Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[smfdoc]

Hey all, I’ve enjoyed reading this thread but this is my first post to it. I wanted to consult the collective wisdom about care for a pair of NOS Cheaneys. Should I do anything besides slather on a few coats of conditioner and brush/buff before wearing? Would you do anything to the interior? The soles?

So far I have gingerly slipped a foot into one of them… And found it fits well, the leather insole feels deep, and the double sole feels very, very stiff!

They seem quite clean, even the partial cloth lining looks spotless. I don’t know what sort of leather these are made from, but it has a faint shoe-polish-y greasiness to it.

Looking forward to taking these out in the world—

Thanks for any suggestions

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Spoiler: More pics

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Welcome to the thread! Yep, several applications of conditioner. Need to make sure they are not dried out before wearing. I personally also condition the sole.

 

[2Deuce2]

Of course! Probably be in Tokyo around the end of March or April, that’s the sense I’m getting from my better half. She works weekdays in Roppongi Hills when we’re there so I have days free to check out neighborhoods like Koenji, Daikanyama, Harajuku etc.

For the benefit of our thread bros who may not be familiar with the Japanese language or slang, here is one very over the top description of what Oshare and I are talking about. Apologies for the writer’s prose, but it is entertaining.
https://playboyinjapan.com/how-to-be-a-choi-waru-oyaji-in-japan/

And here I was thinking you were a Chief Warrant Officer!

 

[Lmrjfud]

And here I was thinking you were a Chief Warrant Officer!

Yeah, me too! But then again, I've worked for the navy for 32 years, so I might be biased toward military abbreviations.

 

[CWOyaji]

And here I was thinking you were a Chief Warrant Officer!

Never served, but this is the bible of the Choi Waru Oyaji aficionados in Japan in case anyone wants to have a look. At the pictures anyway, the text is all in Japanese. https://www.leon.jp

Spoiler: Please allow me a Japanese Menswear flip brag

This happened to sell yesterday, so since we're on the subject of Japan, please indulge me. Was a nice thing to wake up to. (Paid $10)

 

[2Deuce2]

Nope, never served but this is the bible of the Choi Waru Oyaji aficionados in Japan, in case anyone wants to have a look. At the pictures anyway, the text is all Japanese. https://www.leon.jp

That’s awesome!

 

[friendlygoz]

Do any of you go in your closet at the end of the day and visit with your vintage shoe one by one? I’m asking for a friend...

 

[CWOyaji]

Do any of you go in your closet at the end of the day and visit with your vintage shoe one by one? I’m asking for a friend...

I moved the shoes into my home office (formerly my youngest son's bedroom) which saves some steps. In case your friend is looking for alternatives. Nice to be an empty-nester!

 

[madhat]

Never served, but this is the bible of the Choi Waru Oyaji aficionados in Japan in case anyone wants to have a look. At the pictures anyway, the text is all in Japanese. https://www.leon.jp

Spoiler: Please allow me a Japanese Menswear flip brag

This happened to sell yesterday, so since we're on the subject of Japan, please indulge me. Was a nice thing to wake up to. (Paid $10)

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I quite like that. Not $450 like, but still like.

 

[Oshare]

The Bostonian shell cordovan shortwings arrived today. Went over the insides with alcohol, brushed the outers, a few rounds of Bick 4 (I also rub Bick 4 into the soles), brushing and light buffing for now. Pleased overall. Typical well-made vintage shoes.

The right shoe appears to have had a bit of a mishap, though. The toe box was slightly caved in at the tip, which I popped back out by pushing on the inside, but if you look at it really closely you can see it's a bit uneven. The heel also seems to have been subjected to some sort of bump or pressure because the sole leather is actually pushed in and up a bit. Only noticeable if you look carefully, though.

The vamps also have darkened micro-creasing lines. I tried the Bick 4 and toothbrush cleaning, but it doesn't seem like there is any gunk to lift out. I guess these creases just darkened naturally?

 

[CWOyaji]

A bit of an impulse buy, but last night I was the sole bidder on a pair of Crown Windsor Bostonian shortwing balmorals in shell cordovan, model #23314. Not quite a steal, but for Japan they weren't bad at $120. They seem to be in good condition, so hopefully they will become a nice addition to my shell collection.

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Here are my ET Wrights; they're so much like yours that I wonder if Wright made shoes for Bostonian, or vice versa. I think the AP stamp stands for "Arch Protector", a marketing angle they promoted back then as a remedy for fallen arches.

 

[Oshare]

Here are my ET Wrights; they're so much like yours. I wonder if Wright made shoes for Bostonian, or vice versa. I think the AP stamp stands for "Arch Protector", a marketing angle they promoted back then as a remedy for fallen arches.
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@CWOyaji They are indeed very similar, even down to the medallions! One of the only differences I can spot, albeit a rather large difference, is how closely the soles are trimmed on the ET Wrights. The welt is hardly visible, giving your shoes a much sleeker appearance.

 

[CWOyaji]

@CWOyaji They are indeed very similar, even down to the medallions! One of the only differences I can spot, albeit a rather large difference, is how closely the soles are trimmed on the ET Wrights. The welt is hardly visible, giving your shoes a much sleeker appearance.

I think yours have a double oak sole, too. Like the AE Cambridges I replaced with these. Those will probably last a long time. I may go that route when the day comes to have mine resoled.

 

[Shoonoob]

Do any of you go in your closet at the end of the day and visit with your vintage shoe one by one? I’m asking for a friend...

I put motion sensor lights next to my shoe racks so every time I walk into the closet they light up. I generally only visit with them in the evening to see who wants to go out the next day. The '67 Varsity Florsheims were complaining tonight because they have not been out in months. They got some brushing and are excited to go to work tomorrow.

 

[suitforcourt]

Hi gents, I picked up a pair of Florsheim v-cleat 97625 that don’t fit me. Size is 9.5D but fit like 9D. Tighter vamp than 93602 or 92604.

Shoes in pristine condition - no tears, rips, or scratches on body. Heels and soles definitely shoe wear.

Just want to recover my costs. $100US plus shipping. PM me if interested.

 

[suitforcourt]

To: Florsheim Family,

Today, I present to you a pair of Florsheim that you have forgotten about. These are Canadian made LWBs, from the John McHale factory in London Ontario. These were not only made to last, but are comfortable, stylish, and very sought after by enthusiasts.

A few members in this thread own Canadian made Florsheim and they love them like chicken wings and beer. Or nachos and pop. Or fries and gravy.

I am not a businessman and will never understand why you shut down the US and Canadian factories as they produced high quality men's footwear. I'm sure the costs of operating them cut into your profits and there are obviously cheaper ways of maintaining the bottom line.

Don't take my word that your vintage shoes are appreciated and longed for. Check out our posts this week. And even scroll through the 1000+ pages in this thread. Vintage Florsheim is by far, one of the most popular vintage brands. It should tell you something.

Best,
SFC