, "Florsheim. BUT ... these are vintage Florsheim!" And then we launch into a lengthy explanation of how our shoes are sooo much better than what the company offers today. Cuz that happens all the time, right? :-D

    How Florsheim could do it? Personally, I think it could be a 4 step process:

    1. Start a sub-brand: Florsheim Vintage or Heritage or Signature Series. Whatever ...

    2. Work with a cool designer and go through their extensive back catalog of models. Make 2 to 3 limited edition versions of those old models each season, built to the exacting standards of the past, but with a slight twist. For example, I'm thinking I would LOVE to see a boot versions of the 93605s and 93606s! Or an updated shell version of the Guardsman!

    3. Market the hell outta them in Japan: work with cool stores to stock them; promote with IG influencers; get some pairs to prominent brand evangelists.

    4. Watch as cool people in the US start to drool over the models they can't get their hands on and read all the free press that appears on menswear websites.

    Price? $595 for the 93605s and 93606s. $750 for boots.

    Just some thoughts ... :rolleyes2:
     

  8. smfdoc

    smfdoc Distinguished Member

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    I think the cache of Florsheim is more than name recognition, which is considerable. Part of it is the nostalgia some of of the right age range have of visiting the Florsheim stores when we were young or knowing our fathers swore by Florsheim. I have no such memory or association with Nettleton. In fact, I had not heard of them or many of the other brands until I became interested in vintage shoes. And $595 for some 93605s would be a no brainer for many people. AE shell is now $695 and Alden is $756.
     

  9. kilowatts

    kilowatts Senior Member

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    Hi Guys:

    Speaking to the last few posts regarding Florsheim:

    I think it's more likely to be an unattainable dream of us vintage shoe guys. The place where it falls down is manufacturing. Ain't happening in the USA for reasons too obvious to mention and no-one including us, is interested in "Made in India" shoes. Remember, they tried it with Duckie Brown which sank like a lead balloon and while they make excellent shoes, Grant Stone only has a small on-line presence. Almost all the opinions I've seen on the new Dack's Made in Europe, have been snobby and derogatory so not a lot of support I'd say.

    I think I must be in a minority as I don't mind some of the Made in India Florsheims and also Grensons.

    Just my $0.02.

    kilowatts
     

  10. davidVC

    davidVC Senior Member

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    Modern Florsheim did try to go upscale with the Duckie Brown line a number of years ago. In general, they were better than the other lines. And they also made Shell Cordovan long wings. But they weren't as good as the old Imperials.

    I assume all the old suppliers, tools, machines, processes and skilled workers are gone. So it would be expensive to replicate many of the old Imperial models.

    I doubt there is a big market for Imperial long wings. At one point, they were hugely popular. One guy told me that everyone wore 92604 at the Pentagon in 60s or 70s. Not sure how true that is but I don't see that happening again.

    But if Kanye West wore a pair, who knows.
     

  11. kilowatts

    kilowatts Senior Member

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    Hi Guys:

    These are the Aldens I liberated from the VV graveyard yesterday. Post cleanup.

    kilowatts

    IMG_1335.JPG IMG_1336.JPG
     

  12. kilowatts

    kilowatts Senior Member

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    I'm pretty sure Michael Jackson wore Florsheim slip-ons for the moonwalk!
     

  13. suitforcourt

    suitforcourt Distinguished Member

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    True vintage. Dacks made by Cheaney. I bought these right after their bankruptcy.

    The revived Matthew Dacks still sells this model, but only in black and oxblood, and only in polished book binder.

    Sad. I really like this pair. The walnut calf is pretty versatile.

    7174AA90-16E8-4DF5-8F34-A96465D15171.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2019 at 2:08 PM

  14. kilowatts

    kilowatts Senior Member

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  15. eTrojan

    eTrojan Senior Member

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    EXERCISING DISCIPLINE:

    There are currently two pairs of NOS vintage shoes being sold on eBay in my obscure size. Every day, I'm tempted to buy them because how often do you find NOS vintage shoes?

    But then I look at them and find that I don't think they're particularly attractive (though you may). They don't make me want to find a reason to wear them, much less buy them. So every day my discipline is tested. Every. Single. Day.

    SHOE 1:

    ALLEN EDMONDS "BELGIUM" #45689 OXBLOOD/BURGUNDY LEATHER PLAIN TOE OXFORDS (13A)
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/ALLEN-EDMO...DY-LEATHER-PLAIN-TOE-OXFORDS-13A/352590147700
    • Made in 1980
    • Polished Cobbler
    • I don't love the style, and have limited need for Polished Cobbler in Los Angeles.
    • It's on the "Ethan" last (a 4 last?), which is the same as the Bagley, Bond Street, Polo, Madison and Globetrotter. No idea how this fits. I wore my calfskin Sheltons (a 1 last?) over the weekend and discovered that I really don't like that last much at all. Not enthused about taking another stab at a new last.
    • Overall response to the shoe? Meh. I made a half-hearted offer that was almost immediately rejected. Oh well; I tried.

    SHOE 2:

    Vintage 1960s Bostonian ‘Foil’ Brown Men’s Dress Shoes Size 13 A - Unworn!
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-19...n-s-Dress-Shoes-Size-13-A-Unworn/273604362703
    • Hmmm...these look a little like the AE Bedfords I bought back in September. In NOS condition. That are still in the box in NOS condition. Evidently, it's not a style that drives me to wear it -- not just regularly, but at all.
    • While they are described as '60s, the logo design on the box and insole scream 1980s to me.
    • MiUSA Bostonian is a fine shoe. I just don't think this is a shoe I would get much use out of it
    • It also reminds me a little of the Crosby Square split toe I bought a couple years back. CG. Bad fit. Makes me a little sad.

    The good news is that those Alden 975 shell cordovan longwings showed up on Friday. Skins are in pretty good condition, but they're going to take a lot of buffing to get any kind of gloss going.
     

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