Vienna Holtzgenagelt

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by luk-cha

Panda Bears in HK could develop and liking for them too!

HK pandas seem to have a refined taste and an excellent sense for style.

 

[fritzl]

This is what my fuss is all about.

Maker: Maftei
Model: Slatin Pasha with Goyserer welt, holzgenagelt

One of my favourites. Fully bespoke. The trees are vintage(thrifted). Did not like the spring loaded, which have been their standard at that time. Will upgrade to their fancy stuff, soon.

 

[fritzl]

Welt and heel:

 

[fritzl]

Maker: Maftei
Model: Norweger, Nile perch, holzgenagelt

Just in case, I took them out of the rotation, with a one day wear.

 

[fritzl]

Sole and heel:

 

[fritzl]

Voilá

 

[dopey]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to photograph and post those. I like the lasts, generally and the construction is interesting, but will take some time for me to look at more carefully.

I especially like the design of the perch shoe, though exotics are not for me.

Do the woven shoes really offer much benefit in terms of coolness for summer given that they are lined, or is the woven pattern more a matter of style?

 

[speedster.8]

Originally Posted by dopey

Thank you for taking the time and effort to photograph and post those. I like the lasts, generally and the construction is interesting, but will take some time for me to look at more carefully. I especially like the design of the perch shoe, though exotics are not for me.
+1 Stunning construction on the Nile perch, Im sure the leather is much nicer live

I actually communicated with Maftei to day, as i will be in Frankfurt in roughly a month and Berlin in aprox 2. I wanted to know if they had any shoes shown. And I got some quotes, they do hand sewn welted sole for 100€ more. What would you say are the benefits of either

As for the "heel shots" Im more facinated by them on a seamless

Thanks Speed

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by dopey

Do the woven shoes really offer much benefit in terms of coolness for summer given that they are lined, or is the woven pattern more a matter of style?

Dopey, the woven leather is applied to a fleece. That would made me think it has to be lined. There are some decisions I always leave to the craftsman. But, I will do a research, if you can make them without/partial or a different lining.

The "Slatin Pasha" is a style invented by Rudolf Carl von Slatin who used the Salzkammergut as his summer resort. It is a reminiscent to him and I can wear them with the traditional Lederhosen

.

Ready for mor pictures?

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by speedster.8

+1

Stunning construction on the Nile perch, Im sure the leather is much nicer live

I actually communicated with Maftei to day, as i will be in Frankfurt in roughly a month and Berlin in aprox 2. I wanted to know if they had any shoes shown.

And I got some quotes, they do hand sewn welted sole for 100€ more.
What would you say are the benefits of either

As for the "heel shots" Im more facinated by them on a seamless

Thanks

Speed

It is a bit nicer

I am a dedicated "lover" of holzgenagelt. I would say it is a personal preference. Some say the gyw, if we talk bespoke, is a bit more flexible.

Don't get me wrong speed, but you can discuss this topic for hours. You cannot go wrong with either. Maftei is sewing the first layer of the sole(experts please don't kill me for the amateurish description) to the upper and then apply the holzgenagelt.

Sorry speed, I do not have seamless shoes yet.

 

[fritzl]

Originally Posted by dopey

Do the woven shoes really offer much benefit in terms of coolness for summer given that they are lined,

Ok, just received an answer.

As said, the woven leather is applied to a fleece and needs to be lined, at least partial.

There is one maker, do not know the name yet, who uses handwoven leather and "skips" the lining. He does not sell it, neither tells, where it is from.

 

[the.chikor]

Thank you for taking the time and effort to photograph and post those. I like the lasts, generally and the construction is interesting, but will take some time for me to look at more carefully.

Dopey,
The beauty with Maftei is that they will do whatever you want! If you sort of or kind of like a last, you can show them a picture as a base, and then tell them exaclty what you want to have it modified. Words of wisdom with Maftei-tell them exactly what you are looking for in a last, i.e., how rounded on inseam and outseam, what specifics you want in the footbed-support mid-plantar region or built up arch, they will have no problem doing this and doing a damned good job, as compared to some other makers that I have dealt with. But, don't be bashful or shy, tell them or show them exactly what you want and they will do it to the letter.

IF you notice that Begnal Stripe mentioned earlier on this posting that he was surprised to see that Maftei had gotten away from their traditional Vienna "potato" last were the words that he used. Well, he is right, in my opinion.

Maftei does use a more of a traditional Viennese "potato" style last (for the most convenient word available). But, keep in mind, like Mr. and Mrs. Maftei explained to me three days ago, in Vienna, social norms dictate this sort of last as popular and socially acceptable. Thus, Maftei must produce this style of last. However, this does not mean that Maftei does not or can not produce any other type of last that you want. They like producing rounded waists for me, but they said that no one in Vienna would wear them if they produced them on a regular basis. Klemann told something similar when I asked him to produce a rounded waist for my shoes.

The point is, Maftei is not limited to what you see them ordinarily produce. They will make you whatever you want and not stop until you are satisfied. This is one of the reasons that they make shoes so cheap, compared to competitors at around $2K to $2.5K Euro Dollars. If you do not like the way the shoe came out, they have no problems starting over from scratch. They did this for me when I created my own design and asked Lucian to make it. When completed, I did not like the look, and Lucian recreated the shoes with my requested changes. It came out great in my opinion. I will post it this weekend.

 

[speedster.8]

Excellent I for one will look forward to that
.
Speed

 

[luk-cha]

Originally Posted by speedster.8

Excellent I for one will look forward to that
.
Speed

+1

 

[dopey]

Thank you, gentlemen, for the responses.