view on Alden long wingtips - calfskin or cordovan?

[Son Of Saphir]



Cordovan is about $150 more.  Is this extra $$ worth it in terms of durability ?

Thanks

Sometimes it is,
other time it is not.
Goodyear construction can be big problem after three resole and gemming failure is common,
so it not uncommon for shell upper to outlast construction.
Best not to buy shell for durable shoe reason,
best buy hand welt construction for durable shoe and have it repaired by skilled craftsmen,
or buy quality blake rapid construction shoe because bonwelt more easy to replace than welt on Alden.
Advice in many other post here is very bad.

 

[ChiliPalmer]



Thanks for the useful advice and opinions.

The color #8 looks very nice.  I can certainly do that, too, as I work in a business casual environment.  A couple questions:

(1)  How do you think of the Black cordovan versus the #8 cordovan?  Different uses, looks?  I have become a fan of the Thom Browne look and figured I needed a black longwing but no need to be too doctrinaire.

(2)  I live in NYC.  Any thoughts on where to shop for Alden?  I have heard the Alden store near Grand Central doesnt always have good customer service.  

Thanks again. 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/294843/nib-bbbf-thom-browne-black-shell-cordovan-longwings-9-5d/0_100

 

[Ennius]

http://www.styleforum.net/t/294843/nib-bbbf-thom-browne-black-shell-cordovan-longwings-9-5d/0_100

thanks for the lead but I am 10.5 E, alas.

any suggestions on decent stores to buy Alden in NYC??

 

[Psyched2]

Alden on Madison would probably have the largest selection of sizes, especially if you go wider. Moulded Shoes and Citi Shoes are other options. Leffot carries Alden but I am not sure if Steven carries them in E.

If you have yet to try the Barrie last, I would definitely get fitted especially for the first pair.

Regarding the calf vs. shell, I think it's a matter of preference. Most of my smart shoes are calf but all my LWB are shell (from Alden). Personally I think LWBs look sharp either in calf (especially in pebble) or shell. I hvae black but somehow picked up ravello, cigar, and whiskey for the next ones. Number 8 is my final (and most anticipated) pair for my set.

 

[Psyched2]

Goodyear construction can be big problem after three resole and gemming failure is common,
so it not uncommon for shell upper to outlast construction.

I have read various discussion about this issue (much from DWF) but from what I surmise, the "gemming" or losing shape is primarily an issue when the original last is not used for the resole. So, I assume that by having them resoled using the original last (basically by Alden themselves), this would alleviate this "gemming" problem?

In regards to the 3 resole limit, this is pretty much expected from GY shoes in general. Honestly, especially with double-soled shoes, I have yet to go past 2 resoles on any of my shoes since I have a decent rotation.

 

[chogall]

The black cordovan shoes I have seen have not had the kind of shine I think black shoes should have (the "spit and polish" kind), so I think cordovan is better suited for non-black shoes.

Spit shine your LWB? What's next? Wearing pocket square on your denim jackets?

Sometimes it is,
other time it is not.
Goodyear construction can be big problem after three resole and gemming failure is common,
so it not uncommon for shell upper to outlast construction.
Best not to buy shell for durable shoe reason,
best buy hand welt construction for durable shoe and have it repaired by skilled craftsmen,
or buy quality blake rapid construction shoe because bonwelt more easy to replace than welt on Alden.
Advice in many other post here is very bad.

+1

 

[mcbrown]



thanks for the lead but I am 10.5 E, alas.

any suggestions on decent stores to buy Alden in NYC??

You may not need an E width in this particular shoe, unless you are saying you have tried it on and know you need a 10.5E. I wear a 10.5E in some of the narrower-lasted Alden shoes, but a 10D in their LWB's and other Barrie-lasted Aldens.

I am a happy customer of Alden/Madison, FWIW.

 

[JayJay]

I prefer shell in #8.

 

[Ennius]

thanks for all the comments and info.

Looks like I am off to the Madison Alden store for the #8 longwings and let them tell me what my right sizing is.

 

[reggieburris]

Although this post is old, I wanted to chime in. I have 4 pairs of Alden shell cordovan (3 #8 and 1 black) and 4 pairs of Alden calfskin shoes. All of them are of equal quality. I personally cannot shine the shells any better than the calfskins but my shoeshine guys can. It takes them a short time to shine the shells and the shine last much longer. Overall Alden shoes are a bit bulkier and haven't changed much in decades but they are well built throwbacks. I love my AEs and Crockett & Jones but my Alden's are special.